bonerjamz03
New member
Here she is...
Thoughts on 2000 Nissan Maxima?
- Thread starter bonerjamz03
- Start date
Damn, I'm jelly for the price you paid. Nice score. Almost a dead on twin to my LX Sport.
Ok, so here is some info to get you started, sorry if it's longwinded.
Within another 10-15K miles I'd consider changing the spark plugs out with some NGK 7164 {#2885, TR55IX} Iridium IX gapped at 0.054" (Rockauto has them). I'd also change the COP boots and springs at the same time. This is assuming all these parts are still OEM factory. Also add some dielectric grease to the boots where they seal to the spark plug tip and where they seal to the head (keeps moisture and oil leaks out). Once you remove the COPs and boots be sure to blow the spark plug holes out with compressed air to make sure no junk gets down into the heads since this is an OHC motor. Do NOT use anti-seize on the plugs. They go in dry.
Be easy on removing the plugs as carbon often builds up on the bottom few threads and makes them hard to remove. Best to do with the motor warm. These 4.6 heads don't have a lot of threads in them so if you just wrench them out it could strip the threads and then you have to heli-coil them. They also don't need a lot of torque going back in.
Yes you can change the plugs without removing the fuel rail.
I would also do a full coolant flush on it. You really don't want to have to replace the heater core on this car, trust me lol. Refill with DISTILLED water and Zerex G-05 coolant (the yellow stuff).
I've always run a Motorcraft FL-820S oil filter and the 5W-20 Motorcraft syn-blend oil in my 03 since I bought it with 54K on it. No issues so far so that's what I've stuck with.
One important thing to do would be to get the entire rear end in the air and then pull up on the rear tires and check for play. If you feel any give/clunk then you need to replace both outer rear axle bearings, both axle shafts and flush/clean the living daylights out of the entire axle housing. Ford had an issue with soft axles around this time and if this one has this issue it will chew up the entire rear axle. I fought this on my 03 twice before I had to just get another complete rear and rebuid everything but the center carrier. New Ford outer bearings, 2 Yukon 31 spine axles and some Valvoline 75W-140 axle lube and good to go. Check the axle tag and see if you have a trac-loc axle. Likely the code would be 3L27. Should be on the bolt at the 2 o'clock position.
As far as the driveshaft goes, here is a link that should show you what you need to know--> Crown Vic Driveshaft Swap |
I'll put together some basic power mods and send it over. Will also find the J-Mod instructions for the trans. That 4R70W will thank you and it won't shift like grandpa's car anymore
Ok, so here is some info to get you started, sorry if it's longwinded.
Within another 10-15K miles I'd consider changing the spark plugs out with some NGK 7164 {#2885, TR55IX} Iridium IX gapped at 0.054" (Rockauto has them). I'd also change the COP boots and springs at the same time. This is assuming all these parts are still OEM factory. Also add some dielectric grease to the boots where they seal to the spark plug tip and where they seal to the head (keeps moisture and oil leaks out). Once you remove the COPs and boots be sure to blow the spark plug holes out with compressed air to make sure no junk gets down into the heads since this is an OHC motor. Do NOT use anti-seize on the plugs. They go in dry.
Be easy on removing the plugs as carbon often builds up on the bottom few threads and makes them hard to remove. Best to do with the motor warm. These 4.6 heads don't have a lot of threads in them so if you just wrench them out it could strip the threads and then you have to heli-coil them. They also don't need a lot of torque going back in.
Yes you can change the plugs without removing the fuel rail.
I would also do a full coolant flush on it. You really don't want to have to replace the heater core on this car, trust me lol. Refill with DISTILLED water and Zerex G-05 coolant (the yellow stuff).
I've always run a Motorcraft FL-820S oil filter and the 5W-20 Motorcraft syn-blend oil in my 03 since I bought it with 54K on it. No issues so far so that's what I've stuck with.
One important thing to do would be to get the entire rear end in the air and then pull up on the rear tires and check for play. If you feel any give/clunk then you need to replace both outer rear axle bearings, both axle shafts and flush/clean the living daylights out of the entire axle housing. Ford had an issue with soft axles around this time and if this one has this issue it will chew up the entire rear axle. I fought this on my 03 twice before I had to just get another complete rear and rebuid everything but the center carrier. New Ford outer bearings, 2 Yukon 31 spine axles and some Valvoline 75W-140 axle lube and good to go. Check the axle tag and see if you have a trac-loc axle. Likely the code would be 3L27. Should be on the bolt at the 2 o'clock position.
As far as the driveshaft goes, here is a link that should show you what you need to know--> Crown Vic Driveshaft Swap |
I'll put together some basic power mods and send it over. Will also find the J-Mod instructions for the trans. That 4R70W will thank you and it won't shift like grandpa's car anymore
bonerjamz03
New member
I think I could have gotten it a bit cheaper, but I didn't want to offend the guy by low balling him. We both thought 3500 was a fair price though so it's all good.
He mentioned that the boots and plugs were just changed, not sure about the springs though. He's supposed to be sending me the maintenance records so I'll find out.
Coolant flush will happen soon. If the heater core is worse than on the Grand Prix then I definitely don't want to mess with it lol.
The shop that did the pre-purchase inspection checked for play throughout the entire suspension and found none so I should be good on that (for now)
It really is in solid shape. The only thing they found was a minuscule amount of oil from the oil pan gasket and the A/C accumulator looked like it had some UV dye leaking out of it. That was really all that was wrong with it. Tires still have a lot of life left, new brakes, no play in suspension.
And this thing definitely does shift like a poppop's car unless you really get on it and even then it ain't great lol. I was just reading about the MZT mod on crownvic.net so I might go down that route unless you have other suggestions.
Edit: And by all means be as long winded as you want to be. I need to learn this stuff.
He mentioned that the boots and plugs were just changed, not sure about the springs though. He's supposed to be sending me the maintenance records so I'll find out.
Coolant flush will happen soon. If the heater core is worse than on the Grand Prix then I definitely don't want to mess with it lol.
The shop that did the pre-purchase inspection checked for play throughout the entire suspension and found none so I should be good on that (for now)
It really is in solid shape. The only thing they found was a minuscule amount of oil from the oil pan gasket and the A/C accumulator looked like it had some UV dye leaking out of it. That was really all that was wrong with it. Tires still have a lot of life left, new brakes, no play in suspension.
And this thing definitely does shift like a poppop's car unless you really get on it and even then it ain't great lol. I was just reading about the MZT mod on crownvic.net so I might go down that route unless you have other suggestions.
Edit: And by all means be as long winded as you want to be. I need to learn this stuff.
Yea, winding it out they still shift a bit better. My j-modded 03 will actually slip the drive belt on the 1-2 shift and sometimes on 2-3, lol. I didn't set it to the necksanpping level that I could have since my wife drives it too. Didn't want the back end to walk out when it's wet out if she got on it. Would not end well. I also have a habit of locking mine out of overdrive unless I know I'm going to be above 45mph for an extended amount of time. I feel like it keeps the trans from constantly shuffling gears when you try to pull a small hill and it drops back into 3rd and then upshifts back into 4th as you level out. Just seems like more wear to me. I'm not sure if you have an "OD" button on that one or not, never really looked at the column shift version.
Yep, the MZT was one of the mods I was going to mention. Also, I'm pretty sure the 04's still retained the drive-by-wire throttle body (which is a good thing). I did want to ask, does your's have air suspension in the back? Just curious.
Yep, the MZT was one of the mods I was going to mention. Also, I'm pretty sure the 04's still retained the drive-by-wire throttle body (which is a good thing). I did want to ask, does your's have air suspension in the back? Just curious.
bonerjamz03
New member
Nope no air suspension. I'll have to check the throttle body later.
Is the MZT mod noticeable? Would I be better off going with something else or does that seem to provide a decent boost of power?
I was also thinking gears but don't know if it's something I'm able to do myself. Haven't looked into it too much yet.
Is the MZT mod noticeable? Would I be better off going with something else or does that seem to provide a decent boost of power?
I was also thinking gears but don't know if it's something I'm able to do myself. Haven't looked into it too much yet.
For the money the MZT mod seems worth it.
As far as gears go I'd have to see what's currently in it. If you have traction control then I'd bet it's got an open 3.08 in it. It "might" have an open 3.27 if you're lucky. It also depends on how much highway driving you plan on doing with it. If you do a lot then I wouldn't go with anything higher than 3.55, and that may be pushing it if you're looking to keep some MPG's. Although the 3.55's will help it get out of the hole quicker for sure and get it into the higher revs while cruising since the mod motor doesn't really come alive until you get the rpms up, they aren't known for their torque in stock form.
When my stock axle grenaded itself the last time I decided to keep the same ratio (3.27) but found a trac-loc axle and swapped it in. I find traction control useless in inclimate weather and I always turn it off anyway. The trac-loc seems to do a much better job of handling slippage. I'd have to check my records but I seem to recall that it will get around 410-420 mi. to a full tank running mostly highway with the 3.27's. Of course if you abuse it the mileage will suffer but not much. Gets about the same as my 00 GT. I know I can start with a full tank from home to Branson, Mo (which is about 290mi) and arrive there with a hair under a 1/4 tank left running A/C and a fully loaded trunk, and there usually are several parts of I-44 that I've seen triple digits on. Stupid people riding in the passing lane doing 60 piss me off, lol.
As far as changing gear ratio's yourself there is a lot to do to make it right, and if one thing is off it can cost you but it can be done. Me personally this is one of the few things that if I ever decide to have changed I will pay a professional shop to build it. I've taken enough rear axles out to know that I really only want to do it once.
As far as gears go I'd have to see what's currently in it. If you have traction control then I'd bet it's got an open 3.08 in it. It "might" have an open 3.27 if you're lucky. It also depends on how much highway driving you plan on doing with it. If you do a lot then I wouldn't go with anything higher than 3.55, and that may be pushing it if you're looking to keep some MPG's. Although the 3.55's will help it get out of the hole quicker for sure and get it into the higher revs while cruising since the mod motor doesn't really come alive until you get the rpms up, they aren't known for their torque in stock form.
When my stock axle grenaded itself the last time I decided to keep the same ratio (3.27) but found a trac-loc axle and swapped it in. I find traction control useless in inclimate weather and I always turn it off anyway. The trac-loc seems to do a much better job of handling slippage. I'd have to check my records but I seem to recall that it will get around 410-420 mi. to a full tank running mostly highway with the 3.27's. Of course if you abuse it the mileage will suffer but not much. Gets about the same as my 00 GT. I know I can start with a full tank from home to Branson, Mo (which is about 290mi) and arrive there with a hair under a 1/4 tank left running A/C and a fully loaded trunk, and there usually are several parts of I-44 that I've seen triple digits on. Stupid people riding in the passing lane doing 60 piss me off, lol.
As far as changing gear ratio's yourself there is a lot to do to make it right, and if one thing is off it can cost you but it can be done. Me personally this is one of the few things that if I ever decide to have changed I will pay a professional shop to build it. I've taken enough rear axles out to know that I really only want to do it once.
BillBoost37
New member
I must have not read much.. that doesn't look a whole lot like a smackima
bonerjamz03
New member
Boy, nothing gets by you Bill :th_nanana:
BillBoost37
New member
You noticed eh
bonerjamz03
New member
Is there a place that sells the kit or am I better trying to go to a u pull it yard and trying my luck for the parts and get the tune somewhere local?
Also, just made my first official modification purchase.....
Addco Performance Anti-Sway Bar Kits 650 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Thinking about getting the billet control arms from ADTR next.
I took it out for a few hours today and while on the highway it really was a pleasure to drive, on the back roads it all fell apart. The car really does handle like a boat in stock form lol. I'll try to improve that a bit then move onto more power stuff.
Nice. You'll like the Addco rear bar.
As far as the rear control arms go, you have Henious, Metco and CHE Performance as choices. The only reason I went with CHE is they were cheaper (297.00 shipped- got the blue ones) and they have some color choices. And I like the Delrin bushings that are in them. No squeak, no re-greasing like poly. Honestly any of the 3 would be just fine. You'd be surprised at how much lateral stiffness is gained by changing those arms. Once you have the OEM part and the new ones side by side it will be obvious.
As far as the MZT mod, you can either get it all from ADTR, or try and source it from a JY or Ebay. Good luck in a jy though as I rarely see a Marauder in a yard. Don't forget you'll need a tune to work the larger MAF.
As far as the rear control arms go, you have Henious, Metco and CHE Performance as choices. The only reason I went with CHE is they were cheaper (297.00 shipped- got the blue ones) and they have some color choices. And I like the Delrin bushings that are in them. No squeak, no re-greasing like poly. Honestly any of the 3 would be just fine. You'd be surprised at how much lateral stiffness is gained by changing those arms. Once you have the OEM part and the new ones side by side it will be obvious.
As far as the MZT mod, you can either get it all from ADTR, or try and source it from a JY or Ebay. Good luck in a jy though as I rarely see a Marauder in a yard. Don't forget you'll need a tune to work the larger MAF.
bonerjamz03
New member
I'm gonna to go with the CHE performance arms. Save $50 and put it towards something else. The Heinous ones look cool but how often am I going to be looking at rear control arms once they're installed? lol
The guy I bought it from said there is a u pull it jy that is filled with Crown vics, marquis, town cars. A lot that have been modded too. It's about an hour and a half drive but I'm probably gonna check it out this Friday and see if I get lucky and find some parts.
I really was surprised at how good the car was on the highway. I thought it would be a turd, but it pulls pretty strong at higher speeds. A couple of times when I floored it the transmission was confused but overall it was great. Still needs more power though haha. It really is like a couch on wheels though.
Only thing that blows is the cupholder. It's tied with the Grand Prix for worst cupholder design of any car I have owned haha.
The guy I bought it from said there is a u pull it jy that is filled with Crown vics, marquis, town cars. A lot that have been modded too. It's about an hour and a half drive but I'm probably gonna check it out this Friday and see if I get lucky and find some parts.
I really was surprised at how good the car was on the highway. I thought it would be a turd, but it pulls pretty strong at higher speeds. A couple of times when I floored it the transmission was confused but overall it was great. Still needs more power though haha. It really is like a couch on wheels though.
Only thing that blows is the cupholder. It's tied with the Grand Prix for worst cupholder design of any car I have owned haha.
That's another reason I went with CHE. Why spend more for something I can't usually see? In fact the only mod under the car that can be somewhat easily seen is my GT500 rear axle cover, and that's just because it's shiny, lol.
They do get up ok on the highway since the motor is already spun up a bit. Gets into the powerband quicker. Get it j-modded and the trans will be less confused.
And yea, it's like driving your grandma's couch, and it handles just about as well too.
I have no idea where the cupholder is on those since my Sport has a console shifter and the cupholders are up on it behind the shift lever. If I were to guess I'd say it's down below the dash where the ashtray might have been.
They do get up ok on the highway since the motor is already spun up a bit. Gets into the powerband quicker. Get it j-modded and the trans will be less confused.
And yea, it's like driving your grandma's couch, and it handles just about as well too.
I have no idea where the cupholder is on those since my Sport has a console shifter and the cupholders are up on it behind the shift lever. If I were to guess I'd say it's down below the dash where the ashtray might have been.
bonerjamz03
New member
Damn I wish it was a sport model. The cupholders on mine fold out from the dash under the climate control. The worst possible spot because it digs into my right leg everytime I have to use it.
bonerjamz03
New member
I just watched the J mod tutorial on YT. It looks a lot easier than I was expecting. I might give it a shot once the weather clears out here.
bonerjamz03
New member
Hey Fordman, I found a guy selling a PI catback dual exhaust for $100. Good deal or no?
bonerjamz03
New member
Yes single is currently on there. It is a factory unit. The guy buys them at police auction and parts them out supposedly.
It should just bolt right up after the cats correct? I haven't really been able to check out under the car yet since it's been pouring rain here the past few days.
It should just bolt right up after the cats correct? I haven't really been able to check out under the car yet since it's been pouring rain here the past few days.
bonerjamz03
New member
Hope I'm not bugging you too much. You've been more responsive than anyone over at Crownvic.net