Ok so let me impart some info from old time tire guys ( even older than ME) . On radials to get better life remember two things, your cold temp should run 80% of tire max psi, proper dynamic balance, and remember to rotate tires regularly. Oh and NEVER BUY DIRECTIONALS.
When rotating tires always cross fronts to rear then bring rears straight forward. On later model cars feathering to a degree with more local turning, in NORMAL. The reason for proper rotation as I stated is too break the wear patterns induced by your car/driving style. Also when looking at the factory specs, also read your tires. If you do driving in and around town and you have inner edge wear (smooth with limited feathering) means your car/driving style needs less negative camber. If your doing more distance driving and have same issue same thing. Prefered camber SHOULD wear and handle decent. BUT will still be a trade off for either action. You want better handling, you keep drooping the camber negative till you get no track time increase with identical tire temps. Critical tire temps SHOULD BE uniform across tire for longevity but if higher inner temps with more negative camber result in faster car and no tire blistering your good.
More positive camber results in better tire wear uniformity.
NOW, when racing tire pressure should go DOWN, HIGHER TIRE PRESSURE WILL LOOSEN THE HANDLING UP.
On the street I honestly like seeing 44 to 51 psi tires no lower than 40 psi. If any tire guy tells you to run low pressure in a 51 max psi tire ITS HALF FLAT DUMKOFF. Using 80% rule ie at least 80% of max cold inflation.
The door spec has no clue what tires you installed. But it should be minimum regardless. But is too low.
And yes wide tires wear in center, especially if the tires are wider than the wheel.
