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subs/amp smoking

Mirraco

Mirraco

One BadAzz GT Dawgg
I parked my car for a day, then got in it and drove it not even a half mile with the system up about half way, my other gp had blown coolant elbows and was bringing the parts to fix to where i parked the car.

I got back in my car with the system, then drove mabey 100 feet and the system just turned off, i have 04+ seats in the car with the system so i could see that the power cap and amp still were on, i was pretty confused.

parked it in my garage and popped the hood to see if i blew the inline fuse, it was fine, i looked back in my car and smoke was coming from the trunk..

i turned the car on and then noticed more smoke coming out of the back of the amp, but still no power to the subwoofer.

i instantly threw water on the amp, pulled the cords out of the amp and pulled my system out of the car, i know stupid with water, but ive had a car start on fire and burn all the way up and it wasnt happening with this one.

i took my power cable off the battery, but the power cap is still in the trunk on the power cords.

what did i do wrong here?? they are two alpine type r 12", hifonics 2200 watt amp wired to one ohm, power cap. I did the big 3 upgrade, 1 gauge wires throughout the car.

Really quite confused on how this happened and if i ****ed anything else up in my car, its a 01 gt with 56K miles, system was put in two months ago.
 


**** happens. take the cover off the amp and peak inside, pics also. also throw the cap in the garbage
 
Turbocharged400sbc said:
hifonics stable to 1 ohm? doubtfull
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the specs say its stable at one ohm, its hifonics brutus 2200 watt.

No fuses were blown, car smells like burnt electrical coming from the trunk i believe, must of been from the amp that was smoking and left odor in my car.
 


whats with all this hifonics hate? Of course its stable. I have a brutus that runs 1ohm all day long and has for 9 years.

take the dam cover off, you may find your problem. cap inside probably ruptured.
 
Out of curiosity, how did you set your gains? The correct way is with an oscilliscope, but tuning by ear can work, it's just difficult sometimes to tell when you've got clipping in lower frequencies. Either you had the gain adjusted too high, or you just got unlucky.

If you've got no warranty, I agree with ITHURTZ, remove the cover and look for any visible damage or burn marks. If it's just a capacitor, you could go ahead and take the board out and just solder in a new capacitor with the same ratings. There's always a chance it can be fixed, and if you do it yourself it can be done cheaply.
 
You can do the voltage formula with a meter but it's best to tune to by ear.
no one uses expensive scopes
if you can't tune by ear you shouldn't be concerned how it sounds anyways ;)
 


I can vouch for setting gains with a DMM. I set my gains with a DMM with my HU at like 85-90% volume with like a 50hz test tone iirc and haven't had problems with clipping or anything and iv run it for 6+ hours at those settings. I can notice if I go a few clicks more on the HU the speakers start to distort.

Sent from the Milky Way
 
crazyguy03 said:
You can do the voltage formula with a meter but it's best to tune to by ear.
no one uses expensive scopes
if you can't tune by ear you shouldn't be concerned how it sounds anyways ;)
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It's not even about sound quality. It's so you don't destroy hundreds or thousands of dollars in audio equipment.

Tuning audio by ear, is exactly like tuning AFR by smell. Sure maybe you can tell when it's way too rich, but other than that you have no idea what is really going on.
 
I really can't respond better than what I originally posted.
Again if you cant hear clipping or distortion you need not to be building a thousand dollar system

Using a DMM is nice but it's NOT accurate Numbers on paper vs real world results You do the math , I'll have better DBs
 
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i did sq+ before i grew up (and detached my left eardrum).

every audio shop or build had at least one meter through it.

what good is a parametric and a DSP system if your cars not mapped out in terms of freq response.

good clean bass wuthout overamplified bands is far more enjoyable than a jewel osco parking lot job....

i melted two Hifonics via my punch power pro's (before RF sold out) the newer RF amps sucked too, i wish i had never "upgraded" from my alpine V12's
 
Voltage of the output = sqrt(RMS Power X impedance of the speaker) will get you close so you say at 75% volume your head unit is probably only 1/3 of its rated preamp voltage and lets say after you do the math the volts to the speaker should be 45, that still means nothing the box, the space , the signal ( how distorted is it from the HU?) , the state of the speaker new / old / tight etc I mean really... whats the subsonic set to? whats the freq of the box?
but yeah trust your ears and its nothing like tuning a car
 
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