• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Swaping engine and trans from top ( first timer)

i wish i could say that...still stuck on the driver side ball joint, with about 300 pounds standing on the bar thats over lca and intense hammer banging it still doest give me enough space to remove that nut. The passenger side was cake.

is this step necessary in an 07? Im not sure how this joint impedes the removal of the axle, its not in the way of it. Im sure its for a good reason i hope.
 


the other way to go about it is to unbolt the strut from the knuckle. but that will mess with the alignment some. best to either scribe a line around the strut on the knuckle, or marker, paint it something to make sure its back where you started.

if you dont break one side or the other free theres not enough room to pop and remove the axle from the tranny.
 
Thanks to everyone who's been helping, I'll update tomorrow. I think I'll be trying that method, I really pounded the hell out of it with weight on top I thought I would break something.
 
Do you have an air hammer? Use an air hammer with a blunt tip to vibrate it while prying it apart. Other option (but it may damage the ball joint) is to use a pickle fork on the air hammer and pop the joint apart. An air hammer with a pickle fork will pop the ball joint easily but probably damage it.
 
No air tools but will def be getting some just hand tools for now.

I wanted to verify that i needed to remove the rod to right of rotor that runs on top of sway bar or not remove it before axle removal. I dont think i saw that specific part on the tutorial.
2ymbs74.jpg
 


you can take the tie rod end off the knuckle not always need tho. but, to remove it, take the nut off the bottom, turn the wheels so that flat part is facing out, then with a hammer give it a few good shots, the joint will pop free. you may see dents on the flat spot from when they were replaced in the past. if they have been replaced that is.
 
looks like 2 bolts bracket to engine, 3 bolts ac to the bracket. pick a set, dont matter. you also have a bracket on the back of the ac that needs to come off to free the ac 100%.
 


I def found the nut that leaks out the gas..I really want to skip this step..can i move on if i removed the 2 nuts (one was actually a bolt) that face the passenger side ?
 
on the pulley side? take the ac to bracket, or bracket to block off. it dont matter what set of bolts your remove to get it off.

the rear bracket has to come off, 4 bolts back there, dont undo the bolt to the lines and let the gas leak out, its not free to replace. why we take it off and lay it on the frame there.
 
I was just loosening whatever i saw on it since i have no clue what bolts are attaching the ac compressor to the bracket or the engine (i cant even tell the difference down there) gas seeped out for avout 10 seconds slowly. I know im going snail speed here trying to find a vid of how to remove the thing as we speak.

ive removed one nut and one bolt that seem to attach it on the pulley side so far.
 
may have to zoom in, but theres three nuts that hold the compressor on the C shaled bracket, one at the end of each part of the C and one in the middle.

dont have a pic of the back.

and you can see the two bolts that hold the bracket tot he engine too. either or will get it off.

002_zps7izvpwp6.jpg
 


Remove the splash shield. You can get all the nuts from the wheel well.
disconnect the power supply. Then swing it out of the way.

Then you can see the bracket
 
Thank you that pic helped i guess with mine there was a bolt behind compressor, so one bolt in the front and rear and one nut in front on to the next
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top