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Thermostat?

Pure2sin

Pure2sin

New member
Looks like my thermostat is funked. I drove it a few miles and one of the lines going into the alternator bracket blew off. Before it did I was getting hotter and hotter past the 180 degrees that my thermostat is. I would assume this is because the thermostat didn't open up, causing heat, causing back pressure. Yes no?
 
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Bio248 said:
here is the link matt posted:

Different Ways To Cool An Engine - Street Rodder Magazine

read the entire thing, then get back to us.
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I think there are a lot of blanket statements in that article. Plus that is one article saying one thing. I can tell you if I write a report on a subject I will have more than one source to back up my points or I will get fired. I personally think, depending on the mods, you can benefit from a colder thermostat. If this wasn't the case I would be running a 195 and some stock plugs.
 
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Pure2sin said:
I think there are a lot of blanket statements in that article. Plus that is one article saying one thing. I can tell you if I write a report on a subject I will have more than one source to back up my points. I personally think depending on the mods you can benefit from a colder thermostat. If this wasn't the case I would be running a 195 and some stock plugs.
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The article is a good read, but unfortunately it doesn't cover roots blower engines, which are nothing like N/A motors.

Too many people go straight to a colder tstat and colder plugs... but the reality is they aren't needed. Personally I run a 180 tstat, not drilled... I think that drilling the tstat is not smart. I do this because the supercharger makes A LOT of heat. Much more heat than an N/A motor. Air is going in 200-250 degrees above ambient temps.

My coolant stays at 180 degrees for the most part in normal driving, but after a few pulls it shoots up to over 200. By using the 180 I feel like the coolant drains the KR creating heat out of our motors a little better.

Going to a 160 is too cold. At those levels your engine oil may not reach proper temps and you could start to sludge it up... And a drilled 160 is a terrible idea.

If you get on it a lot go with a 180, if you drive normal, stick with the stock one.
 


I've never seen/heard of the coolant elbows or coolant hoses blowing due to an overheating condition. Definately get them swapped and a thermostat at the same time would be a cheap item to toss in for good measure.

I'd keep a close eye on them though.
 
SnowFlake said:
The article is a good read, but unfortunately it doesn't cover roots blower engines, which are nothing like N/A motors.

Too many people go straight to a colder tstat and colder plugs... but the reality is they aren't needed. Personally I run a 180 tstat, not drilled... I think that drilling the tstat is not smart. I do this because the supercharger makes A LOT of heat. Much more heat than an N/A motor. Air is going in 200-250 degrees above ambient temps.

My coolant stays at 180 degrees for the most part in normal driving, but after a few pulls it shoots up to over 200. By using the 180 I feel like the coolant drains the KR creating heat out of our motors a little better.

Going to a 160 is too cold. At those levels your engine oil may not reach proper temps and you could start to sludge it up... And a drilled 160 is a terrible idea.

If you get on it a lot go with a 180, if you drive normal, stick with the stock one.
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X2 Back in the days, they used to run colder thermostats to combat KR and it was generally a good idea since there wasn't much for tuning or a way to tune back then. There are quite a few tables that go off of the ECT as well and can help if you are running colder. I run a 180 for the same reasons above, don't see any reason to run a stock Tstat.
 
If it requires a cooler thermostat to keep the engine cool, then there is a malfunction in the cooling system, assuming all is stock. If this is the case, then look elsewhere under the hood for a problem.

Since I've not seen an aftermarket t-stat function as effectively as an OEM, I'd never recommend any t-stat, aside from a genuine GM part.

Drilling a hole in the flange will only make the warm-up slower. You're defeating the purpose of a system that was designed to function in a certain manner.
 
SnowDrift said:
If it requires a cooler thermostat to keep the engine cool, then there is a malfunction in the cooling system, assuming all is stock. If this is the case, then look elsewhere under the hood for a problem.

Since I've not seen an aftermarket t-stat function as effectively as an OEM, I'd never recommend any t-stat, aside from a genuine GM part.

Drilling a hole in the flange will only make the warm-up slower. You're defeating the purpose of a system that was designed to function in a certain manner.
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Again another blanket statement. I agree that you could have many mods and still run a stock thermostat.

This is the main point. If you have a modded car and you go into NAPA the 195 and 180 are the same price. Why wouldn't you get the 180? If you say because you will get sludge in the oil, I am pretty sure your car is still going to get over 180 even with a 180 thermostat. Bad gas mileage? I would like to see someone actually prove this with numbers. Bad oil? I don't think this is valid either. If you are running a 150 degree thermostat maybe but 180 and 195 are not that far apart. I honestly don't think 15 degrees or less will make any difference in the oil

The way I see it, if you have a 195 and its 100 degrees outside your car is going to get much hotter than 195. In this instance I would want a 180 to keep the car cooler and avoid KR. I do agree that a 180 thermostat in the Winter is pretty pointless but then again it's not going to HURT your car.
 
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Pure2sin said:
Again another blanket statement. I agree that you could have many mods and still run a stock thermostat.

This is the main point. If you have a modded car and you go into NAPA the 195 and 180 are the same price. Why wouldn't you get the 180? If you say because you will get sludge in the oil, I am pretty sure your car is still going to get over 180 even with a 180 thermostat. Bad gas mileage? I would like to see someone actually prove this with numbers.

The way I see it, if you have a 195 and its 100 degrees outside your car is going to get much hotter than 195. In this instance I would want a 180 to keep the car cooler and avoid KR. I do agree that a 180 thermostat in the Winter is pretty pointless but then again it's not going to HURT your car.
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To further your point...I just typed this up a little bit ago.

Granted it's my opinion...so go ahead and pick it apart for those who disagree. I don't care:

I like a cooler running motor and having the piece of mind knowing its running a tad cooler, plus...15* isn't a drurastic enough of a difference. Going from a 195* to a 180* is ideal, but drilling T-Stats isn't my thing either...I run a 160*. I don't like my motor getting hot. The heat works great in the winter...don't have to wait for it either; people claim it "takes forever"...When I'm sitting in traffic it still is getting up to around 180*-ish. Cruising on the highway it still sits around 170*-180*. I think one of the bigger aspects you guys are missing is the fact that the motors still run 10-20* more than the rating of the opening temp for the thermostat...so your 195* stat'd car is seeing temps well over 210*...and the factory fan turn on point is what, 212*? And people wonder why the factory plastic manifolds and gaskets fail over time...I'll be my typical hard headed self and take my "increased wear" and "crappy MPG's" over a heat soaked 3800 mess anyday. Old motors...old technology. Colder T-Stats, junky copper core spark plugs, high octane fuel. They work...I like the ideas. Just like DHP PCM's...proven over the years, tried and true.

Like Cop likes to say...you can do it that way, but there are other ways to go about doing things. I like my ways, you have yours. But don't go editing this thread and taking out the colder thermostat information just because it isn't the way you guys would go about it.
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I should have tested the time/temp differences in 195/180 heater speeds this winter. But there's definitely a difference. The 195* was warm when I got on the highway, and hot by my exit to work; the 180* was warm when I got to my exit for work and didn't ever get hot. The 195 got "toasty" whereas the 180 got "bearable." Drop the room temp 15*; see if your woman notices.
 
bluegtp91 said:
She might not, but her nipples will tell the story.
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So yeah back to my issue. lol

My car starts up and idles fine and the temp looks to be good. After driving for a while it will start to creep up (not like normal, it goes above normal and slowly keeps going up). Seems like the more I get on it the higher and faster the heat gets. I am thinking I either have some blockage, the pump is bad or gasket, or the timing is way up (but I haven't changed that since before I put the IC on). Last thing would be the head gaskets but I really don't think that's the issue.
 
Pure2sin said:
Again another blanket statement.
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No blanket statement at all. The main point is "Since I've not seen an aftermarket t-stat function as effectively as an OEM, I'd never recommend any t-stat, aside from a genuine GM part."

I'd not buy a thermostat unless it is a genuine OEM part, as in AC Delco. When I go to my local dealership, I don't get a choice on what temperature, since there is only one for my engine (or any engine I own) that contains.

Not trying to start a rant, but just saying I disagree with using aftermarket stats.
 


Too bad GM's can fail...as they can get stuck open OR closed. That's why I buy Failsafe's TStat since it can only get stuck in the open position. Might look into that.
 
Your oil is supposed to get up to 212 but not get much higher than 220-230.

212 is where it burns off moisture.

230 is where breakdown begins.

Oil cools the motor as well as the coolant.
 
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