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Supercharger Fill Hole Bolt Stripped

^I only read page 1, and then posted. I didn't see the "fix" on page 2 with the bolt.

You for sure want an o-ring under the bolt head. If your not using the stock bolt...then you might want a bigger slightly beefier o-ring in there to fill up the space. It wont leak out...but it will seep out when it gets warm. You can always tell when you need a o-ring replacement.

~F~
 


Yeah, I noticed that the O-ring on the OEM bolt had taken on the shape of the recess, but I don think that would be a problem. I guess my main concern here is appearance. That bolt, while it works, is not the best looking thing in the world. For that reason Im keeping up the search for an alternative, even if it is just a much stronger socket cap replacement. As long as it isnt as prone to stripping out Im good with it.
 
the only thoght i had was one of the "socket head cap screws) (round outer head, hex on inside) but i'm not sure if the shoulder of the head would be big enough to cover the O-ring.

McMaster-Carr has them in 1/2 inch lengths in standard steel (regular bolt material) and 1 inch in Stainless.

here's the link to the drawing/specs... http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/framework.asp?reqTyp=cad&PN=91251A957&view=2D&size=2

it's P/N 91251A957 ... $5 for a box of 5.
 
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Toasty said:
the only thoght i had was one of the "socket head cap screws) (round outer head, hex on inside) but i can only seem to find them in 1 inch length, and not sure if the head would be large enough in diameter to hold the o-ring.
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Yeah, I was thinking of that as well. There are two types that I think could be used, but getting them in 3/4" length may be the trouble. First is called a Flat Socket Cap, like the one already there on the supercharger, or Socket Button Head.

I like the button head one, but I refuse to use another hex type socket unless it is sufficiently strong enough to resist being striped out.
 
SyntheticShield said:
Yeah, I was thinking of that as well. There are two types that I think could be used, but getting them in 3/4" length may be the trouble. First is called a Flat Socket Cap, like the one already there on the supercharger, or Socket Button Head.

I like the button head one, but I refuse to use another hex type socket unless it is sufficiently strong enough to resist being striped out.
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would a 12 point one be better or worse? i'd think better. --- I was thinking anyway, so i did some digging -- it appears that torque converter bolts for the GM TH350 & TH400 with most "aftermarket converters" use 7/16-20 threads. ARP makes 12 point bolts for this application, and the thread length is .725 part number is 230-7302. ARP makes a few other fasteners that would work as well, but this one seems right on. -summit carries these, obviously they come in a set of 3, and you dont need the washer or nut.
 

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Thank you Toasty. I ran across those, in fact I as searching on ebay for 7/16-20 bolts and found a few sets of those. They are kind a pricey, but I believe they would work well in this application. My only concern there would be could you get a wrench on one to get it out. But I figure if you can get a six point out, a 12 point wouldnt be any harder.

So I may order a set of these before it is all said and done. It would be more of an expense but you wouldnt have to worry about it ever stripping out again.
 


SyntheticShield said:
Thank you Toasty. I ran across those, in fact I as searching on ebay for 7/16-20 bolts and found a few sets of those. They are kind a pricey, but I believe they would work well in this application. My only concern there would be could you get a wrench on one to get it out. But I figure if you can get a six point out, a 12 point wouldnt be any harder.

So I may order a set of these before it is all said and done. It would be more of an expense but you wouldnt have to worry about it ever stripping out again.
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eh, buy a set and put the two spares in the yet-to-be-formed GPF.net store :)
 
True. I guess it depends on how much it all would be worth to you if one stripped out. I just dont want to replace it with something that is going to do the same thing down the road. True, I probably over tightened it, but even so, it isnt like you can torque that thing down with a hex wrench.

So it seems only fitting that a better solution be found, though it looks more and more than a proper fix will run around $7-8 with shipping and O-ring, maybe as high as $10 depending on how cheap I can get those ARP bolts.
 
SyntheticShield said:
True. I guess it depends on how much it all would be worth to you if one stripped out. I just dont want to replace it with something that is going to do the same thing down the road. True, I probably over tightened it, but even so, it isnt like you can torque that thing down with a hex wrench.

So it seems only fitting that a better solution be found, though it looks more and more than a proper fix will run around $7-8 with shipping and O-ring, maybe as high as $10 depending on how cheap I can get those ARP bolts.
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dang. proper installation ftw.:)
 
Oh no doubt, I accept it. It was my own fault. But that bolt offers little room for any error and we cant have that. But you know, you put that thing in there, and you think "its sealing of some pretty crucial lubrication and I dont want it vibrating out" so you torque it a little to be certain it wont come out.At least with a hex head you can get enough grip that that should not be an issue if you did over tighten it some. You wouldnt have to worry about it stripping out.
 
SyntheticShield said:
Oh no doubt, I accept it. It was my own fault. But that bolt offers little room for any error and we cant have that. But you know, you put that thing in there, and you think "its sealing of some pretty crucial lubrication and I dont want it vibrating out" so you torque it a little to be certain it wont come out.At least with a hex head you can get enough grip that that should not be an issue if you did over tighten it some. You wouldnt have to worry about it stripping out.
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:D it certainly is tempting to give it "just a little more".
You could use a little dab of that Billy Mays putty and epoxy a small hexhead bolt in the current hole. j/k..I know I'm not being any help.:p
 


Thats not a bad idea and would be much cheaper. And when you get ready to fill it up again, just drill and tap it something different and easier to find, LOL
 
I meant make it permanent to begin with...I was kidding, but now I've got myself wondering. I could try this out on my sons GP so I don't potentially mess up my bolt.:D
 
I got my ARP torque converter bolts, 7/16-20 x 1/2", which on paper should be perfect. I go out to the garage try to put one in, it doesnt go. The bolt head is larger than a regular Grade 5 bolt and so you cannot get it to thread in.

So at this stage, it appears than an O ring and the 7/16-20 X 1 bolt I have will have to work. I think Im going to take a dremel to it and cut about 1/2" off and then find an O ring and give it a shot on my car.

I'll keep you posted as to how everything plays out.
 
SyntheticShield said:
I got my ARP torque converter bolts, 7/16-20 x 1/2", which on paper should be perfect. I go out to the garage try to put one in, it doesnt go. The bolt head is larger than a regular Grade 5 bolt and so you cannot get it to thread in.

So at this stage, it appears than an O ring and the 7/16-20 X 1 bolt I have will have to work. I think Im going to take a dremel to it and cut about 1/2" off and then find an O ring and give it a shot on my car.

I'll keep you posted as to how everything plays out.
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rut-roh Rorge!


how much to big are the heads?
 


Its not by a huge margin they are too big. I would be more than I would want to try and machine or clearance for, and given I already have a bolt that works, I'll just modify it length wise and be done with it.
 
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