• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Struggling with my GTP

I don't even have proof it's a 98, that's just what the guy said when I bought it. And he only had it for a few months and I can't tell the difference
 


killywilly98 said:
I don't even have proof it's a 98, that's just what the guy said when I bought it. And he only had it for a few months and I can't tell the difference
Click to expand...


open the drivers side front door, theres a sticker on the door jam, should say the year it was built on there. year built, and sold are two things tho, a 98 could be built in 97, and sold as a 98.
 
Hey guys im back. I saved the money to change some of the things you guys guided me to. I couldnt find a MAF sensor at the local pullapart so i decided to start with the cheapest option that needed to be changed even if it wasnt the problem, which was the spark plugs. Ive never done any real work on cars so i watched a video on it and did pretty well. I did 1 spark plug at a time to insure i didnt get any wires mixed up. In between each change is started the car to see if it made a difference and all stayed the same as before. I got to my 4th plug, cylinder 2, on the back left and it was hard but i got it changed and started my car and it was all fine. Then came cylinder 4. I could not for the life of me get the heat shield and wire out of it and ended up accidentally brealing the wire. So i left and went to get new wires and let a friend of mine change out the last two spark plugs because hes more familliar with cars and i was running out of time. I got back and he said he changed them but one of the old plugs broke coming out but he still managed to get it out and put the new one in. I reconnected the last two wires and changed only the one i broke. I started the car and it started clunking and sputtering and idling rough as hell. It slightly resembled how the idle was before but it was much louder and shook the car a whole lot. I checked all the wires and all was good. I changed out the wires for all 3 of the back plugs and it didnt help. My friend said the timing is probably off but i have no idea if it is or how to fix that. At this point im simply trying to get it to return to its previous less messed up state. Should i change the coil packs? Or change the remaining wires? Or redo the last 2 plugs myself? Im only 17 and dont make a whole lot of money so spending $200 only to make my car worse is kinda pissing me off. Let me know if you can help
 
Ok, first off, change the rest of the wires. You may have broken one without realizing.

Second off, make sure the wires go to the correct plugs and coils. They should go as following:

Engine (looking at it from the front of the car)
2 4 6
1 3 5


Coils:
6
3

2
5

4
1


If you have any questions, reply back. I'd say you broke one of the wires by accident and didn't notice. Happens all the time
 
Last edited:
And once you get that done, disconnect the battery for a few minutes, then as long as it runs ok, drive it around for a few days, then take it to your local parts store and get it scanned. Write down all the codes they give you and post back here.
 
i checked all of them and they are fine. i did something that was probably stupid and swapped the 4 and 6 cylinder wires to make them run to the wrong spot on the coil packs. but when i started it it ran the EXACT same as it did with them in the right place, which seemed entirely wrong to me???
 


okay guys, i feel dumb. with my car acting up right before all of this and my fuel gauge being broken i was unaware that i ran it out of gas. which means i was pushing it full throttle while parked with no gas in it. probably pretty bad for my car but idk. i put some gas in it and now it will idle. it still idles like **** but it stays running until the rpms start to lower. when this happens it starts to make a whirring sound. and if i push the gas the rpms wont go up right for a second and it makes a louder whirring sound. could i have broken my fuel pump or something? what could cause this? it is still undrivable. i had a guy i met on craigslist look at it and hes a certified gm mechanic. he didnt know what exactly was wrong but he said it was very important for me to replace myMAP sensor because one of the codes i got was for it. would my map sensor cause these kinds of problems?
 
killywilly98 said:
okay guys, i feel dumb. with my car acting up right before all of this and my fuel gauge being broken i was unaware that i ran it out of gas. which means i was pushing it full throttle while parked with no gas in it. probably pretty bad for my car but idk. i put some gas in it and now it will idle. it still idles like **** but it stays running until the rpms start to lower. when this happens it starts to make a whirring sound. and if i push the gas the rpms wont go up right for a second and it makes a louder whirring sound. could i have broken my fuel pump or something? what could cause this? it is still undrivable. i had a guy i met on craigslist look at it and hes a certified gm mechanic. he didnt know what exactly was wrong but he said it was very important for me to replace myMAP sensorbecause one of the codes i got was for it. would my map sensorcause these kinds of problems?
Click to expand...

Maybe a vacuum leak?

Look in the front of the throttle body, there's a hose about 1/2" in diameter. That will blow off if you have a backfire. I've done that before and was like WTF is wrong with this?!?!
 
A bad map sensor would definitely cause idle/driveability problems, if you had a way to scan it to see what the map kpa readings were that would make it pretty easy to diagnose. Normal readings would be around 30 at a warm idle, and 130-150 at wot for a stock L67. What did the guy from CL use to scan the car for codes? Did he have a tech 2?
 
Guys i dont knowa whole lot about cars. Not yet. Dcrews idont even know what a throttle body is, could you post a picture of the hose youre talking about and its location? It was scanned by a guy at oriellys. Idk if they are nationwide but they are the same as autozone but i have no idea what type of scanner
 
its on the driver side of the car. Looking from the front of the car the left side of it is connected to the supercharger the right side has the air cleaner attached to it. Oh and your MAF is on the top of it
 


Check out my pictures at the beginning this thread and look at the plastic hose behind my alternator. I believe that is a vaccum hose but i dont know where it goes and alot of it broke off. Could that be the problem? Underneath the right side of,my supercharger there is also a buildup of oil. I will take more pictures and try to,post a video of how it sounds.
 
i feel bad that you don't have a mechanic you can trust or the basic knowledge to troubleshoot the issues.
we'll do the best we can. it sounds like you spent $1200 on a bad car.
 
mguzzo said:
i feel bad that you don't have a mechanic you can trust or the basic knowledge to troubleshoot the issues.
we'll do the best we can. it sounds like you spent $1200 on a bad car.
Click to expand...

I don't think it's a bad car, I just think he doesn't know what he's doing.

And that's not a bad thing, or a dig on him. We all started out not knowing anything.

At least he's trying and asking questions and trying to do the right thing. Kudos to him!!
 
killywilly98 said:
Check out my pictures at the beginning this thread and look at the plastic hose behind my alternator. I believe that is a vaccum hose but i dont know where it goes and alot of it broke off. Could that be the problem? Underneath the right side of,my supercharger there is also a buildup of oil. I will take more pictures and try to,post a video of how it sounds.
Click to expand...

how is that not fixed yet? what you waiting for? buy some vac line at the parts store, its a buck a foot, and find that other end, look under the fuse box, then down to the wire harness near the balancer. that a active vacuum leak, it needs to be fixed, or capped off to seal it off.
 
the car lasted 6 months, which id say was worth 1200. i really have no idea what im doing but im trying. and i dont know where the vac line feeds to, i checked under the fuse box and it didnt look the same as the picture you took. probably because you have a regal but i looked all around over there
 


look harder its there, at least cap off the end of the busted line, that will help with how it runs, thats a vac leak.

you can use a 1 inch vac line and a stick to seal it off, a screw or golf tee's is nicer but sticks work in a pinch.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top