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Thoughts on cheap subs?



whiney said:
yup, tap into the speaker wires and connect it to the converter and you are done.
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But that's so simple!!! Why wouldn't anyone do something like this? It's such a great deal! I should be on commercials. well i appreciate the help.
 
whiney said:
no problem man that's what the forum is for!!
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you mean i can simply ask a question on here, and someone will answer it for me??? I didn't know that's how it worked. Maybe someone should get bluegtp up to date with this technology :th_laugh-lol2:
 


What do you have for power? How many watts at what nominal impedance?

Or you can have my IXL 18.2.2 for 100 + shipping. Looking at probably 180 to your door.
 
I don't have power picked out yet. I was gonna buy whatever is cheap and matches the rating. 180 to my door for a sub would be cool, but that shipping is what knocks it out. If I knew i was getting a really good product (for the price), i'd go up to 150ish.
 
True, I'll model those two woofers with the respective power they should be given in an ideal box for each.

Quick question, sealed or ported?
 
how do you model them? I was planning on maybe (since i'd only run 1 sub) removing one of the 6x9's in the rear deck and porting it through there. Did you guys say to seal the sub then put the sealed box in a ported one to the cabin? I could potentially just move the 6x9's back with the sub and port through those holes.

be kind to me though, i'd run a 2 ohm load with whatever sub i chose, whether it's the DVC 4 ohm punch in parallel or the 1 ohm DVC mach5 in series.
 


You could do that.... Or you could just rip your stock 6x9's out and leave the sub in the trunk facing rearward and against the rear lip of the trunk.

And if you do decide you want to port directly to the cabin, rip both 6x9's out and just port to one side and make it as big as possible. Meaning... pull out the plastic retainer for the speaker as well as the speaker itself.

And to model it you use a program like Unibox, WinISD etc.

FRD consortium has a bunch of useful tools.

And when I say ported, I mean ported box or sealed box. Not talking about directing the sound directly into the cabin.

IMO, I would get two subs and mount them where the 6x9's are and attach the box to the back of the speaker inside the trunk.

That way, you get maximal trunk space and it should sound pretty freaking awesome and not rattle your trunk at ALL.
 
that rear deck would be so flimsy though, wouldn't it? reason i backed away from 2 subs is because it seems like the quality of 2 subs couldn't match the quality of 1 sub for the same price. so assuming that i want the box to be set into the trunk as far as possible and i would be willing to move the 6x9's, should i plan on a bandpass? My old setup was ported (granted it was in a SUV) and it has a whole lot of bad reflection. No such thing as tight bass with that setup.
 
How is it flimsy? The rear seats mount onto it.

since you're going ultra budget here, I agree, get one decent sub.

Bandpass would be decent, but requires lots of work. Would you be making the box yourself or paying someone to make it?
 
100% making it myself. As much as I get flamed for this, I want to make it a bit showy. Nothing overkill, but a see through pontiac logo over the sub would be cool. Wasn't sure as far as what material would work well for that. Haven't put much thought into it, i need to buy the goods before i get to work.
 
You want it to be showy yet you won't buy a quality sub? I see... you'll end up spending more on the plexiglass, MDF, glue, screws, clamps etc than the sub :D

I'd just get a decently beastly yet showy sub. See this:

rlp15-top.jpg
 


lol just a thought! I basically want some pretty tight bass. Those ported ones were pretty good for rap music, but I want to hear that sweet double bass in rock songs.
 
from my experience, sealed sounds better to me in a closed trunk. If porting it through the missing 6x9 would reduce trunk buzz i'd consider that too.
 
You shoudl never have a ported sub with the port going directly into the cabin and the speaker not firing into the cabin.

That just gives you more bass at the box's resonant frequency and not much above it.
 
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