• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Specific Plugs/Wires

J

J_Man55

New member
I have a 97 GTP with 126,xxx miles on it. It is completely stock and I plan on changing the plugs and wires this week. Here is what I was thinking:

Plugs: (the 605's)
INTENSE-Racing.com: Autolite® Copper Core Spark Plugs

I would order these from ZZP but it doesn't look like they carry the 605's. Should I get the NGK's instead? Or maybe the Autolite 103's or 104's? I was thinking the 605's since that is what it suggested for stock GTP's in the oqcgp.com plugs write-up.

Wires:
ZZ Performance

or:
ZZ Performance

Do these look good? Which wires should I get? Also I figure I might as well get a new thermostat while I'm at it. Hows this:

ZZ Performance

Should I get it drilled? Would that be alright for a stock 97?

Comments???
 


If you are going to get Autolite plugs why not just go to Wal-Mart and pick up what you need, would probably be a little cheaper.

With regards to the plug wires, I'll give you my thoughts on it, but Im sure others will step in and contribute to, just take it all into account and decide from there. The PRJ wires I have no idea what the resistance per foot is on those. MSD wires are between 40 - 50 ohm per foot. The 10.3mm wires ZZP is selling, if they give 4hp gains over the MSD wires, I would assume they are in the same ballpark and their price for them is not horrible. Factory wires come in at around 2500 - 3000 ohms per foot. The lower resistance of the MSDs (and presumably ZZP wires) is going to give you a much stronger spark and might even help a little with fuel economy.

The 180* thermostat is a great choice, I dont think it needs to be drilled. I run MSD wires and a drilled 180* thermostat, but if I had it to do over I would probably go with what is known as a balanced thermostat in a 180* set up. You'll have to search on that.

The 605's would be the coldest plug I would go with on a stock set up. I ran the 104's I believe it was (one step colder than the 605's) and they were too cold of a plug so I am fairly certain they would be for you as well. So the 605's would be what I would use.

Hope this helps out.
 
If your stock.
AL605 are the best

Stock wires are more then enough, people really under estimates GM's ignition system. Even when i had my full set up 360WHP yes i did have the prjs because the looked good. But after mine failed i stuck with oriellys auto life time warranty borg warner plug wire set for 30 buxs. Unless your going for looks its pointless

yes do a 180 tstat as far as drilled...No
 
SyntheticShield said:
The 180* thermostat is a great choice, I dont think it needs to be drilled.

.
Click to expand...

I'm still learning alot with these motors. What does drilling the 180 thermostat do? Just curious, I've seen plenty of people talk about it, but never seen it done or how exactly to do it. :th_scratchhead:
 
BADAZGTP said:
I'm still learning alot with these motors. What does drilling the 180 thermostat do? Just curious, I've seen plenty of people talk about it, but never seen it done or how exactly to do it. :th_scratchhead:
Click to expand...

Well, you buy it drilled. The benefit is in colder climates it has a chance to slowly heat up the cold coolant in the radiator during winter. Extremely cold coolant suddenly coming in to the engine block with a non-drilled has been known to crack the block.

Other than that, there's really no point to a drilled t-stat. I doubt the benefits of a 180* t-stat at all. All I noticed was my engine ran cooler and I lost a few MPGs.
 
Sabrewings said:
Well, you buy it drilled. The benefit is in colder climates it has a chance to slowly heat up the cold coolant in the radiator during winter. Extremely cold coolant suddenly coming in to the engine block with a non-drilled has been known to crack the block.

Other than that, there's really no point to a drilled t-stat. I doubt the benefits of a 180* t-stat at all. All I noticed was my engine ran cooler and I lost a few MPGs.
Click to expand...

Gotcha, Thanks for th info!
 


Toofastgs said:
If your stock.
AL605 are the best

Stock wires are more then enough, people really under estimates GM's ignition system. Even when i had my full set up 360WHP yes i did have the prjs because the looked good. But after mine failed i stuck with oriellys auto life time warranty borg warner plug wire set for 30 buxs. Unless your going for looks its pointless

yes do a 180 tstat as far as drilled...No
Click to expand...

All I would ask you to do is just measure the resistance of the OEM plug wire in comparison to an aftermarket wire (such as PRJ's) and then an aftermarket wire compared to MSD's. Then do the math on the amount of voltage lost from the ignition coil to the plug because of that resistance. Once you do that, it really shines a light on just how restrictive the OEM wires are.



Okay, Im outta here, Ive stayed up too late. I have to work tomorrow while all you pukes are out enjoying the day off and grilling and all that fun stuff, LOL.
 
Drilled t-stat minimizes the temp hi and low peaks.

I've run stock>PRJ>stock and back to PRJ wires. Email Paul, since would be able to give you the impedance of his (PRJ) wires. I noticed no difference, performance wise, between stock and the larger low impedance wires. The only reason I'm using the PRJ's again is they are much more durable and easier to work with when doing multiple install/reinstalls.

I've gone as far as using low impedance wires and non resistor plugs and still no noticable changes. I'm sure there are gains, just nothing night and day.

If you get PRJ wires, you can get them from Paul for $113 shipped with separators or $83 shipped without.
 
I dont believe so, but Im a little bit of an overkill person and on my MSD's I have those fiberglass boots. I would recommend one at the very least on the #6 cylinder since the plug wire is so close to the O2 sensor.
 
Sabrewings said:
Do you need to use any type of protective boots with the PRJs?
Click to expand...

I've run the PRJ with stock manis, powerlog, and now TOG's with no boot protectors. They have very thick silicone boots, I believe most people don't use boot protectors with them.
 


That's good because I hate the stock heat shields and don't like the look of "boots". I didn't plan on using anything, but wanted some first hand experience that it'd be fine.
 
Its not really the boot that hits up against the O2, unless PRJ wire boots are longer, its the wire itself that ends up hitting it. But if you can get away without using anything then thats great. I just personally decided it wasnt worth the risk. No need to buy an expensive wire set and then have one of them shorted out or melted.
 
J_Man55 said:
Should I get the regular 605's or the platinum 605's (AP605)?
Click to expand...

Regular. Just say no to platinum

Sabrewings - the boots on the PRJ's are very long and are bendable up to 90*. I don't need to bend mine very much but a couple of them have been adjusted slightly. This is a very handy option IMO:th_thumbsup-wink:
 


You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top