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Two Problems: Rusted Radiator and No AC

S

SlyBlackDragon

New member
I purchased a '97 GTP Sedan a months ago with about 194K miles. I kept getting an intermittent "low coolant light" last week (though it wasn't running hot). I popped the overflow bottle open to find it full of brown "gunk". I drained to coolant system and could see from looking down the top of the radiator with a light that the radiator is badly rusted. I flushed the coolant system completely twice in both directions and used Preston Coolant cleaner. I did eventually get the flush water to run clean in both directions for over 10 minutes, but upon inspection the radiator still looks to be in a pretty bad way. I priced a few replacement radiators, and while not expensive, I am concerned that the rust may have affected the water pump, hoses, and heater core as well. Since the flush, the engine is running even cooler that before and my heat works better than ever, so I am not sure if I need to panic and drop a lot of time and money just yet. Suggestions?

Also, I noticed after the flush that I no longer have AC. When performing the flush, I ran the heater on high as per the instructions, and now it only blows heat. If I turn the control on the dash to cold, the air blowing in through the vents never changes. I don't think it is low on freon or anything, because it isn't "luke-warm" outside air, but hot heat as if I still had it set to the max heat setting. I am assuming the switch just not longer works. What parts do I need to replaces, and how do I go about doing so?
 


radiators don't rust, they are made of aluminum and plastic. what you most likely saw was dex sludge in there and flushing it was a good idea.

as for the a/c. is the a/c compressor clutch turning on?

if it is, then you want to check your actuators under the dash on both side of the center console. under the radio.
 
I'm just getting into working on my own cars, so pardon my ignorance, but is there a write up or a link to some pictures of how to check the actuators and how to get to them?

Also, even if it is Dexcool sludge (the previous owner did switch to green), my flushing did not remove the caked on stuff, just the loose stuff. Am I still looking at replacing the whole cooling system, or should I just keep an eye on it and let it go as long as it's working and not overheating?
 
G2 99 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR | eBay this is what it looks like, if you remove the glove box and look to the left/side of the center console area, use a flash light, you will see it, now that round part with the hole in it, if your is working you will see it move when you change from hot to cold or cold to hot, it can take up to a minute for it to fully move. oh that part will spin. and you could just put your finger on it too to feel it turning.

now if it not moving and all your fuses are good, remove it and turn the knob by hand to see if you are getting hot and cold manually.


and the car needs to be running and hot/warmed up when you do this.
 


I will have to try that out, though with it being in the 20's this weekend I'm not that motivated to tear my interior apart :th_laugh-lol3:

Maybe tomorrow I will try and tackle my intermittent loss of power steering and squeeky belt. So many things I want to do to this car, so little money :(
 
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