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TCC Solenoid

S

scheuvront1993

New member
Hello all, I've tried using the search feature on this site as well as Google and I can not find a direct answer. I have a 2000 Grand Prix SE 3.1 4T65E. Where is the TCC solenoid located, and how do you replace it. I have some general knowledge on it, I know it is in the transmission, from what I understand you have to remove the pan on left side behind the wheel. So what all do I have to remove, am I correct about the location? All info is greatly appreciated. Thanks all.
 


How to transmission 4th gear side cover access
http://www.grandprixforums.net/showthread.php?t=54448
How to transmission 4th gear side cover access

Tells shows you how to pull side cover, and the location...this is for a 4th great replacement but the same steps to get side cover off, once side cover off switch out tcc solenoid..might want to go pcs solenoid while your in there but that requires a few more steps.
 
Hey timboku, I apologize I didn't get the chance to respond. Thank you very much for that info, it has helped me a GREAT deal. Anyhow, I decided about a week ago to go ahead and attempt this with my father. He's sort of hard headed and didn't want to listen to the proper way of doing it, and wouldn't let me really help at all. So he ended up removing ac lines, removing the linkage, bending AC lines out of the, and breaking off the TCC solenoid inside the transmission. He eventually got it out but if I'm correct you should lube them up with tranny fluid before reinserting, correct?... or it's at least a good idea. I know he didn't lube it and has to pound it in. He refused to drop the cradle... seeing no reason for it. So after 2 days it was all back together and running. I notice a difference right away. It seemed to have more power but at the same time it was slipping worse than it ever had. I went from one check engine code to NINE. Transmission over temp, gear ratio incorrect, 3-4 shift solenoid, some sort of AC code, lol. So here I am now, I bought the EPC solenoid, both shift solenoids, and the manifold pressure switch, plus I bought another TCC solenoid just to be safe. I asked my father to help me again but he believes the engine will have to be pulled to do it. So it's sitting in my back yard about halfway done. I've got all bolts removed except, the four T 40 star heads on the bottom, I can't seem to get them out. I tried using an impact gun but it will not budge them, I tried using just a regular ratchet and it rounded out 2 of them, I soaked them in PB blaster for a good while first. I'm trying to think of some sort of solution. Any help would be great thanks.
 
There is a c clip thing that holds the sensor in iirc. Did he remove that before pulling the solenoid? If he didn't part of it is still in the valve body and could be causing all your issues...as for the bolt removal, mine came out easy. You need to drop the cradle on that side it's way easier and I'm not sure how yiu get to those bolts with out dropping then.
 
Yeah cradle needs to be dropped, I don't even know how you can get the side cover off without doing so. Remove the two rack bolts that secure it to the sub frame, Loosen the right 2 sub frame bolts, remove the left two. While supporting the engine and trans of course. Bill's method was from above, I used a 2x4 spanning across both pans held by a floor jack. The rest is fairly obvious, get the cv axle, trans mount, and suspension stuff out of the way to make it easy. The only things under the hood you have to watch are the throttle cables, the trans cooler lines, and shift cable. And remove the upper mounts too. The ac line on the GT's just has to be pushed slightly out of the way, not bent or anything.

You should check out the whole harness, he might have butchered it and left it. The clips often break. Yes there are clips you pull with a pick to get the solenoids out, I believe the pump has to be removed to do the TCC since the clip is behind it.

Get the remaining torx out with a good bit and make sure no dirt is in the bolt, give it a tap with the hammer and use leverage if you have to. They don't usually strip if you can keep the extension straight. Luckily the heads are flat you you can get vice grips on it possibly.


Side cover bolts
DSC05160%20Custom.jpg


There is nothing holding the subframe, it just swings freely as there is no more weight on it.
DSC05162%20Custom.jpg



Clip for the tcc solenoid, hidden behind the pump. If yours looks like this, remove the pump by removing all the bolts for it except the silver one.
DSC05172%20Custom.jpg
 
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I made this video, it's the reassembly from the 4th clutch hub. Start at 6:35 to see what you will deal with.
 
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Thanks all for the fast reply, I wasn't very clear... My father is not helping me this time.. lol. I'm doing it myself, I am dropping the cradle and have already done so. I'm almost finished just need to get those darn star heads off. The fist time we had it apart they came right out no issue whatsoever. Now they refuse to budge, vice grips will be the next move. Just wondering what type of metal those bolts are made of. Also, my father never completely removed the pan, Just had a big enough gap to see the solenoids. He then yanked it out, and broke it in half. He did see the clip after it broke and I guess somehow got it out without removing pump. I assume he didn't get the clip back in, Will that clip not being there affect it much? If so does anyone know where I can get one? Thanks everyone for the help.
 
Oh I see he did it the hard way. Impressive. Anyway the clip is what holds the solenoid in, it likely popped out and caused slipping. see if you can find it first.
Oh, and all bolts are made of steel. The transmission is aluminum. hopefully its not stripped.
 
Hey fellas, the vice grips were a no go. They wouldn't exactly fit in the spot. I called local guy who used to do load of transmission work, he has a set of speed outs he told me I could borrow, so I'll see how that works, he also recommended using a chisel to put an edge on the bolts. I personally thought about welding a nut onto the bolt and using a regular socket to remove them.
 
The chisel idea should work, just like 02 said, watch that you don't completely gouge up the cover. When you put it back together, you don't need to Kill those bolts with tightness either. IIRC the torque spec is like 18 or 24 foot pounds at most. You risk cracking the cover if you overtighten them! and Tighten the 2 "guide" bolts first. one has a slotted hole on the left side and one has a smaller hole on the lower right side. These 2 help line up the rest and make tightening them easier and less prone to breakage.
 


I have used the chisel on these bolts many times.

Then I walk over to the parts case and use regular bolts when replacing them. (Cause I've pulled too many apart and have spares).
 
Good news everyone! I finally got the last 4 bolts out... kinda. I broke 2 heads off but at least the pan will come off now. It shouldn't be too hard to get the others out. I'm hoping to get it all done and put back together tomorrow. I tried the chisel but the one I had was entirely too big so that was a no go. I borrowed some speedouts from a local mechanic, those didn't really work out but did help bore out the hole to allow a large drill bit to fit in, so I ended up using easy outs and they worked like a charm. Also 02NavyBlue, I see you have flipped dog bones, do you notice a difference? I'm considering doing this to mine once it's up and running.
 
Hello all once again, I just got started working on the GP and I found that the sway bar is rusted in half... so that's fun, also how do you get that electrical connector at the top of the pan disconnected?
 


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