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Tie rod end Just pop out after you remove cotter pin and nut?



tie rods are in the steering knuckle, take the pin and castle nut off, then hit the flat part of the knuckle with a hammer hard, 3 or 4 shots will pop the tie rod out of the knuckle.
 
It helps give you more hammering force if you turn the wheels so the flat part of the knuckle is sticking out.
 
dsmuts said:
If you aren't reusing the tierod I'd use a tierod separator
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thing is, most dont have one, but everyone has a hammer. sen the dealer ships use the hammer all the time too. if you look close at that flat end, you'll see some hammer marks on it already.
 


STOP HAMMER TIME!!!!!!!

I'm a front end/alignment Technician for GM. Any time I'm reusing any tie rod I make sure to strike the end of tie rod flat where the nut threads down. If it flares out I simply grind the tip down just enough to be able to thread the nut back on. Have removed and reinstalled a few hundred to thousand like this.
I don't like striking the main part of the tie rod because it puts stress on the ball/ socket joint, which is usually a combination of plastic and grease to keep it tight.

Just make sure to strike it hard and flat.
 
who hits the tie rod? thats silly... you hit the flat part of the steering knuckle where the tie rod is mounted, the hammer blows shock the tie rod end loose.
 


if i caught a gm front end tech beating my tie rod end, i would take his hammer from him and beat him silly.

well first i would show his boss, so he gets fired lol
 
Scottydoggs said:
who hits the tie rod? thats silly... you hit the flat part of the steering knuckle where the tie rod is mounted, the hammer blows shock the tie rod end loose.
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Seen guys deform spindles/knuckles like this unfortunately. A lot of newer spindles/knuckles are aluminum and can't take that kind of force. The threaded part of the tierod is the strongest part to strike. A firm flat hit usually jars them loose.
 
Scottydoggs said:
if i caught a gm front end tech beating my tie rod end, i would take his hammer from him and beat him silly.

well first i would show his boss, so he gets fired lol
Click to expand...

Reread what I posted the first time. Dont hit the tie rod itself. Hit the threaded end where the nut threads on flush with a hammer. Its safer than hitting most of these newer aluminum knuckles. Besides if I brake a tie rod, I pay for it. that's a hell of a lot cheaper than. Me having to pay for an entire knuckle. We're a very honest service department. (I know such a thing doesn't exist), and if it didn't come in for that problem and all the sudden it arises, we are going to cover it. I pride myself on quality work. I've worked on everything from $50 beaters to $150,000
Mercedes to priceless custom builds. I take my work very seriously
 
ive been called to friends homes to help out, seen the threads all mushroomed form being pounded on. not always the best route to go, and this car dont have an aluminum knuckle.

if your dealing with a al knuckle thats what the pickle fork is for. but the tie rod boot will die and its no longer reusable if you wanted to re use the tie rod. if your replacing it it dont matter if you tear it up.
 


Hey smartass, only reason i asked was because YOU said it didnt have aluminum spindles. Since when do second gen ws not have aluminum spindles
 
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