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Speed Daddy Headers - quick few questions before I pull the trigger

Elite6

Elite6

New member
Looking at ebay RACING MANIFOLD HEADER/EXHAUST GRAND PRIX/GTP/BUICK REGAL/IMPALA/MONTE CARLO 3.8 | eBay

Need 2 - 2.25" band clamps
Need 2 - 3.0" band clamps
Before the install should I get a better flex section, I read some leak?
Do I need an O2 extension?
My car is not lowered but will be, will the stock SD downpipe get all smashed up?
What do the lowered guys do? Get a shop to fab something else?

I am hoping the install will be much easier while I have the SC & LIM off?
 


i am lowered and have smaller tires upfront and rarely have an issue... only some tall speed bumps hit... and most of those have a cut in the middle between lanes where i drive down the center to not hit. there is a thread around here that gives demensions on a jig where you can cut them and fix it all while adding a new flex. if i were to do it again i would put a better flex in mine and remove about 1" from the rear section to raise up the exhaust.
 
Z34Phoenix said:
i am lowered and have smaller tires upfront and rarely have an issue... only some tall speed bumps hit... and most of those have a cut in the middle between lanes where i drive down the center to not hit. there is a thread around here that gives demensions on a jig where you can cut them and fix it all while adding a new flex. if i were to do it again i would put a better flex in mine and remove about 1" from the rear section to raise up the exhaust.
Click to expand...

Did your flex break apart?
 
I've ran mine for over a year, and then sold them to a friend, and he's running them.

I never had the flex leak.
I needed an O2 extension. (2002 gtp)
My car wasn't lowered, and had factory rims/tire size, and would scrape on every single speed-bump. I used a torch and a clamp to flatten the bottom of the downpipe about 3/4 of an inch, and never scraped again.

Also, if you do decide to pull the trigger, I have a set of Speed-Daddy headers never used. Was going to rebuild, and never did. PM me if you're interested.


Also, make sure to use copper rtv at every slip-fit joint.
 
Are O2 extensions available at reg. Parts stores? I looked at the sd headers and i think i might need five clamps not 4?
 
RTV is your friend but dont be a slob, im lowered, never really hit unless its stupid big speed bump,

make your own extension cut and solder 4 wires
 


machinegunsquid said:
I've ran mine for over a year, and then sold them to a friend, and he's running them.

I never had the flex leak.
I needed an O2 extension. (2002 gtp)
My car wasn't lowered, and had factory rims/tire size, and would scrape on every single speed-bump. I used a torch and a clamp to flatten the bottom of the downpipe about 3/4 of an inch, and never scraped again.

Also, if you do decide to pull the trigger, I have a set of Speed-Daddy headers never used. Was going to rebuild, and never did. PM me if you're interested.


Also, make sure to use copper rtv at every slip-fit joint.
Click to expand...
bingo, i made an o2 extension from another gtp o2 sensor
 
i was surprised how easy they were to install, the hardest part was shoving the back header between the firewall and the valve cover. if you remove the rear valve cover its way easier, i am just not that motivated.
 


If I were to do it again, Id get rid of everything from the Flex back, but a new flex in, get rid of the ubend, and make it all one piece after the V-band clamp, Then you can skip the 3" band clamps if you just weld it. I'd also get some SS bolts to bolt it to the catback since mine were rusty as hell.
 
Some people delete their EGR.

I for example, did. Mostly because there was a hole in the egr pipe leading to the LIM, and the engine bay looks so much nicer without it. And anyone who wants to ***** about mpg, I still got 30+ on the interstate (averaged 34 from NC to FL)

Others delete the egr because they are installing an intercooler, and want to keep the core clean.
 


You just have to block off the holes on the LIM and the Headers. I thought i noticed a difference in gas mileage and then i got 32 MPG highway, with a GT gear ratio. I mostly deleted it to clean up the engine bay and not get carbon stuff on the intake side of the motor. oh and its somewhat hefty.
 
I would have to keep the EGR setup as we have emissions testing in Ontario. I am wondering if I should do the install with some upgraded band clamps, wait for the flex to take a crap then have a new flex welded on and u bend deleted? Once the headers are installed does welding a new flex & deleting the u bend required the rear manifold to be removed?
 
thomas mcnulty said:
i was surprised how easy they were to install, the hardest part was shoving the back header between the firewall and the valve cover. if you remove the rear valve cover its way easier, i am just not that motivated.
Click to expand...
Did you drop the subframe at all or everything through the top?
 
thomas mcnulty said:
sd headers are designed for the egr.
Click to expand...

Not really.

gtpeddie said:
what if you buy headers with no EGR application?
Click to expand...

Then you don't use EGR?

All of the questions have been answered numerous times.

Elite6 said:
I would have to keep the EGR setup as we have emissions testing in Ontario. I am wondering if I should do the install with some upgraded band clamps, wait for the flex to take a crap then have a new flex welded on and u bend deleted? Once the headers are installed does welding a new flex & deleting the u bend required the rear manifold to be removed?
Click to expand...

Since you're in ontario, you need a real cat.

Between the cat ($200), headers ($280 by the time they get to your door), clamps and RTV ($40), new flex ($50),

You could have bought a nice set of headers.

Also don't need an EGR to pass an E-test.

Leave your engine cover on and they'll never think to check.

Elite6 said:
Did you drop the subframe at all or everything through the top?
Click to expand...

As per the many other threads on the same topic: Remove trans dip stick and enjoy.
 
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