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Southeast WI 01 GT

So when i pulled the bolt that goes thru the tensioner/heater relay assembly that sits right above the water pump, a little oil came out from the bolt hole and on the bolt....is this okay?
 


that bolt may go into the oil drain hole from the top of the head back to the block. mine came out dry.

id clean and use thread sealant on that bolt when it goes back in.

that engine needs lim gaskets too, and the old elbow pulled from the timing cover there. i see o ring. clean the hell out of that hole and the other 3 too.
 
Scottydoggs said:
that bolt may go into the oil drain hole from the top of the head back to the block. mine came out dry.

id clean and use thread sealant on that bolt when it goes back in.

that engine needs lim gaskets too, and the old elbow pulled from the timing cover there. i see o ring. clean the hell out of that hole and the other 3 too.
Click to expand...
Working towards the LIM gaskets. Replacing the water pump now. And the mailman just pulled up w/....
 
Here's a couple finds from working on the new engine today...
Trashed LIM gasket...


Carboned up TB

SC is pretty carboned/dirty too, going to need a thorough cleaning!
 


Oh, it also looks like the fuel injector electrical connections are different for new engine vs my wiring harness. So I assume that means I have to splice the new connectors to replace the old?

Sent from my Tab3
 
not sure if the n/a injectors would work, but that would be the easy way to go. dont think they are big enough tho.

if you open up the harness i bet you can find the end of the injector harness so your only cutting 2 wires and soldering two wires per side. vs each plug @ the injector. so swap the whole line of plugs.
 
You can buy adapters (I think) for the injectors if your not up to soldering also FWIW zzp says you max out stock l36 injectors on a 4.2 pully on a top swap setup no idea how accurate that is tho.
 


Yes don't touch the sc rotors and don't attempt to clean em..the coating will come off. Just pull them out and clean everything else.
 
leave the sc alone, dont touch it inside. the rotor coating needs to be there, so the blacker the better. if you see score marks or large nicks it maybe a bit worn out.

grab the pulley, now snap it back anf fourth, if you feel a click via the pulley and shaft the coupler is bad and that should be changed.

even if you decide to port the blower at this point, dont clean the rotors.
 
Yeah, not talking about the fuel injectors themselves. Thats why I said "fuel injector electrical connections". So the little "clip" part of the wiring harness that attaches to the injector, is diff. from my existing wiring to what is needed for the new injectors. I believe I'll have to solder in the two wires for each injector w/shrink wrapping over top and should be good to go.
 
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Scottydoggs said:
leave the sc alone, dont touch it inside. the rotor coating needs to be there, so the blacker the better. if you see score marks or large nicks it maybe a bit worn out.

grab the pulley, now snap it back anf fourth, if you feel a click via the pulley and shaft the coupler is bad and that should be changed.

even if you decide to port the blower at this point, dont clean the rotors.
Click to expand...
I checked the pulley/rotation in this manner before I bought the engine, rotates smoothly. Only thing I noticed last night is after I set the SC on its top to take the pic and then tried rotating it, it bound up. I assume thats just due to its orientation?
 


SilverBulletWI said:
Yeah, not talking about the fuel injectors themselves. Thats why I said "fuel injector electrical connections". So the little "clip" part of wiring harness that attaches to the injector is diff. from my existig wiring to the what is needed for the new injectors. I believe I'll have to solder in thew two wires for each injector w/shrink wrapping over top and should be good to go.
Click to expand...


take all the clips off, now trace the wires back to the main harness, now cut those wires there. the 3 injector plugs should all be in a nice row of a pig tail. now cut the other one and solder it on. tuck it all back in the wire loom so it looks factory again.

play with the new chopped up sc harness first.
 
Ok, so on the SC rotors, I understand no die grinder, no chemicals to clean...They are coated, that stuff will come off and then I'm screwed.

So the coating is grey or bronzed metal but all the black stuff is just build up crap isnt it? Can I wipe some of that off or do anything to get rid of some of that? Seems to me if its not supposed to be there, I should get rid of it? Been reading a little about it and some are firmly against touching it but my OCD is calling me to clean it up....lol.
 
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Looking to port out my LIM a little bit. I think I read something from Billboost somewhere along the way, that said unless the heads are ported, dont go crazy on the LIM. So I was just thinking I would port to size of (or slightly smaller than) the LIM gasket....
 
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