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Subframe bushings (crossmember?) Clunk, finding parts, etc.

Figured i found this on google and share my issue lol...

Replaced control arms with ball joints, tie rod ends, strut mount i still have clunking... Im going with subframe bushings next. When stoppin... Sometimes turnin and on take off. Pretty annoying.
 


sometimes it can be a blown strut as well make but never a bad idea to replace the bushings, grab the 9c1 or the gxp bushings, for the fronts renting a 3 jaw puller from autozone will save LOTS of time
 
I just replaced my front sway bar due to a similar noise. I had previously replaced the mounts and end links to no avail. I found it by using a big pry bar between the sway bar and cradle.
 
I would stick with OEM for these bushings. They are more money, but I think its well spent especially if you want to keep the car for awhile.
 




So I guess no one mentioned that you need to hammer, cut or torch the bushings out of the subframe.

I gave up on the front ones, I don't have a torch. Too risky IMO to use a saws all. I beat them like crazy and didn't move.

Hoping the rears are easier.
 
Fronts are easy. With the car jacked up at the rockers, you need two jacks to do this, one underneath the front of the subframe in the middle like you normally would do, remove both subframe bolts, let the jack down slowly to lower the front of the subframe, the way I did it was I did one side at a time I took a piece of scrap 4x4 and took a piece of exhaust pipe reducer that I had laying around cut it in half, I forgot the diameter of the pipe I used off the top of my head but it was just big enough to fit on top of the bushing and small enough where it wouldn't interfere with the mount I stacked the 4x4 on top of that. Then I took the other jack and put it underneath the side of the subframe that I was removing the bushing for and then jacked it up, the wood and exhaust pipe pushes the bushings out then u just do the same for the other side after you install the new bushing. installation is easy, I sprayed the bushing and inside the subframe where the bushing goes with penetrating oil, I was able to push it in enough where it would stay in place then took the second jack with the 4x4 on top and jacked it up where it pushes the bushing in enough where you can thread the bolt and use that to get it in the rest of the way.


Does that make sense I suck at putting words into a how to lol


KIMG0086_zpslmtf5gzo.jpg
 
I think I understand what you are saying. Not sure why you need the 4x4 and exhaust pipe.

But if I am understanding you right. I have some 2" diameter PCV pipe I can put in between the sub frame and body of the car. Then jack up whatever side bushings I'm working on. The PCV pipe with be hitting the car frame, then pushing against the top of the bushing hopefully pushing it out.

You think this will work for the rear ones?
 
Yea thats the idea lol im terrible at this sh•t, the 4x4 was to make up the difference in height, the exhaust pipe was to short to push the bushing out all the way and so also so it wouldnt start lifting the car, I don't see why this wouldn't work on the rear, I just did the fronts since I was waiting on the rears to arrive. Rears will happen this weekend depending on time and weather. Fronts took maybe 45 mins or so (a good portion of that was staring at them and figuring out the easiest way to get them out)
 


And this is why you make sure whatever pipe or piece of pvc that your using is smaller then the mount or you'll be a dumbass like me and grab the wrong piece of exhaust and break the welds off the mount

KIMG0087_zpsas9unifa.jpg


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REDCRAPGP said:
Yea thats the idea lol im terrible at this sh•t, the 4x4 was to make up the difference in height, the exhaust pipe was to short to push the bushing out all the way and so also so it wouldnt start lifting the car, I don't see why this wouldn't work on the rear, I just did the fronts since I was waiting on the rears to arrive. Rears will happen this weekend depending on time and weather. Fronts took maybe 45 mins or so (a good portion of that was staring at them and figuring out the easiest way to get them out)
Click to expand...

I know, I did the same thing. Was looking at them like how the fuk are these things going to come out. I was assuming they would just squeeze out once I tool the bolt off. lol
Thanks for the tip. Going to try it today.


REDCRAPGP said:
And this is why you make sure whatever pipe or piece of pvc that your using is smaller then the mount or you'll be a dumbass like me and grab the wrong piece of exhaust and break the welds off the mount

KIMG0087_zpsas9unifa.jpg


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Click to expand...

Damn, how did that happen. That the old mount. Guess it doesn't matter huh?

Did your hold mounts look bad? How many miles do you have?

I really not sure this is my problem, but not sure what else it could be. I have same issues as the OP but most of my suspension is sorta new or at most very low miles on it.
 
That's what happens when u grab the wrong piece of exhaust pipe (diameter was to big) and end up putting pressure on the aluminum section of mount breaking the welds. I shouldn't have been talking on the phone and trying to do it or I would of caught it before it was to late, now I'll be grabbing and swapping the subframe this weekend hopefully. That was the old mount that had 93k on it, it was one of the only bushings I haven't changed so figured I'll get them swapped out, who knows if it'll make a difference but it can't hurt. Also new mounts are from a Monte Carlo which are aluminum and not just all rubber (got the idea from 91parkave)

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Well, it looks like mine are going to stay in there. lol

I put the PCV pipe on top of them mount. Started jacking up that side of the sub frame.
The mount didn't budge. It started lifting the whole car. hahaa

Guess one of these decades when I get around to swapping to a aluminium sub frame I will worry about it then.
Thank god amazon has a great return policy.
 
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