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T88 Turbo



Skip forged crap... Stock L67 + E85 = racekar block for the cheap! Go forged and you screw the pooch and blow it, probably never hear from you again as that is the norm it seems.

Invest all your time and money in a trans / converter setup that will take the abuse.

If not street driving, remove 4th, remove ISS for hall effect sensor setup, get all the tricks done. Remove things not needed so can't break them.

Expect to rebuild/refresh the trans no matter what you do.

T88 is retarded, go T72-T76 if your goals are low 9's.. its been done, do what works, not what looks cool or works for other complete different setups.

Invest in a external fuel supply. Weldon, Magnafuel, or lastly Aeromotive if don't mind replacing it ever few outings and waiting for a new pump.

Say good bye to a **** ton of money :)
 
After much consideration and input I'm thinking I'll just do a T72. Spoke to a couple race shops and they've all told me pretty much the same thing, not a good idea.
 
You will make as much or more power, and have more useable powerband with a new style billet 6766, or 6466. The old cast wheel turbos are way behind the new tech stuff. Both 64 and 67 are rated for 900+ hp, and will be in boost sooner than a t72, and be way funner to drive. Any of the turbos will break transmissions at will.
 
Ya a 6466 is pretty small especially if you are cammed, what is your ar on the hot side? . 69 hopefully not
 


Why do sooooo many people insist on doing forged internals!?! It hurts my brains because several people have made 700+++WHP on stock bottom end. No reason to waste money on unobtanium rods and pistons. Like Decker said, it ain't no wimpy honda/subaru motor.
 
Also, hell no to the T88. Its way to big. It won't work. 68-78mm turbos seems to be the sweet spot for our motors.
 


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