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Spherical bearing upper mounts



i was trying to make the rear top plates fit some scrap i had and only after i cut em out did i realise that its less like the OEM ovaled square....and looks like mickey mouse rofl

they are the lightweight "that **** looks mickey mouse as fuuuu" version

im ordering cups to put my balls into, did both of you want the cups welded to the stainless plates or whut?
 


well **** since im ordering a buncha these damned things should i put yer balls on the tab too? i have actual strut to ball sleeves for your fronts to toss in your box.
i also need to order another couple boxes of m8 and m10 bolts to round out the hardware

i am joking about the pink plates....ill probably just do silver/natural anodizing as before, colors add cost and im trying to be as cheap as possible...at least on the **** thats not important

the monoball/LBJ/RC correction stuff clears the rotor, comes damn close all the way down the pin but it clears, deffinatly not going to put the cups at the OEM 16* angle. there's no need to for our ride height....for OEM with the limited BJ angle where the monoballs can swivel to a higher angle before the body touches the RC adjustment sleeves.
 
I just ordered 6 cups and balls, I have the biggest balls of them all

the first two pairs of rear upper mounts are going to be red, both the fullsize (oe mount dimentions/shape) and the one pair of "mickey mouse" lightweight plates.

both are setup for negative with only a little positive adjustment. im figuring on using them with our camber bolts. I may go more positive but I really want to see the change from lowered ride height to "full tilt".
I really want my final design to allow for straight position A & B adjustment that gets us track guys where we need to be at both ride heights (same center stainless plate/cup, just different alum plates on my future units)

if I do it right and change the position using the 3 10mm bolts I could make it a loosen 1 bolt, remove two and move over to adjacent holes, refasten and your back to the same camber you were at the other position.

since all of our lateral arms are the same it would be universal and quite damned handy for the street/strip guys.

anyone want a good deal on a 3/8ths inch 65e pan spacer/heatsink? I made one for the TR from 1" plate so I don't need the 3/8ths. ill probably get it anodized at the same time I do the 1", though it probably doesn't need to be anodized.

one pair of cups and balls is for the RC correction/monoball pins to finish my prototypes for the TR.
I have prints drawn up for a tie rod adjuster sleeve that goes to our GM ends and to a LH 3/4" rod end so we can use the bump steer pins on the TR....may or may not follow through with it, max we'd get is about 1/2"to 5/8ths lower on the pivot....though even that would probably be an improvement since its on 350lb front springs. we'll see I guess.

so for now ill only have one pair of rears, but with a free future upgrade to the final upper plate.

ive made enough front plates for 4 pairs of front to toss on my shelf after I get en anodized.

im sorry about the red but my work was having only a couple pieces done in red and I saved money by throwing the 4 rears in with em...lol

I wish I could make adjusting the rears s easy as the fronts but we'll have to settle on at least an easy swap from ride height to full tilt.

just the cost savings from screwing with the alignment once its been set perfectly for ride height will be worth it in the long haul.

HK doesn't wanna blow the $ for the heim joints so no go on some aluminum lateral and trailing arms....
 


Thinking about what you mentioned a while back Marshal, and going with a set of front agx in the rear. The idea would be since they're shorter than the Billsteins, it should allow me to keep the same height as it has now but give me more strut travel then what I currently have and I can get rid of the helper springs. Of course it's just any idea atm.
 
iirc the spindle ear bolt pattern is closer together on the rear. on the rear at least you can just move the strut down relative to the knuckle. you don't have to worry about hitting the CV shaft back there.



a helluva difference.
but don't forget that my mounts move the strut rod up almost an inch over the OEM rear mounts
 
as it is my mounts wont let you tilt the back end up as much as OEM...but I hope to alay that concern with the ability to keep the alignment through both ride heights.

aside from dropping weight by drilling holes in the rear cradle, and finally making my mounts for the aztek bumper to bolt on in the back...I don't think I can do much for the rear. well the aluminum lateral/trailing arms...but that's mostly unsprung weight down low enough in the chassis that dropping the weight up at the strut mounts and the bumper would yield more gains since they are enough above axle centerline to actually make a moticable different to the weight transfer to the back.

hell maybe ill just weld on traction bar mounts and drill holes in his minty bumper
 


Turbocharged400sbc said:
iirc the spindle ear bolt pattern is closer together on the rear. on the rear at least you can just move the strut down relative to the knuckle. you don't have to worry about hitting the CV shaft back there.



a helluva difference.
but don't forget that my mounts move the strut rod up almost an inch over the OEM rear mounts
Click to expand...
Good good and IIRC the Billstein rears are slightly longer then the non gxp strut options. So pair those agx and your mounts should give me a lot more strut travel and then I can run a 12" spring by themselves without helper springs current springs will go in the front and I'll get some different lower rated ones for the rear.
 
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