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That One New Kid

Is a pully swap pretty easy as a back yard project so to speak? I heard swapping to a 3.4 is pretty good, but is the pulley swap good enough or is the whole nose cone the only way to go? I know it should give better psi, I just don't want to overheat anything by running the higher pressure. As far as wires, something from a local place good or no? (ex. AutoZone, O'Reiley, Advance, etc.) I've done brakes, struts, and all fluids on my old Cavalier (let the laughing begin lol) so I'm not worried about anything up that alley. I don't wanna do too much too the exhaust unless it will give good gains, thus the sleeper idea, except for headers, down pipe, plog, etc.
 


you can do it without taking the blower off the car. You'll just want some exhaust mods, and a way to monitor for knock.

Ideally you'd get the scan gauge ie a scangauge II or an aeroforce scan gauge, check for knock, apply exhaust mods or repair engine as needed. Then drop pulley and continue to scan for knock. If no knock is present, then its gonna be a good time. If there is some, I'd suggest putting a larger pulley on and figuring out why its knocking.

You'll never hear it, because the PCM pulls timing, but if the PCM is pulling timing, that's not good.

Local place should be fine, but I have heard of some of the cheaper wires causing issues. Try to go brand name, not house brand.

Stock catback is fine for a 3.4 setup.

The downpipe and plog may or may not be. Headers might be required.

I suggest reading the following: http://www.grandprixforums.net/safely-modding-your-3800-a-67580.html

A big emphasis should be placed on scanning, and adjusting pulley based on what you see. Not so much what others say you should be "normal".
 
Thanks Matt, the link was really helpful. I think I have decided on a DIY intake as well as a plog with a ZZP downpipe+cat in order to fit with the stock exhaust along with the plugs and wires. I'm just worried chopping the end off the intake box might cause more particle and debris getting into the filter and box. I'm gonna try to have the engine scanned for KR like the link suggested just in case. Sound good? I'm not worried with the pulley quite yet.
 
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Sure.

Most people just put a filter on the throttle body. So I wouldn't be overly concerned about an opened up stock box. After having each style of intake, I'd say get an AEM or Amsoil filter and put it on some length of pipe to move it slightly away from the engine. Look to frozen boost for 4" and silicone couplers. 3.75" to 4" will work nicely with the stock throttle body.
 
Don't start with anything engine related with exception of maintance. I would suggest you upgrade the brakes to LS1 and start on your suspension. There's very few that will recommend that here, but those that do mod smarter.
 
Even the 12" rotor upgrade and some hawk pads would be nice. The LS1 calipers don't offer that much more braking force compared to the 12" rotor w/ stock caliper.

Suspension wise, new front LCAs, some non-stock trailing arms, and some nice shocks. Bilsteins if you have the money, if not, KYB Excel-G/GR2. Avoid AGX, they're very hit or miss.
 


matt5112 said:
If you want to keep it, and make power: the transmission.

If you want to make just a little more power, downpipe/plog or headers and a smaller pulley.

List of things you don't need:

Tune, intake, throttle body spacer, catback etc.
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Yeah Matt, about that transmission... Mine is shot and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. I'm leaning towards a rebuild. If I understand right, I can use the stock transmission with future mods including headers, intake, tune, 3.4, ported blower housing, right? According to the safely modding your 3800 thread, I could even install 1.9's or a VS cam and still be okay with the stock transmission, did I understand that right? I probably won't do the cam or rockers, but i'd rather have my transmission rebuilt in such a way to give me the option if I want it. Thanks.
 
I'd honestly never suggest having a 4t65e being rebuilt to factory specs.

It's not worth your money when for a little more, sometimes less, you can have a transmission built to last for your modifications.

Think horsepower numbers, and how hard you want to launch when thinking about transmission durability. If you don't aspire to very much of either, a street/strip trans will likely outlast your car.
 


Yeah I don't really expect very many WOT launches, but probably tons and tons of 2/3 or 3/4 throttle launches. And I don't know what the HP numbers will be really. I've looked at some of the TEP transmissions, and some Jaspers etc, but when you pay the core charge and the shipping, and the shipping for the core too, it's way out of my budget. The transmission shops around here know how to build them back stock, but don't want to talk about modifying them. I think the street strip TEP is like 1800 or so, and that's a bit of a stretch, but I could make it if a guy around here could build mine like it without the shipping and core charges.
 
Daveliz99 said:
Yeah I don't really expect very many WOT launches, but probably tons and tons of 2/3 or 3/4 throttle launches. And I don't know what the HP numbers will be really. I've looked at some of the TEP transmissions, and some Jaspers etc, but when you pay the core charge and the shipping, and the shipping for the core too, it's way out of my budget. The transmission shops around here know how to build them back stock, but don't want to talk about modifying them. I think the street strip TEP is like 1800 or so, and that's a bit of a stretch, but I could make it if a guy around here could build mine like it without the shipping and core charges.
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So you are planning on modding? Just realize the transmission is on borrowed time. If you don't build it, eventually you will end up paying more for multiple stock rebuilds. Then again if you go turbo it won't matter if you "build" the transmission it will still take a dump. I have a sincere hate for the 4T65E-HD, but I'll be damned if I don't love my turbo ****box.
 
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