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Stumbling then stall cold and warm start.

Here's a screen shot of scans from torque app.
051878a4c474f8d28b7ea1e645950f31.jpg
a4821b94a04b5710e31d5ff52049db03.jpg
 


Well the MAP reads both pressure and vacuum. At rest or atmospheric pressure the output is about 2.5V and increases as pressure is applied. When under vacuum the output is less than 2.5V (approximate). But if both gauges are for measuring manifold pressure the gauges should match even though they are different units of measure. I could see if you had reached the limit of the gauge but 4.5psi would be a high, low point for pressure.

Jeff
 
The 20.8 vacuum reads the same as my sunpro boost gauge stays which is tee'd off the map sensor. So are you saying I'm have a problem which my map?
 


How can your throttle be closed and the manifold be at 20.8 in/Hg and at 4.5 psi as well?

i don't know if it is a glitch or what the other shows .4 in/Hg and 14.5 psi. You would have to have 2 different sensors. I gu as I'm not familiar with the setup of the app, since mine isn't working.
 
So after a lim job, new o2 sensor, and spark plugs its still bogging when cruising or at a stand still, not all the time but sometimes. I have to rev it to keep it going. I changed the fpr with a junker and its still the same problem. I can't check fuel pressure as I don't have a fuel gauge. Any ideas
 
I think they rent fuel pressure gauges at the parts store. It won't let you measure it under load, but it's a start. I ended up removing the gauge from my setup and adding an electronic oil pressure sender and wiring the gauge into the car. I don't recommend it, but it did allow me to watch fuel pressure under load.

Jeff
 
So now I'm getting codes p0134 and p0133 and I just replaced the o2 sensor with a delco a week ago. Arrggghh
 
Just because you get a code doesn't mean that is the problem. It is a symptom of the problem. Keep that in mind in the future. Also throwing parts at a car without knowing exactly why or what the problem is, is the best way to get a huge bill in parts and the exact same thing wrong with it. I speak from experience on this.

Jeff
 


What would cause problems with the o2? I've read somewhere that hard wiring helped, but then again another member had a bad pcm. The o2 is not receiving a signal so I would check for V at the pink wire correct?
 
thats a good brand, but parts are known to be bad new. check the fuse box. then check over the o2 wires, make sure they are not burnt or melted.
 
Actually remembering correctly I did a scan after the lim job and the o2 sensor was still functioning slow but it didn't throw a code. I just thought the torque app or my phone was acting slow
 


Checked over everything. Guess I'll grab a couple IAC sensors from the junker and try that. If that doesn't work then I hope that the pcm is the problem. In the me an time I'm gonna get a party smoke machine and check for leaks
 
what exhaust work was done? thats some monster kr. like the down pipes hitting the sway bar maybe. if its hitting you should see some marks from it.
 
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