• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Trying to think big!!!

ajoliver2010

New member
Hey guys! I have a dream about having the perfect system as far as deep bass and loud highs. Now hear me out first....i want to attempt to put in 8 inch speakers on the doors...and the rear deck. And i need to do some research on 2 12" subs and a mono amp. The problem is i cant seem to find a good site to order from. Sonicelectronix has ok stuff, and idk what the big deal is about parts express ( its pretty much a waste of time to me imo). Advice is needed. Thanks !
 


a good quality SINGLE 12 or 15" Dual subs are so 20 years ago. FI is nice HDC3's are good to. Budget is the limit
 
i like most products from this site:

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/


there's also FI, digital designs, tantric sounds, DC sound lab, american bass, ...I'm not even going to attempt to list all of the options because it would take forever.

First thing I would do is set your budget for your total system (speaker, amps, subs, wiring, extra batts, alts..etc.) then we can start somewhere
 


MTX Jackhammers FTW!!! seriously!!! I had 2 JH4512's in a WestCoastCustoms/ Orion ban pass box powered by a 1200 watt class-D amp ran a Sony GT-250 head unit and a Sherwood 240 watt for my 2 Kenwood 3-way 6*9s that included a 2.5 in tweeter and a .5 in ribbon tweeter and my 2 front speakers were 3.5 in Kenwood 3-way with a 1in. tweet and another .5 ribbon tweeter. By far the best setup I've ever heard and I know everyone says that but i have over 300 people that will vouch for that.

:edit forgot to add the Kenwood crossover


I'm not so sure about the 8s in the doors, never been a fan of them.

step 1 find a head unit with a decent sound processor

step 2 build your mid and highs i suggest polks in the doors and deck (original size) and dynomat
doors http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB...=UTF8&qid=1390268850&sr=8-3&keywords=polk+6x9
deck http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA...=UTF8&qid=1390268850&sr=8-2&keywords=polk+6x9

step 3 find the subs that you like if you want deep sound look at Memphis or MTX

step 4 have a box built specifically to the needs of the subs

step 5 find an amp that will have the ability to supply the subs with the power they can put out

step 6 THE MOST IMPORTANT have good grounds and have a adequate power supply I.E. use a capacitor if necessary and be sure your alternator can keep up.


i build professional stereos, i could help you out just tell me what your specific goals are and i will help taylor a system to you.

For the record I do not build crap that ends up having blown door speakers nothing but subs with a "horn" in the grill to simulate a "great" system that is stupid as h3LL and i hope that tend dies!
 
Yes i would like to hear people when we're out the car. The car is my office and i want it loud lol. And as far as subs...i like the subs that has that ' wax ring ' look to it. I was looking at some Earthquake Sounds
 
Let the elaboration begin!

Anything that has at the minimum of 2 voice coils can typically handle lower bass and produce it cleaner. If you could get a 2 1/2 voice coils you would have more potential. the voice coils are what produce the sound, a positive current forces the coil to move away from the over sized magnet and produces a frequency the faster the speaker's ability to move the quicker the response to changes in tone. If the speaker cannot produce the frequency fast enough the next note will be distorted.

Also a big part in producing audible frequencies is the box the subs are in!

Ported boxes- Are exactly what it states, it has ports built in to the box to allow the change in air pressure easier. this can be a good thing but keep in mind you can over extend the subs easier as well.
The depth of the port has more to do with how wide and deep the sound will be. < no joking fellas I know you can't resist>
To be noted this takes less power to produce sound since there isn't any resistance to the speaker in the way of physical movement

Sealed boxes- Also as it states the air is sealed inside the box to allow for the subs to compress the air, thus making it easier to rebound back and be ready for the next note since it is not as free floating.
this creates a more crisp and accurate frequencies. Keep in mind that it will need more power to run the speaker but a better end result depending on the application. This box needs to be within the specifications of the sub's air space recommendations in order to receive the maximum potential from the speaker.

Band Pass boxes- This is a more complicated box, it has a sealed side and a ported side. This is like having the best of both worlds, you have the air compression that helps the speakers from over extending and the ported side to help the frequencies travel easier. There are drawbacks as well since you have both options you have an overall larger box.
The key here is once again the size of the sealed side and the depth and width of the ports. I do not suggest the Dual Audio's band pass box, the Plexiglas is purely for show it is less than an 1/16th inch thick. 1/8th inch- 3/16ths inch should be plenty. I will also suggest that you use coarse thread screws to hold the Plexiglas in place.

For a grand prix I would suggest a sealed or band pass box measured for the speakers you want to use. if you go with ported any ways you should find a way to run ports on the rear deck to help the sound travel to the cabin area and do not over power the speakers in the trunk.

ported boxes are better for SUV's, Hatchbacks and Wagons because they share the air space.
band pass boxes also work very well in these vehicles but also in sealed trunk spaces as well.
Sealed boxes are best for... you guessed it Sealed cargo areas
 


wax ring, wtmf. sounding like a higschooler.

ya jackhammers for music that works well!

I was once young and indestructible. He may understand when he's old like me and has trouble picking out voices in a crowd. Or he's living with a constant ringing in his ears.

To each his own.
 
Yes i would like to hear people when we're out the car. The car is my office and i want it loud lol. And as far as subs...i like the subs that has that ' wax ring ' look to it. I was looking at some Earthquake Sounds

THIS IS NOT WHAT I DO! If you just want everyone to hear it the why build it? You will thank me later if you decide to do a quality unit. the setup I fore mentioned was loud as H3LL but unless you were 1/2 a mile away you couldn't hear the Bass. I could have my blazer at the max volume and the gain turned all the way up on the amp and you could stand beside my tuck and not hear but a few spoken words from the song it was so quiet. If I rolled the windows down a crack you could feel your hair vibrate and your voice change with the pitch of the bass. Good quality will always win respect and you will love the systems ability to handle any note you ask for.

I had people ask me all the time--
"is this a remix or something?"
Me- "No? Why do you ask?"
"I've never heard this version."
Me- "Yes you have, We have the same CD."
"No, this is different."
Me- "No, you just haven't been able to hear all of the music"
"You're full of sh*t, this isn't the same"
Me- I turn it up so I don't have to talk to them anymore. GF hated that one.
 
Let the elaboration begin!

Anything that has at the minimum of 2 voice coils can typically handle lower bass and produce it cleaner. If you could get a 2 1/2 voice coils you would have more potential. the voice coils are what produce the sound, a positive current forces the coil to move away from the over sized magnet and produces a frequency the faster the speaker's ability to move the quicker the response to changes in tone. If the speaker cannot produce the frequency fast enough the next note will be distorted.

Also a big part in producing audible frequencies is the box the subs are in!

Ported boxes- Are exactly what it states, it has ports built in to the box to allow the change in air pressure easier. this can be a good thing but keep in mind you can over extend the subs easier as well.
The depth of the port has more to do with how wide and deep the sound will be. < no joking fellas I know you can't resist>
To be noted this takes less power to produce sound since there isn't any resistance to the speaker in the way of physical movement

Sealed boxes- Also as it states the air is sealed inside the box to allow for the subs to compress the air, thus making it easier to rebound back and be ready for the next note since it is not as free floating.
this creates a more crisp and accurate frequencies. Keep in mind that it will need more power to run the speaker but a better end result depending on the application. This box needs to be within the specifications of the sub's air space recommendations in order to receive the maximum potential from the speaker.

Band Pass boxes- This is a more complicated box, it has a sealed side and a ported side. This is like having the best of both worlds, you have the air compression that helps the speakers from over extending and the ported side to help the frequencies travel easier. There are drawbacks as well since you have both options you have an overall larger box.
The key here is once again the size of the sealed side and the depth and width of the ports. I do not suggest the Dual Audio's band pass box, the Plexiglas is purely for show it is less than an 1/16th inch thick. 1/8th inch- 3/16ths inch should be plenty. I will also suggest that you use coarse thread screws to hold the Plexiglas in place.

For a grand prix I would suggest a sealed or band pass box measured for the speakers you want to use. if you go with ported any ways you should find a way to run ports on the rear deck to help the sound travel to the cabin area and do not over power the speakers in the trunk.

ported boxes are better for SUV's, Hatchbacks and Wagons because they share the air space.
band pass boxes also work very well in these vehicles but also in sealed trunk spaces as well.
Sealed boxes are best for... you guessed it Sealed cargo areas



24685065.jpg
 


the fact that saying "gain" turned all the way up means you dont know **** about car audio or tuning. Clipping is a wonderful thing when that happens.

Depth of the port results in the tuning frequency..... the rest follows, anyone knows ported you run a sub sonic filter.

As for DVC and SVC lololol. Same dam sub, except 1 has 1 voice coil, the other has 2. DVC you have alot more wiring options
500 watt SVC is the same as a 500watt dvc except the DVC is 250watts PER coil. You can be cool though with a dvc and run 2 amps on 1 sub (each coil has its own amp). I did that in highschool. I dont think you know a dam thing about car audio man.

Oh p.s I think my gain is set at 35%, ***** ROCKS.
PPS leave your bass boost at 0 k thanks bye
 
you say I don't know **** because I turned the gain?? explain this logic?

I'm glad you think I don't know anything, so be it. I gave Generalized information so the op could have a guideline. You troll because you know all, huh good to know.

do we really need to get into a pi**ing match? you kidding me?
 
Back
Top