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vacuum line under supercharger snout keeps popping off

khornocker

New member
Hello, I just started having an issue with the vacuum line under the supercharger snout popping off under hard acceleration.
it happened this morning, I had to slow down to about 15 or 20 mph for the car in front of me to turn off the road, I then got on the gas pretty hard and about a second or two later the car hesitated pretty hard then the engine stopped. the CEL came on with a p0068 code (reduced engine power). I opened the hood and sure enough the vacuum line had came off. This also happen two days ago in the same situation.

Ant thoughts?

I think the traction control might have activated right before this happened causing the hesitation and surge.

My car is a 2005 comp g with a 3.4 pulley and stock everything else.
 


for starters get that 3.4 pulley off before you blow your engine up.

you need a new T under the snout, the factory one is cracked. you can make one out of vac line and a small vacuum T. advance auto sells the best little T's you will find too.

you can buy new vac line, or just buy 6 inches worth and make a T out of it and push the hard lines into the new vac line T.

limjob11.jpg
 
Lol, I have a hell of a time with mine cracking and popping off and splitting too. I can't seem to find the proper size in stock so it's always a little too big or a little too small. I use wire ties to keep that lower one on but after about 6 months all the lines are toast.

Jeff
 
those lines and t's are 5 years old now, maybe 6. took them off that engine with the same lines went on the new engine i installed.
 
Seconded on the 3.4 pulley. If you want to keep it, get some aftermarket headers.

I'm getting ready to order headers, an intake and overkill pcm if I can get ahold of the guy.

It makes sense that the T fitting is cracked because it slides back on way too easy. I'll head to the parts store. Thanks a bunch for the help everybody.
 


a gen 5 car needs an intercooler or cam to run a 3.4 pulley. headers will not be enough. I wonder if its possible for too much boost to pop that vacuum line off.
 
I'm getting ready to order headers, an intake and overkill pcm if I can get ahold of the guy.

It makes sense that the T fitting is cracked because it slides back on way too easy. I'll head to the parts store. Thanks a bunch for the help everybody.
Still not enough to run a 3.4 knock free. Order a mps system and grab either a stock 3.8 or a 3.6 pulley to run after you do headers etc. 3.4 is cam/ic area
 
Still not enough to run a 3.4 knock free. Order a mps system and grab either a stock 3.8 or a 3.6 pulley to run after you do headers etc. 3.4 is cam/ic area

I own 2 GTP's a 98 and an 04. and i see kr on my 04 completely stock. i couldn't imagine the kr this car is experiencing with a 3.4 on a GEN V.
 


I'm getting ready to order headers, an intake and overkill pcm if I can get ahold of the guy.

It makes sense that the T fitting is cracked because it slides back on way too easy. I'll head to the parts store. Thanks a bunch for the help everybody.

I got one from him a month or two ago. He's around. Highly recommend his pcm. It's a completely different car.
 
I got one from him a month or two ago. He's around. Highly recommend his pcm. It's a completely different car.

ive sent him a few emails but haven't gotten a reply yet. how did the core charge work? did you send him your stock ecu after you received the overkill one? how fast did you have your deposit back.
 


Yep send yours back and he will get you back the money. We did everything through PayPal. Not sure you can go wrong with either Reptile or Overkill. I believe with Reptile you need to do a case learn.
 
How does this car not have holes in at least one piston.

Because I'm pretty easy on this car. I have 0 KR when driving to work at 70 mph. I start to see about 3 degrees of KR when speeding up on an on ramp. But my kids are in this car with me so I'm not driving hard.
 
Lol, I have a hell of a time with mine cracking and popping off and splitting too. I can't seem to find the proper size in stock so it's always a little too big or a little too small. I use wire ties to keep that lower one on but after about 6 months all the lines are toast.

Jeff

sorry to zombie this thread back to life but what is the proper size T's and lines for our cars? ....I got tired of them getting all cooked as well and got some brass lines outta pepboys and a bigger line ....but after a while now I'm like is this shyt to big ??? my bypass doesn't even move no more lol ..but I was more so thinking this was because my SC blades have no coating
 
sorry to zombie this thread back to life but what is the proper size T's and lines for our cars? ....I got tired of them getting all cooked as well and got some brass lines outta pepboys and a bigger line ....but after a while now I'm like is this shyt to big ??? my bypass doesn't even move no more lol ..but I was more so thinking this was because my SC blades have no coating

Scotty said that the best T's are sold at Advanced auto, hes right. and then just by like 3 feet of the corresponding vac hose. Also howd you manage to post exactly 1 year after the last post? lol
 
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