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Swapping Trans, year to year differences?

C

ColinWilson1980

New member
Good afternoon, after looking for a good tech forum, this looks like the place to be.

I have a 2001 Regal LS that I bought for the wife after buying my 99 LS and really enjoying it. When I bought the car it seemed like first gear had a slight slip, but since it would shift into second gear by 15-20kph it never seemed like a real concern. Unfortunately yesterday on the way home from getting groceries that slipping sound turned into a crunch, which then turned into a bang, which then turned into pushing the car up the driveway.

Now from what I've gathered from Wikipedia, the transmissions that correspond with my 4T65E with a final drive of 3.05 and MN3 converter, I can pull one out of a 97-04 Regal w/ 3.8, 97-05 Park Ave w/ 3.8 or 99-02 Intrigue w/ 3.5. Also it looks like it was possible to get a 3.05 in a Buick LeSabre, and just use my converter.

What I'm looking to find out, is were there any year to year changes on that list that would make it less than a direct swap to the 2001?

I really appreciate any advice or suggestions.

Cheers.
 


Anyone able to provide some input?

I have found two transmissions locally, one being from a 2000 Regal, with the code APB, and one from a 2000 Olds Intrigue with a code YMB. I plan to pull the old one this weekend, but can anyone give me a reason why either of those may or may not be a direct replacement?
 
The only issue you may run into with the regal trans, would be the trans cooler line connections (your 99 may have screw in fittings, while the 00+ will have push clip style).

The intrique trans could have a different final drive as it is mated to a different motor. It may be the same so you would have nothing to worry about. Also the final drive is a pretty easy swap.... a few bolts and 20 minutes could get it swapped out.

Torque converters will be of no concern.... anything you get will be close enough.
 
darkhorizon said:
The only issue you may run into with the regal trans, would be the trans cooler line connections (your 99 may have screw in fittings, while the 00+ will have push clip style).

The intrique trans could have a different final drive as it is mated to a different motor. It may be the same so you would have nothing to worry about. Also the final drive is a pretty easy swap.... a few bolts and 20 minutes could get it swapped out.

Torque converters will be of no concern.... anything you get will be close enough.
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I should have specified, it's the 2001 Regal that will be receiving the new transmission. Final drive in both of them is 3.05 so we're good there.

I've also been thinking of using a Grand Prix transmission, and simply taking the final drive from hers and putting it in, as availability seems to be greater.
 
Scott..I think it's the 01 in question. I know..99 is also mentioned
ColinWilson1980 said:
I have a 2001 Regal LS
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The trans cooler lines shouldn't be an issue.
The only potential issue I see si that the 00 might be external park/neutral switch and the 01 might be internal. If so..this isn't a huge problem. It's pretty easily solved, but it's one potential thing.

As for the final drive ratio. I'm pretty sure that the Intrigue being a W body like the Regal .. would also get the 3.05. You can also use Bonneville as a donor.

If you look at your transmissiion where the cable is hooked to the arm to tell it which gear to move into..is there a black item under that arm or is there nothing around the shaft? That's the PNP switch I was speaking about.
 


BillBoost37 said:
If you look at your transmissiion where the cable is hooked to the arm to tell it which gear to move into..is there a black item under that arm or is there nothing around the shaft? That's the PNP switch I was speaking about.
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I'll take a look before it comes out this weekend.

If they are different, what all needs to be changed? Or is a move from trans to trans before installation?
 
I would like to think the 01 would have an internal switch and the 00's might have an external. Although I'm better on the years of that stuff with Bonnevilles than Regal/GP.

Take a look. I've done a write up in the past to add an external to a car that expects an internal, because one stopped working and it was easier to add it on than pull the transmission open.

As for the final drive swap.. it's super easy. Two bolts and one screw driver/hammer hit and it's swapped.
 
BillBoost37 said:
I would like to think the 01 would have an internal switch and the 00's might have an external. Although I'm better on the years of that stuff with Bonnevilles than Regal/GP.

Take a look. I've done a write up in the past to add an external to a car that expects an internal, because one stopped working and it was easier to add it on than pull the transmission open.

As for the final drive swap.. it's super easy. Two bolts and one screw driver/hammer hit and it's swapped.
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Perfect, I'll take a look.

I really appreciate the input, thanks a lot.
 
I thought the valve bodies were different from certain years?

Regal- (2000-2002) (2003) (2004)?
 
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There is a major valve body difference in the middle of 99 as well. The PC solenoid operation changed, as well as the valvebody.

I have never had a "post 99" valvebody (aka valvebody B) work correctly on a 97-98pcm/bin file.... I also have had issues running 00+ pcm's on 97-early99 transmissions.

You can typically tell valvebody differences by looking at the transmission fittings, but it is not always a perfect tell... Obviously the push in fittings will be the later style valvebody.
 
Well I definitely appreciated all of the feedback, as well as BillBoost37's write ups. I ended up finding a trans from an 01 Regal, and it ended up only costing me $30 more, so seemed like the smart way to go. About 12 more hours than it should have taken it's finally back on the road.

Now the question I have now, is that when it went back in, I have a feeling that I caught and broke a vacuum line that is associated with the heating system. The check engine light is on, and I think that it will be the exact same code as my 99 is showing since we did the intake gaskets last week, which we've determined is a post-MAF vac leak, although this car doesn't stall when it goes into closed loop.

I've done some google searches, but can't find a vacuum diagram for the car. The sticker under the hood only shows the one line from the TB to the EVAP, and nothing to do with the rest of the car.

Reason I'm pretty sure that is my problem, as after I put the motor and trans back in the car on Sunday (out and back in from the top) I found a broken piece of vacuum line that had a cap on it that looked factory that was on the floor at the back - driver's side of the engine bay.

EDIT: To add to that reasoning, when the car is up to operating temperature with a full cooling system, it only blows moderate heat.
 
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There aren't any vacuum lines that effect the amount of heat you get. The actuators for the blend door(s) are electronic. They do have to relearn after a battery unhook and may get a little confused depending on the year.

I rememmber reading about 97's having a count movement of 0-90 or something and the 98's were updated to 0-250 which kept them from forgetting/having bigger issues.
 


BillBoost37 said:
There aren't any vacuum lines that effect the amount of heat you get. The actuators for the blend door(s) are electronic. They do have to relearn after a battery unhook and may get a little confused depending on the year.

I rememmber reading about 97's having a count movement of 0-90 or something and the 98's were updated to 0-250 which kept them from forgetting/having bigger issues.
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Understood, thanks for that. I will try to find the broken piece and take a picture, although no matter how many different search terms I use, I can't find what I'm looking for.
 
Well..if you have broken vacuum stuff. Look on the backside of the big black plenun, following the brake booster hose over...the piece that goes into the black plenum/manifold has a T off it typically.
 
Yeah, I'm thinking that on the 99 I may have cracked the small one that goes around the passenger side of the engine bay, it was still pretty cold (-15/20 C) when we started taking it apart.

Actually are there any of them that absolutely need to be hooked up for normal operations? If it's not needed I'd like to cap it and see if the issue goes away, and then hook it back up and see if it comes back.
 
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