• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Sythetic VS Regular 5W30

Scimmia said:
God, I hate these discussions on regular car forums, they are always so full of speculation, rumor, and outright misinformation. I'm trying to stay out of it, but I'll just chime in about 5W-30 vs 10W-30. They are both 30 weight oils, so what does it matter?!? The 5W will be thinner at very low temps, but that's it.

If anyone's actually interested in learning about engine oils, go to the forums on Welcome
Click to expand...


Thanks for chiming in on that i was about to say the same thing
 


Bob is the Oil Guy is a pretty decent site, but whether intentional or not has some misinformation. Your best bet is to talk to someone who works in an analysis department and get your info from the horse's mouth.
 
Yeah I do too. I'm sure everyone knows that synthetics are better for wear resistance, better performance, and a cleaner engine. But like they said, you pay for it.

Anyone heard of pennzoil adding wax to their conventional oil. Engines that run those are stained gold inside! So there are better brands. Now that's thinkin' with your dipstick!
 
Here is what my engine looked like after running RP for only a little over a year. Clean:

DSC02744.jpg


DSC02748.jpg


DSC02745.jpg


My STI is getting the same treatment.
 


I'm using amsoil 5w30 and amsoil oil filter, going by the oil life indicator in the DIC, once it tells me its time to change oil I will, not before. I will send the old oil to blackstone labs for anaylisis and post my results
 
tod1d said:
I'm using amsoil 5w30 and amsoil oil filter, going by the oil life indicator in the DIC, once it tells me its time to change oil I will, not before. I will send the old oil to blackstone labs for anaylisis and post my results
Click to expand...

Yeah same here I go by the DIC not miles.
 


BoostJunki3 said:
go by miles the DIC is off and a piece of shyt...
Click to expand...

Incorrect. GM spent millions of dollars developing the oil life monitor. Lots of oil analysis done examining factors like engine load, engine temp, operating time, mileage, etc. It's quite accurate. I had my analysis done on some dino oil when the oil life monitor said about 10%, and the analysis agreed. It can be trusted.
 
Sabrewings said:
Incorrect. GM spent millions of dollars developing the oil life monitor. Lots of oil analysis done examining factors like engine load, engine temp, operating time, mileage, etc. It's quite accurate. I had my analysis done on some dino oil when the oil life monitor said about 10%, and the analysis agreed. It can be trusted.
Click to expand...

ive heard different but your a pretty knowledgeable guy so i guess i stand corrected :th_thumbsup-wink:
 
Anyone who thinks differently should present the analysis reports. Most people don't trust it because they don't know oil and don't understand how the OLM works.
 
DIC oil monitoring system is not accurate. It might be for conventional, but definitely not Synthetic. I ran 8k on my 2nd to last batch of Mobile 1 EP and my OIL Analyzers report showed a high silicone content. This was do to my K&N air filter ripped against my PCM. I have since replaced that filter with a new AEM dry flow and Ran Mobile 1 EP around 12k and it was time for an oil change based off my OIL ANALYZERS REPORT.

This is who I use
Oil Analyzers, Inc. - Analysis Program Details
 


Sabrewings said:
It's used in a lot of the trucks at work. The dye is broken down and dissolved in the first few hundred miles. If the Air Force goes out of their way to use it at the recommendation of the analysis dept (does analysis on all engine oil, including gasoline, diesel, and jet turbine engines), then I will definitely run it in my car.
Click to expand...

I don't really care what people in a lab say about how good a oil is. I see what happens in a race engine when Royal purple is used.
Your motor looks clean inside so I assume it was treated decent. I'm sure your engine isn't turning 6000-7000 rpm almost every minute of it's life. I don't remember the last time I started my pull truck motor to hook to a sled and go for a Sunday cruise, down by the lake. J/k
Like I said in my first post, it should not cause much of a problem in our cars. I'm afraid it will turn to tar in my truck or my race car so I won't put it in them. I use the oil I order for my race cars in my GP I know its good stuff.
I have four seasons on my BBC and the only thing that I do to it is change valve springs every year put new plugs in and adjust rockers every weekend. I still have 70psi of oil pressure at idle hot so I don't even worry about pulling the pan and checking the bearings. I might pull the pan this winter but I doubt it. Just put new heads and cam in it and put it back on the dyno.
Back on track, as far as the Synthetic VS Regular oil goes I would look for a oil with Moly or ZDDP in it. The only why to find them is in race oils. Damn Government took all the good stuff out of your off the shelf oils.
 
JJ91284 said:
DIC oil monitoring system is not accurate. It might be for conventional, but definitely not Synthetic. I ran 8k on my 2nd to last batch of Mobile 1 EP and my OIL Analyzers report showed a high silicone content. This was do to my K&N air filter ripped against my PCM. I have since replaced that filter with a new AEM dry flow and Ran Mobile 1 EP around 12k and it was time for an oil change based off my OIL ANALYZERS REPORT.
Click to expand...

It's not going to detect a problem like your air filter. It has no sensors or anything of that sort. It simply measures engine load, engine temps, RPMs, mileage, etc to determine when the oil should be changed. If your air filter is messed up that's your own fault.

It also assumes you're running dino oil so for synthetic users when it goes off you could most likely go longer. The OLM is no replacement for real analysis though.

felonygtp said:
I don't really care what people in a lab say about how good a oil is. I see what happens in a race engine when Royal purple is used.
Your motor looks clean inside so I assume it was treated decent. I'm sure your engine isn't turning 6000-7000 rpm almost every minute of it's life. I don't remember the last time I started my pull truck motor to hook to a sled and go for a Sunday cruise, down by the lake.
Click to expand...

To be fair, most professional racers do not use any off the shelf oils, including synthetic. Normal every day automotive oil is not intended for those conditions. So calling out one brand because it doesn't work properly in conditions it wasn't designed for is a little outside reason.
 
Scimmia said:
God, I hate these discussions on regular car forums, they are always so full of speculation, rumor, and outright misinformation. I'm trying to stay out of it, but I'll just chime in about 5W-30 vs 10W-30. They are both 30 weight oils, so what does it matter?!? The 5W will be thinner at very low temps, but that's it.

If anyone's actually interested in learning about engine oils, go to the forums on www.bobistheoilguy.com
Click to expand...

thinner in the colder regions = easier starts..just my .02
 
Okay...Im soooo confused!!! Someone PLEASE clarify this! I was always told..the thicker the oil.. as in 10w-30 the better for colder area..as in up North...Not only was I told this but reading around I noticed almost everyone from up North runs 10W-30! And you would think you would want a thicker oil in the winter...not the summer. I have read up on this after reading this forum and some say heavier is better in the winter and some say noo its needed for the summer..So someone who knows can you please clarify this!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top