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Speed Daddy Flex Question

GTP131 said:
Sounds like grounds for a dispute or chargeback if they sent you a defective downpipe and blew you off.
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They didn't send me a defective one I just wanted to see if they would sell a new downpipe section as I hit a pothole and punched a nickle sized hole in the sink trap.
 


Well they just offered to send me a whole new set of headers, I'm guessing they don't have spare parts at their warehouse. I think I'll just take the partial refund and put some rtv on it.

Btw, does anyone know a cheap catalytic converter that would pass PA inspection?
 
bonerjamz03 said:
Well they just offered to send me a whole new set of headers, I'm guessing they don't have spare parts at their warehouse. I think I'll just take the partial refund and put some rtv on it.

Btw, does anyone know a cheap catalytic converter that would pass PA inspection?
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They just look as long as the code is tuned out. No sniffer test
 
i took the little pipe out of the down pipe, ( the middle pipe) and put the cat there, used 3 inch band clamps and some rtv to make sure it didnt leak, cause its not a perfectly tight fit. i plan to weld it in when i pull the engine. now that i think of it, the right side clamp is covering the the cat and the back reducer pipe butted together because it would not slide on.

002_zpsroeryagq.jpg
 


your speed daddy headers have the cat back flange part with the new headers. you just put the cat in place of the short straight pipe.

its hard to see being so dark and rusty in the pic, but you can see the last header part bolted to the cat back on the far right of the pic.
 
So I shouldn't need to cut/modify anything?

Here's my list of stuff for the install.

SD headers
ebay cat
2 - 2.25" clamps
2 - 3" clamps
1 - Copper RTV

Am I missing anything? I recall reading something about a round gasket or something like that. Is that a reusable stock item?
 


your list is good.

but re use the stock head to header gaskets. use the cat back gasket that comes with the headers. buy 2 new nuts and bolts for the cat back flange as its likely to break or strip and then need to be cut off. not sure if the headers come with them 2 bolts or not.

i highly recommend a ratcheting box wrench, 13 mm for the manifold bolts in the heads. sockets dont fit well to the nuts or bolts there. but the ratcheting wrench fits like a glove.
 
Scottydoggs said:
your list is good.

but re use the stock head to header gaskets. use the cat back gasket that comes with the headers. buy 2 new nuts and bolts for the cat back flange as its likely to break or strip and then need to be cut off. not sure if the headers come with them 2 bolts or not.

i highly recommend a ratcheting box wrench, 13 mm for the manifold bolts in the heads. sockets dont fit well to the nuts or bolts there. but the ratcheting wrench fits like a glove.
Click to expand...

I have a set of ratcheting wrenches and they have saved my ass many times lol. Definitely worth the money.

I should have these installed early next week. After that.....it's pulley time baby.
 
I just went through a headache of changing out the sd header to head gaskets as one blew out and the other leaked like a fishing net. As scotty said re-use the stock gaskets there. I also rtv'd the crossover as it was close to leaking with the good stepped band clamps. Also if you plan on keeping your egr then rtv that also or it will leak for sure.
 
I think I have to keep the EGR for PA emissions. But yeah I will definitely be using RTV, probably should pick up another tube just in case lol
 


one tube is plenty. I probably didnt even use half of mine. Also be careful with the o2 sensor location in the rear header. When test fitting mine i somehow damaged it. It is now welded into the crossover.
 
I just installed mine tonight, well the rear head and header. Did you guys have to bend any lines? I had to slightly tweak the ps line and it looks like the transmission dipstick will have to be bent. Haven't put on the crossover, but it looks questionable if it will hit, especially when the clamps on.
 
you need to make sure its the right length if you do. if its in the car you cant f it up if you test fit, mark and weld it in.
 
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