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TCS/ABS Light on again

Felix

New member
Having some trouble with a 2002 GP GTP. As I accelerated from a red light the car kind of buckled, RPM dropped from 2000 something all the way down to almost 1000, car slowed down as if a wheel was stuck or brakes were pressed. Next thing I know my TCS Light is on. Got home, turned the car off, started it up again and now both my ABS and TCS is on.
Parts I've replaced within the last year
All 4 wheel bearings
2 Front LCAs
All four shocks/struts
Tie rod ends
CV Axles

and bunch of other parts but, but what could of caused my lights go on again? I used only Timken/Moog parts.

Engine felt like it wanted to die, but after about 2 seconds the car was driving fine and usually, other than the TCS/ABS lights are on now.
 


What would I need? I dont have a code reader. Would an engine code reader work for the tcs/abs lights?
 
Not all readers will pull ABS codes. My local Advanced Auto does have a reader that they'll do for you...at no charge.

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For an ABS/TCS light I'd check both front wiring harnesses at the hub. Not sure if the 02's have a separate harness from the hub to the main loom but they run across the top of the LCA. Often the wires get corroded and break inside the insulation (dry wire). I had this issue on my 00 GT and had to cut out 3" of wire back from the plug at the hub to get clean copper. Eventually just replaced the harness and no more issues.

The only place I've found to scan for ABS codes was a GM dealer ($75) with their Tech II. If you can find a local parts store to do it for free then go for it.
 
Okay one slight problem now. Started her back up this morning and my ABS light turned off but my TCS Off light stays on. Am I still able to scan or?
 


Most likely it will come back on anyhow.

Something intermittent like that is either going to be the dreaded communication error that plagues our bosch abs modules, or most likely the wiring is corroded or degraded.

Mine was literally black for about a foot from the harness, and corroded all the way back to the module connector. Ended up replacing the module, quite a few pins, and wiring to fully solve. I doubt yours will be that severe though.

There's a kit you can buy from most auto parts stores to replace wiring and connector, or you can just get a good connector from the junk yard and be cheap, it's up to you.

Best code reader I've used to pin point abs and srs issues is launch easydiag 2.0 plus. The reviews look bad, but I've never had issues other than it's got a fairly steep learning curve for some and the support stinks, but it's by far the best bang for your buck for these and all engine data or codes for our vehicles.
 
Had same problem code from advance auto said no signal front right wheel. bearing was new got a new wiring harness on line from parts geek about 15 bucks found short by playing with wires about a foot from bearing plug.Spliced in new harness 6 months all good
 
Well just figured out what it was, was hoping for it to just be sensors, replaced em and nope still on. Went to a shop my buddy recommended and they had a tech II, scanned it for me for free. Its the ABS control module. Is this something I should get fixed or just replaced? I remember hearing about a guy that repairs these modules for our cars but I cant remember his name or his website.
 
There's a few people on ebay who repair this error for around $100, but it depends on how handy you are at the junkyard and what prices are like near you. The thread referenced talks about having the reprogram the abs, but I've personally replaced quite a few of these and the dealer laughed at me when I asked him to reprogram it. It's a direct swap. Replaced mine for around $30. Replaced the wiring while I was at it.
 


Doubt I would find anything worth picking up here in Wisconsin. Most Grand Prixs I see on the road have over 200k miles and most in the junkyard are way over that. But i'll see if I can find any below 150k miles. Thanks for the help guys.
 
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