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Swaybar Sizes



RonaldVPopowich said:
How about frame material? The 2005 l am working on is made with aluminum structure where the stabilizer bar and control arms mount. Would be a disaster if the heavy bar bent that structure. Are the non- 2004-5 vehicles made with aluminum?
Click to expand...
I have an aluminum subframe with that same Dorman bar. If you get the 97-03 LCAs and endlinks, you'll be golden!
 
Good to hear, Scotty and Booba. Dorman 927100 on order. Scotty, you have part # for the Moog bushings? Avoid the argument with the part guy ... Thanx!
Will keep y'all apprised of progress ...
 
they sell 3 sizes. iirc its the middle one. test fit the bar with the new bushing at the store. its a standard bushing, and a metric bar.
 
Torque specs for the following?
Control arm to frame, vertical and horizontal bolts;
Ball joint to aluminium steering knuckle plus additional degrees;
Front bearing hub to aluminium steering knuckle?
 


TIGHT for all of the above.

if your not a bolt breaking fool, you know where tight is. turn the bolt in till it stops, snug it, then maybe 1/4 turn more. once its tight you'll know it. any more and the bolt will break.
 
Parts installed, inspection performed, and test drive completed:

Parts:
Dorman 927-100 Stabilizer Shaft Kit;
Moog K80815 Bushing Kit, bushings supplied by Dorman are rather soft;
ACDelco Control Arms: Left: 45D3385, Right: 45D3389, note that they DO NOT come with bolted on ball joints as currently depicted in ACDelco's online catalogue;
ACDelco Bearing Hubs: FW293.

Torque specs from manual, important due to use of Aluminum - excessive torque will deform Aluminum and lead to fastener loosening.
Thoroughly CLEAN ALL MATING surfaces of residue to ensure torque is not wasted on material that will loosen under vibration.
Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle: 15 lbft + 120Degrees. Be cautious separating as to not damage sealing surface, use proper lever separation tool and may require slight impact on body of Steering Knuckle with small hammer. Clean Ball Joint Boot sealing surface. Align hole in ball joint stud parallel to front-back prior to insertion into Steering Knuckle to aid cotter pin insertion, DO NOT loosen castellated nut to align.
Control Arm to Frame: 92 lbft.
Strut Upper Mount to Body: 24 lbft. Loosened and two inboard of three removed to allow Strut Assembly to be moved about to aid in Stabilizer Shaft and Control Arm removal and placement. Check the one nut occasionally so that it remains fully threaded, the top of the bolt is at the top of the nut, so that the Strut Assembly does not fall out!
Wheel Bearing to Steering Knuckle: 96 lbft. Apply thread lock. DO NOT pinch Drive Shaft CV Joint Boot!!! Requires turning the steering wheel lock to lock to gain access with torque wrench. Use of a universal joint socket recommeded.
Drive Shaft Nut: 118 lbft. Ensure to clean shaft splines, scrape with a cold chisel works well, and lightly apply anti-seize. Previous work did not fully seat shoulder of shaft to bearing hub allowing water ingress and much corrosion - required propane torch and 3 lb hammer with pointed punch to separate; thus bearing hubs compromised.
Front Brake Caliper to Steering Knuckle: 133 lbft. Apply thread lock. Requires turning the steering wheel lock to lock to gain access with torque wrench.
Stabilzer Shaft to Control Arm Link: 44 lbft, just as the nut reaches end of threads.
Stabilizer Shaft Bracket to Frame: 22 lbft.

Inspection:
Good clearances with weight on wheels: Stabilizer Shaft ends to Tie Rod and Drive Shaft, Stabilizer Shaft midpoint to exhaust.
Good position with weight on wheels: Stabilizer Shaft is approximately horizontal and centred within bushings.
All appears as attached diagram.

Test Drive:
Solid feel with no clunks or other untoward sounds or vibration.
Body roll greatly reduced. Perhaps will be reduced further with installation of better Stabilizer Shaft Links.
Considering old tires and requirement for alignment, easily exceed tire traction under hard cornering. Have to see how alignment and new rubber performs.

So far, a success ...

Update:
Added better stabilizer shaft links, Moog K5342 - tighten nuts to end of threads, alignment, and new rubber.
A few months of driving.

Pleased to report that cornering performance is greatly improved, very flat.
 

Attachments

  • Pontiac Grand Prix GT Front Suspension with Heavy Stabilzer Bar.jpg
    Pontiac Grand Prix GT Front Suspension with Heavy Stabilzer Bar.jpg
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Just need to throw it out there, the first post should be edited for the Dorman sway bar, it's actually a 33mm bar, at least where the bushing mounts.
 


nik12937 said:
Just need to throw it out there, the first post should be edited for the Dorman sway bar, it's actually a 33mm bar, at least where the bushing mounts.
Click to expand...

The GMPP Swaybar is 33.3 mm where the bushing mounts. It is 34 mm on the ends. It is a hollow bar with solid ends just like the F-Body WS6/SS bars. The Dorman should be similar.

Energy bushings/greasable -9.5167-33 mm Advanced Auto online will price match. Cheapest is Energysuspension.com-15.99 for bushings and 8.99 for end link bushings and 15.99 for whole end link.
End links-2. options:
1. use just the bushing and use the GMPP end link hardware
Part# 9.8105
2. or use the entire Energy end link Part #-9.8122-this one I have not verified. After a search it was posted that this is what he used on his GMPP bar.
 
browsed this thread over, does the GMPP front sway bar fit 04 gp without converting to the other style control arms? If not, what front sway bar is there that I can without switching LUCAs
 
Just measured my front sway bar, it is .811 in. and it is solid. I was going to install these for the bushings and these into my stock LCAs. I have to stay with my small sway bar unless I install 97-03 LCAs? Is there anything I can do for the back?

EDIT: It seems the 04 did come with front sway bars around 21mm for some reason. Is there any way to put a larger sway bar in with out replacing the LCAs with 97-04s?
 
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I ordered the new ball joints for the LCA mount, still looking for 97-03 LCAs and a aftermarket swaybar. What cars should I be looking at to find a larger swaybar when at the junkyard? I saw some 97-03 GPs and montes will after market end links but I didn't have my caliper with me to measure the swaybar(one had a FAC tag on the swaybar).
 
What other W-bodies should I be looking at that could possibly have aftermarket parts, 97-03 GP, 00-05 Montes and Impalas? If I can't find a bar can I still order a GMP from the dealership? Also, should I change out the rear or just live it stock with the ball and socket end link setup?
 
Checking out the junkyard today and noticed that a 2007 GP (non-GT car)had an enormous front sway(about 1 1/2'' thick) compared to my 2004 GT which has about a 7/8'' front bar. Does anyone know if these interchange?
Another problem I have is that the front sway bar links are horrible-I've replaced them 3 times in two years as soon as the car starts making all kinds of front end noise over bumps. It seems to me that end links are not nearly strong enough to do the job. My car has the end links that attach the bar to the strut. Does anybody have a line on endlinks that have the right angle heim joint at each end and are very strong?
Thanks.
 
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