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Total engine rebuild, advise needed.

machinegunsquid

machinegunsquid

New member
As a few of you know, my motor decided it'd be more fun to run on 5 and 1/2 pistons...
The block was not damaged, and the crank, and main bearings were fine.

I'm going to have the block machined:
Align bored
Crank balanced
Deck the block
Bore, or hone the cylinders.


Anything else I should have done by the machine shop?? They are going to check the heads for damage, and if they check out, they are going to port them.

Should I go ahead and remove the balance shaft, and if so, which method would be the best in terms of ease, and reliability?

3 of the pistons are in good shape, and I've got 3 other pistons from my other blown motor that are good. Is there anything I should do to them before installing, other than cleaning them??

If I use the stock connecting rods, will it be okay to simply use new TTY rod bolts, or will I need to get the rods machined like using the ARP bolts?

What are people using as assembly lube for the bottom end? And what all gets lubed besides the bearings?

Also, what lube are people using on the cam during install, since the engine will be sitting for awhile, and not run?

And lastly, from the experienced...Are there any good tips/tricks rebuilding the bottom end?
 


advice:

listen to this song:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIkoSPqjaU4&feature=fvst

KY.jpg


or

ARP+Head+Stud+Kit+5.JPG
 
This isn't a large budget rebuild either, so anything I can reuse will really help. The machine work is being done for free basically, so Im trying to get enough to cam the car too.

The biggest thing for me in the build is reliability, and streetability, so try to keep that in mind.

Any suggestions are welcome, just dont tell me to get a junkyard motor and call it a day...
 
How much are you looking at spending right now? I'm sure you don't want to go the route I did but I bought a 70k mile L32 for $1000, threw that in and called it good. I was happy getting a Gen V.
 
I've looked all around in FL, GA, SC, and NC, for a decent motor, and everyone either wants crack prices, or they have over 150k on them.
This engine has about 85-90k on it right now, so instead of spending 1k on a motor, that I have no idea what's going on inside it, I'd rather rebuild this one.

Im trying to spend the least amount possible, as there is no real budget. I'm looking somewhere around $750-1000.
$1000 would be including a cam with valve train support.

All new gaskets/bearings really take up a huge chunk...about $500 bucks...
That and I need lifters too...
 


I got mine from Morad, def happy with buying from him. I was in the same boat, a shop blew my motor my senior year in high school, took no responsibility, sucked balls.
 
footballplaya3k said:
I got mine from Morad, def happy with buying from him. I was in the same boat, a shop blew my motor my senior year in high school, took no responsibility, sucked balls.
Click to expand...

Damn football you been doing some upgrading since I last talked to ya. How's your car running now, good?

More often than not once you try to rebuild an engine it will never run like it did before it was uncracked. That's why I agree with football, just pick up a good used motor from Ed. Prices might be high but in the end it will be cheaper trust me!
 
did u get the PM i sent u about the interior fire GTP with 60k on it.. they want 600 for the complete car including tranny... ad said no fire damage happened to drive train. its in charlotte and still listed.
 
IMO, I'd use all the stock bolts, TTY works, and they're pretty proven from the factory.

When I assemble engines, I use Lubriplate on everything minus the pistons. Those along with the wristpins get motor oil. Get a good angle meter, and make sure all of your TTY settings are spot on. A good wrench and socket set with no play is key.

You're heads probably have cracks, but they're likely ok. As long as the valve seats are still in tact, you should be good there. Have the crank polished, install new bearings etc.
One thing to note, if you replace the cam bearings, make sure that the shop has a cam so that they can true them up. I didn't do this when I had redone mine, and it was a lot of sanding, measuring, and it was a true PITA.

Above all else, cleanliness is godliness. Keep things wrapped up until the moment you're ready to put it in, then clean, check, clean again and install. If you're going to leave the shortblock assembled on a stand for any length of time, spray the bare metal parts down with oil, and cover it with plastic taping the ends shut.
 


Thanks reptile. And I'm going to be as anal as possible about proper bolt torques, and use an angle meter too.

gtpinsc, I went and checked it out, and the motor looks nasty as hell, just from popping the oil filler cap, it was pretty easy to tell the car was run into the ground..plus I would have to pay the gas to take it to FL, and come back....

and clean, I'd much rather spend 1k on a machined/rebuilt motor, and know exactly whats going on, then the same price on a junkyard motor.....again.
This makes #3 motor, if I got another, it'd be #4.
And I don't beat on them either...and no knock...Plus shipping a motor down to FL is hell.

And for the cleanliness, Everything removed is either in a ziploc bag, or a container thats labeled. Everythings been scrubbed down good, and the block has been sprayed, and is sitting in my living room, lol.
 
cleangtp said:
Damn football you been doing some upgrading since I last talked to ya. How's your car running now, good?

More often than not once you try to rebuild an engine it will never run like it did before it was uncracked. That's why I agree with football, just pick up a good used motor from Ed. Prices might be high but in the end it will be cheaper trust me!
Click to expand...

Yeah I've got a lil done lol. It's been running great ever since I put the L32 in a year ago, no issues at all besides replacing the IAC valve.

How's your car doing? Last I heard you ran a low 13 on an ic and rockers.

Sorry to threadjack squid
 
machinegunsquid said:
Thanks reptile. And I'm going to be as anal as possible about proper bolt torques, and use an angle meter too.

gtpinsc, I went and checked it out, and the motor looks nasty as hell, just from popping the oil filler cap, it was pretty easy to tell the car was run into the ground..plus I would have to pay the gas to take it to FL, and come back....

and clean, I'd much rather spend 1k on a machined/rebuilt motor, and know exactly whats going on, then the same price on a junkyard motor.....again.
This makes #3 motor, if I got another, it'd be #4.
And I don't beat on them either...and no knock...Plus shipping a motor down to FL is hell.

And for the cleanliness, Everything removed is either in a ziploc bag, or a container thats labeled. Everythings been scrubbed down good, and the block has been sprayed, and is sitting in my living room, lol.
Click to expand...


Good points, just take your time and check things 3-4 times

Sucks you have such bad luck with engines. How are you ruining them on 0 knock did you have oil pump failure or something?
 
Nah...first one literally blew on the drive home from buying it..never knew why..all the fluids were good, and it never got over 2k rpms...

2nd motor, was from the junkyard, got it in, and it seized immediatly...they took it back, and swapped it for the one I have now...

I never rebuilt this one, hell, never even checked it out, just kinda slapped it in, and went. Replaced a few gaskets, did some work to it, always kept it in good shape...

Went to start it, and then there was the terrible noise in my sig.
So somehow I chipped 3 pistons on startup...

But yeah, the build will be absolutely spot on, dont wanna **** anything up
 
How the hell do u chip 3 pistons at a start up. That boggles me. That sucks about the car in charlotte. 60K and it lookin as bad as u say. There's also a partout GTP in greenville and spartanburg area. Motor has a few ZZP parts on it. LIM and blower that I know of. Might wanna check into that.
 


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