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Track session, Win vs GT500 with whipple upgrade



ybuhevup.jpg


Scan of the 11.6 run see how i have to modulate throttle to ger back traction.

17deg advance

Injector duty cycle very high
Maxed out maf i flow a lot more than 48/min

A/f is 11.5

Narrowband was on and off today, need a new one

0-60mph 3.2 seconds on that run
0-100mph is 7.5 seconds


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Dont forget my 220 lbs.
Vehicule weight is race weight including driver. So 3200-3300lbs


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What doubters?? Its very easy to smash 12s and 11s with a turbo 3800. Just cost a hefty penny for a trans that can hold it plus the turbo kit.

Wicked car man
 
Sven The Sexman said:
I give you credit...I was in doubt that this was what you expected, but 11.606 is better than I placed you. Congrats on proving me wrong.
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Thanks guys. What's the point of drag racing if not push the boundaries. In my case, I wanted a very cheap build that ran quick times and I'm happy with it.
What to go one more step before going full out on the twin engine project.
 


Speaking of pushing boundaries...
Just finished testing the car at 22.3 psi of boost.
Unreal...

10.9s is my goal but traction will have to be there. Plenty of power now to do it.

Smoked the 26 X 10.5 X 15 E.T. Streets like they are an all season tire at speed up to 90 mph. No traction.
Really dissapointed in the E.T. street tires in a FWD application. Tried different pressure, cold, hot, no difference. Traction similar to other drag radials (not good).

Put back my 23" X 8.0 X 15 MT full slicks... Now we are talking. Much better spun to 70mph only ! lol
Yet I need more traction my best 60 foot lsat Saturday was 1.85 average 1.9 - 2.0.
Just getting a 1.6 60 foot would net me low 11s with the power I had before.

So I will be ordering taller and wider slicks, and hopefully I will hook enough for a 10 second pass
with stock injectors, stock MAF, stock engine and stock trans. Running 12.5 a/f ratio on race fuel now.
conservative timing map and Zero KR.

So far so good, testing on the street was very conclusive.
 
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You are not even scanning the maf how would you even know its maxxed?

If tuning the last cell of the maf is your idea of tuning then go for it but luckily the valve float will keep the airflow fairly fixed at rpm.
 
Oh and flow more than 48lbm? Bull again.

6 39# injectors flow 3.9lb/m worth of fuel. At 12.6afr thats 48lbm worth of air. On pump gas its 44lbm.
 
darkhorizon said:
You are not even scanning the maf how would you even know its maxxed?
If tuning the last cell of the maf is your idea of tuning then go for it but luckily the valve float will keep the airflow fairly fixed at rpm.
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Your talking about valve float again ??
Why is it I can raise boost and shift at 6400rpm and not lose any time on the 1/4 mile if I have valve float ??

Please stop. What are you trying to prove, that I don't know what I'm doing ?

Maxing the Maf and injectors is not something I would give a customer but for my own stuff it is safe.
Because I constantly monitor knock and boost during a run.

At this point I am getting zero KR, safe A/F ratio. So why would I hurt anything in the engine.
Heck it has 150K miles that old engine on all original head gaskets.
 
darkhorizon said:
Oh and flow more than 48lbm? Bull again.

6 39# injectors flow 3.9lb/m worth of fuel. At 12.6afr thats 48lbm worth of air. On pump gas its 44lbm.
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Your math got you nowhere in predicting my times or my HP.

You math is wrong... there are MANY factors you don't understand and reading you just makes me cringe. Please stop.
I can go 25 lbs of boost increase my power tremendously and then I will be full maxed out on stock injectors with my upgraded fuel pump/fuel cel I am running.

You can believe in your own set in your mind limitations. I don't let that stop me.

As long as A/F is safe and no KR, I am not worried. I'm only running TR6 plugs... Again a HUGE misconception to have to run colder plugs btw guys.
If you have to run a much colder plus, the tune isn't right. Simple as that. I could be running stock plugs and not even have any pre-ignition because my tune is still safe.
Regardless if I max out my maf or Injectors or both.
 


Its wastegated.. the valve float shows as a restriction in the intake as boost and opens the wastegate and the turbo doesnt spin faster. If you had a maf sensor you could see flow staying stagnant as boost goes up. You cant ass dyno valve float in a turbo car.

Remember kid ive put 40k miles on a stock motor / trans setup identical running 16psi, and I am the fastest guy on this forum by hundreds of whp.... you keep calling me dumb and a hater telling you exactly whats going on. You have lied about your car many times already over the internet which makes it very hard to tell whats actually happening.

The last 3000lb turbo car I tune was going 130mph on 93 octane a valve spring upgrade and a pt6262... so you have work to do to keep up let alone beat me on race gas.
 
Oh my math got me nowhere? I said you would trap 116 on a NOT MAXXED OUT stock maf... you trapped 120 on a obviously maxxed one. You lied about it running fine on the stock maf when directly asked. Dont make sh1t up.
 
darkhorizon said:
Its wastegated.. the valve float shows as a restriction in the intake as boost and opens the wastegate and the turbo doesnt spin faster.
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Wrong... You make assumptions of things you know nothing about. You were the one saying my turbo would never work on my car.
Again wrong.

Smaller turbos DO NOT follow the same rules as bigger turbos. Biggers turbos require more exhaust pressure to sustain shaft speed and therefore BOOST. If you understood exactly how a turbo work, you would not have never made the above statement. You don't seem to understand the physics behind an engine or a turbocharger.

My boost stays the same because my boost control is right AND because my turbo is well matched with my engine. Most of you guys go way to big in the turbocharger and have peaky powerbands. You make huge power at top RPM but nothing down low. It's less likely I break anything because I have a constant pull, no spike in power.
.
If you had a maf sensor you could see flow staying stagnant as boost goes up. You cant ass dyno valve float in a turbo car.
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I can't ass dyno valve float you can't detect it via internet either. I know what valve float is, I don't have any. There are symptoms on a turbo car when the valves start floating.

Remember kid ive put 40k miles on a stock motor / trans setup identical running 16psi, and I am the fastest guy on this forum by hundreds of whp.... you keep calling me dumb and a hater telling you exactly whats going on. You have lied about your car many times already over the internet which makes it very hard to tell whats actually happening.
Click to expand...
Lied ? I've said nothing but the truth. Not my fault you misinterpret the data I feed you.

And no I don't think your dumb, not yet. But I do think there are many things you do not understand. The limitations you are talking about and much further than what you are saying.
You probably never tried exactly what I did. You most likely go for more expensive set ups from the get go and not learn anything about the true limits of the stock parts.
 
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