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Subframe bushings (crossmember?) Clunk, finding parts, etc.

andante147

andante147

New member
'03 GTP, 150K

I have a loud clunk on acceleration, turning, sometimes stopping. A shop said it was subframe or crossmember bushings. (If I understood them, they were using these terms interchangeably) They want $860 to do all of them including parts. I could swear they said 6, but I think their are four - he had an accent :-) I've been on this forum, talking to some guys on Craigslist who do side jobs, and on line everywhere. I'm confused. I'm going crazy trying to save some part of that expense. I do some of my own work (brakes, minor suspension, etc.) but I'm hesitant to have to support the engine and trans without really good equipment. Here's the issues..

Dealership priced $363 (!!!!) for the four bushing assemblies. They have me the diagram of the sub frame... it shows the two front as one set and the two rear as another differently designed set of parts. (they part every piece separately... the bolt, the nut, each rubber piece..nuts!)

I've been on Rockauto where they sell this:
http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/ge...tp://www.rockauto.com/info/RB/924-006-007.jpg
but it doesn't say if its the front or back of the frame.

Been on LOTS of other parts sites and either they say they don't have them or the terminology is different... sub-frame/cross-member/mounts/bushings, etc.

Can anyone find me the right parts with some certainty?

Anyone have a diagram of the sub frame assembly, and maybe instructions for R/R?

One nice guy on chat here said he thinks it's easy, and I can handle it - I'm not sure. I think I have an indy guy who will do it for $300 labor, but I have to find the right parts at a better price than GM!

Oh, and some other guys on chat insist there's no way these are bad and it must be struts or motormounts. But I've read up on it and this does happen.

I'm also wondering - my trans jerks into first occasionally - a few times pretty violently - could this have snapped or damaged the sub frame mounts?

Already have the trans rebuilt for $1700 2 years ago but it was never right. Still slips into 1st occasionally and some erratic shifting between upper gears. They sucked... sigh. Anyway, sure could use some advice.
 


Ill get you some part #s in a few hours when I get access to a computer unless someone chimes in before me. Do yourself a favor and do it yourself sockets,jack,jack stands are all you need and a breaker bar helps.

-Jack the car up like you normally would and put the jack stands on the jack point right below the passenger and driver doors.
-get underneath the car with the jack and place the jack directly in the middle of the rear portion of the subframe. Jack the subframe up a bit and then remove the two bolts holding the rear end of the subframe.
-Slowly lower the jack enough to be able to remove the two rear bushing and then replace them.
-line the two bolts back up and tighten each side slowly it should start to force the subframe back up without you having to jack it back up if not once you have both bolts lined up jack it up a bit.
-same concept for the front bushings
-put the jack underneath the front section of the subframe directly in the middle. Remove both bolts holding the front section of the subframe.
-slowly lower the jack enough to allow you to remove and install the new bushing.
-put the bolts back in and tighten each side slowly and even. When you tighten the bolts it should start to force the subframe back up but if not just jack it up slightly.
-make sure all 4 bolts are tighten and proceed to remove the jack and get the car off jack stands.
-pat yourself on the back for saving yourself a bunch of money and enjoy some beer.

Rough write up I'm on my phone so its a bit difficult to type it out like I want.
 
Change your lower control arms my money is on the bushing in there being bad coupled with probably a worn ball joint. Rockauto has them cheap.
 
Yea I haven't heard to many cases where the subframe bushing needed to be changed. I would look at control arm bushing like Dsmuts said and then go from there.
 
Thanks a lot for that! It does sound like something I can do - tho I'm kind of paranoid way under the car with my crappy China jack. Maybe I'll spring for the $90 less crappy China jack from Harbor it lifts higher, etc.

I'd appreciate the part numbers. I think I have them from the GM dealer, but I didn't bring that with me to my office today.

I wonder why they call this a 5-hour job at the shop (more than one shop)

Cheers



REDCOMPG said:
Ill get you some part #s in a few hours when I get access to a computer unless someone chimes in before me. Do yourself a favor and do it yourself sockets,jack,jack stands are all you need and a breaker bar helps.

-Jack the car up like you normally would and put the jack stands on the jack point right below the passenger and driver doors.
-get underneath the car with the jack and place the jack directly in the middle of the rear portion of the subframe. Jack the subframe up a bit and then remove the two bolts holding the rear end of the subframe.
-Slowly lower the jack enough to be able to remove the two rear bushing and then replace them.
-line the two bolts back up and tighten each side slowly it should start to force the subframe back up without you having to jack it back up if not once you have both bolts lined up jack it up a bit.
-same concept for the front bushings
-put the jack underneath the front section of the subframe directly in the middle. Remove both bolts holding the front section of the subframe.
-slowly lower the jack enough to allow you to remove and install the new bushing.
-put the bolts back in and tighten each side slowly and even. When you tighten the bolts it should start to force the subframe back up but if not just jack it up slightly.
-make sure all 4 bolts are tighten and proceed to remove the jack and get the car off jack stands.
-pat yourself on the back for saving yourself a bunch of money and enjoy some beer.

Rough write up I'm on my phone so its a bit difficult to type it out like I want.
Click to expand...
 


This is sort of why I was asking the random question about the trans lurching into gear sometimes. I'm wondering if that snapped something in those bushing bolts. Crazy?

Yes, I think the control arm assembly at rock auto is maybe $50 each. I hesitate to throw money at it unkown. The garage that diagnosed it has been know to be honest in the past...(I know, no guarantees!)
 
The shop include $70 in their quote for alignment. Would I be able to drive it to get aligned if I do the subframe myself? Or even LCA?
 
Take a few pics of your lcas. You can drive without an alignment for a while. I've been driving for almost a year without an alignment after lcas
 
Not to jack but im about to do this as well. Im assuming this is the correct part and we need X4 right?

RockAuto Parts Catalog
Subframe_Bushings_zpsbabaee19.png


To OP do it yourself and reward yourself with new car tools!
 
That's the parts I found (don't take that as a yes!) I am doubting myself because the GM dealer's diagram shows the front ones as looking slightly different and different part numbers than the back ones. Any clarification out there?
 


Part Detail=

click the "view info" button, & a keyed diagram should open.

OP, for diagrams and part #

I used, l67, mn7, 2wr69 for filters--which I believe is correct for all 03 GTPs

my experience w/ gmpartsgiant has been pretty good, slow shipping, but have many hard to find parts-sometimes competative $. I use their diagrams & double check parts & price check frequently.

good luck.
 
I'll confirm that there's no way the problem could be worn subframe bushings at only 150k. Which is about a 30 minute job... 15 minutes with airtools.
 
Using the GM parts web sites and this diagram
BODY MOUNTING - W
The cheapest I can find is about $300 with shipping.
4 of the RockAuto sets is $100 plus shipping. But if you look at the drawing and try to match the part numbers from the drawing and Rock Auto I can't make all the parts match. I *wonder* if Rock is selling the rear assembly but not the front?
 


not sure I know how to confirm control arm bushing trouble. I can look and try to tell if the rubber (or whatever) looks loose. This are as hard a a job as the subframe bushings, I think (for me.) can you tell me what to look for in the LCA?
 
OP Get the car up in the air and rock the front wheel back and forth, if there is play that is a strong indicator for a bad LCA

Still subed for confirmation on my parts list for subframe bushings I think me and andante147 are still a little confused.
 
I'd be the guy that said it was a piece of cake. I can't say the E asy word as all one word or it messes up searching for the write up's I've done. Given, I feel nearly everything is e asy, I suggest reading some of the how to's though and you'll see...it's reallly not bad to do most work on a car.

Blue Nick was the guy that said motor mounts/LCA's

As for feeling insecure under the car, this is why I have two sets of jackstands. They are super cheap insurance. The writeup above is great for doing the work. Only things I'd add is it's an 18mm socket and you'll want a 3"-6" extension for the front bolts. Put you extra set of jackstands under the part of the subframe you are lowering, then the car is on stands, the jack is supporting things and the extra stands are there for safety.

Next time you rotate your tires, you'll have the entire car off the ground on stands. Low cost for safety and future use.

Hell...if I get bored and a buddy like .....Drunkie is around this weekend, maybe we'll do a vid of how simple this overall procedure is. As far as the possibility of this being control arms, Pull the tires and take a look at them. There's a few posts with pictures that explain bad vs good.
 
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