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Top Swap vs SSm90

uNda6gT

uNda6gT

New member
alright guys,im in a dilemma right now,I got somebody selling me a top swap and some1 selling me a ssM90....I need everybodys opinion on which 1 should I get,the top swap jus needs gaskets and I think a mps and the ssm90 kit needs the zzp billet fuel logs 2 complete the kit,which 1 should I get?
 


Top swaps are cheaper, still require tuning, and are a little more difficult to install. The SSM90 kit is more expensive, you still retain your old heads, should come with a tuned PCM, and is easier to install.

I went the top swap route so I could have the heads rebuilt and cleaned and it's like having a brand new engine. All the parts were perfectly clean going on. If you do go the top swap route, take the heads to a machine shop and get them magnafluxed for cracks to make sure they're good. Our heads have a habit of cracking between the valve seats as they get older if they're not in a taken care of engine.

No one can tell you which one to do. We can lay you out the options and you decide for yourself.
 
i know, right; reminds me of the cobalt
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I have a combo of the kit and TS,started with SS M-90 then pulled the engine P&P the GT heads added cam and 2 belt setup ,I still have the inj.in the LIM and use ZZP rails ,if I were to start again I would say pull the engine and do a top swap ,it's cheaper than the ss kit and gives you more options,but the SS M-90 kit does work well if your satisfied with say a 3.5" pulley a SSIC and 1.9 rockers this will give you a mid 13sec car for around $1500 .I did design a idler pulley that will help with the 1 belt setup if anyone is interested.Chico.
 
If you want to go cheap and have a fun quick car, get the ssm90 kit.

If you plan on a bigger build down the road, and your car is an on-going project to go faster, then go top swap.

Im still getting parts together for mine, you can go real cheap on the top-swap, im kind of anal about parts that go on my car so i opted for alot more and now i think i spent way to much and don't even have the s/c on my car yet.. :( A good rule of thumb is whatever you plan on spending, double it. Im hitting the $2,500 mark...I should have just gone turbo.
 
chico said:
...I did design a idler pulley that will help with the 1 belt setup if anyone is interested.Chico.
Click to expand...

I am curious to see what you did as far as an idler pulley for a single belt system.

I started with this plywood prototype:

L26232.jpg


And wound up with this:

L26264.jpg


L26271.jpg


L26275.jpg




(This is in a 1998 H-body; "hybrid" topswap on an L26 block using L67 heads/LIM but the SSM90/MPS pulley system)
 


well doesn't zzp have a tune for people doin a regular top swap? and with the top swap what size pulley would I start with?
 
as big of one as you can find. at least the stock one.

that is, unless youre doing other stuff with it like a cam.
 
uNda6gT said:
ok so what mods do I need to put the pulley at a 3.8 or 3.6?
Click to expand...

I had trouble ironing out a tune with at 3.8" and I have a Plog, DP, intake, 180*, and 1.9 rockers. Plus, I do my own custom tuning. I'd say a good set of headers, an intake, a tune, and the 1.9 rockers or a cam should let you run a 3.8" pretty well. Anything below that and you'll want an intercooler.

The higher compression of the N/A block works with you to make more power but can also be what destroys your engine.
 


when you get everything together I should be able to help you tune for it.... I will gather more info on it if you are not able to acquire a ZZP tune
 
damn,what would life be like if everything was ez! lol.... guess I will start off with a 4.0 pulley since all I have is intake,exhaust,3inch dp catless,stage1 hv tb and jus work my way up from there
 
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