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Turbo L36 Volvo 240

outonthetiles

New member
I figure its about time to start a build thread on this car. It's a '90 240 DL sedan. Originally the car was a 2.3 I4 5 speed that I turbo'd. I was running ~14lbs of boost through it and making probably in the neighborhood of 200whp. The engine and trans had high mileage, and I was at about the maximum that setup could handle. Instead of building the engine and doing a T5 swap, I decided to do a l36/4l60e swap as I had a '97 Camaro donor car.

Taking the b230 out and fitting the l36
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Modding the crossmember for oil pan clearance
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Fabbing engine mounts. Bushings used are spare poly torque rod bushings for a 240. Was able to use slightly modified Camaro engine brackets.
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Stock 240 trans crossmember modded slightly to accept the 4l60e.
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Engine supported entirely by engine and trans crossmember.
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Fabbing the turbo manifolds. Used the flanges and runners from two rear w-body manifolds. Re-clocked the runners on the flange and fab'd "collector" pipes.
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Fabbing crossover pipe and collector.
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Turbo and intercooler mounted. Beginning IC plumbing.
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Fabbing downpipe.
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Feed and return lines ran for turbo.
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Rad fan mounted.
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Fuse box installed in glove box and wired up.
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As it sits right now:
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I'm getting really close. I've had it running a few times but with a bad misfire. After many hours of diagnosis I think I have narrowed it down to a bad PCM. I ordered a '98 Camaro PCM and will be re-pinning the PCM connectors to convert from 97-98.

So at this point (9-6-15) here's what I have left:

-Re-Pin PCM
-Get driveshaft from Bick & Heintz and install that
-Mount shifter
-Figure out something for a coolant reservoir
-Weld on BOV flange
-Weld up a screamer pipe for the WG
-Wire gauges
-Apply heat protection in several areas
-TUNE
 
This project will really have folks scratching their heads. It ought to be loads of fun, I like it. What a sleeper!
 


Ugh that sucks. Making everything fit was way too easy. Brake booster, steering shaft, etc... were all able to stay stock. Would have had to make a custom steering shaft if I left it N/A, but with the manifolds pointing forward there is no issue. Didn't have to touch the trans tunnel at all.
 
# 5 primary is within 5/8ths inch of the steering gearbox and within 1" of the master cylinder.

my steering draglink psses right by my "low profile" drain plug. wheels have to be at full lock for LOF lol

im at the point i may just junk it and use all the parts on the 442
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quick question...how strong is the rearend stuffs? live axle/irs?

my reasearch found that my 7.1" ring gear axle is a damn toothpick, esp with Tq (which 3800's have in spades...)
nothing stateside is a boltin swappable prospect.
only real option is a toyota bracket set and a ford 8.8 or the jeep narrowtrack dana 44 under my shelves....

then there's the lovely knowledge that toyota in their infinite wisdom...put smaller brakes on my 3,000lb wagon, than they did the 2000lb hatchback.

if this damn thing didnt look like a miniture GN wagon if you squint just right...id have taken a baseball bat to it years ago
 
Rear end is a Dana 30 with a Volvo specific ring and pinion (live axle). The spider gears seem to be the weak point, but trutracks are available for Dana 30's and eliminate that failure point.

Brakes are about best you are going to get under 14's. 4 puck front, 2 puck rear calipers from the factory.

The car has been and will continue to be my winter beater/ year round daily. I don't plan on pushing the limits of this setup until I the spring when I have something else to drive if I break it.
 


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