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Swaping engine and trans from top ( first timer)

yup, just back the nuts off some pull the pipe to make a crack 1/2 inch if you can get it that large. fire it up see if it will run longer then it has been. you can drive it, will sound like crap but can be driven some.

and there should be no smoke out your exhaust at all.
 


Ok I got the pipe seperated a good 1/3 of an inch, sounded like a hot rod but still turned off after trying three times. I didn't mention before that smoke was coming out of the muffler in a normal way before doing this check not sure if that matters.
 
P0418 is your secondary air pump solenoid.
The p0420 is the o2 after the cat. It just measures the change between the frost and 2nd sensor to make sure the cat is working.

The p0420 has only tripped for me when I removed the cat or the secondary o2 sensor died.

Normally you can use a spark plug non fouler and space it out of the exhaust flow so it won't trip but you have a stock exhaust system. So there is no need to trick the ecu. You need to find out the cause for this.

Is the air pump causing your car to stall? I never dealt with one before
 


ive not heard of the air pump or a rear o2 sensor make it stall out.


let it run till it stalls, leave the key to run and check for fuel pressure at the rail again, gas should spray out, not just dribble out.
 
Scottydoggs said:
ive not heard of the air pump or a rear o2 sensor make it stall out.


let it run till it stalls, leave the key to run and check for fuel pressure at the rail again, gas should spray out, not just dribble out.
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i tried this yesterday when you told me to check it and it sprayed out.
 


sounding like a beat fuel pump. sadly i think your year the tank has to be dropped.

reach under the car and beat on the bottom of the gas tank, some times it shocks the pump back to life for a while.
 
not at all. its pretty easy really, pinch 2 or 3 hose ends and pull them off the pump top, unplug two plugs, remove a clamping ring and its comes out.

the only cutting would be if you want to cut a hole in the trunk to get to the pump, instead of dropping the gas tank.

how 97-05 iirc are, theres a panel you unbolt in the trunk floor near the back seat and the pump is under it.
 
Scottydoggs said:
not at all. its pretty easy really, pinch 2 or 3 hose ends and pull them off the pump top, unplug two plugs, remove a clamping ring and its comes out.

the only cutting would be if you want to cut a hole in the trunk to get to the pump, instead of dropping the gas tank.

how 97-05 iirc are, theres a panel you unbolt in the trunk floor near the back seat and the pump is under it.
Click to expand...
I was just watching a yt vid of a guy with a gp in those years who had similar symptoms i saw him working through the trunk. I guess he was losing power when accelerating at high speeds. is there anyway to be more sure this could be the culprit?
 
typically if theres no pressure after it stalled, the pump is bad. thing is they will work sporadically.

you can get a free rental fuel pressure gauge from a parts store and hook it up and watch the pressure as its running and stalling, the engine needs a min of 32 psi to run. if its lower then that, then drops off and it stalls the pump sounds bad for sure.


and for fun, the large harness plug on the lim from the coils, unplug it and plug it back in 3 times, see if that clears it up. i just had a issue with that plug myself, it kills the fuel pump. but i had some messed up codes pop up with it. never know, worth a shot.
 


theres a few plugs near the valve cover, the biggest one to the far left next to the coils, undo that one a few times to clear out the plug connection
 
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