• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Southeast WI 01 GT

Frozen boost sells a fake cat, it looks like a cat buts just a straight pipe if they check for it.

Sent from the Milky Way
 


Does anyone recall a thread about how to port and polish a supercharger. It had good detailed pictures, saw it a few months ago when I first joined and I've spent the past few nights searching for it but to no avail. I've found some but not the one with really good pictures. I have a friend that works in a machine shop so I want to show it to him and see if he can help me w/ the supercharger on the new engine.

Sent from my Tab3
 
Last edited:


So to make sure I have all the ducks in a row, here are the plans for the new engine/trans if the purchase goes smoothly this Sunday. Here's the modified plans after being set straight by Scottydoggs and REDCOMPG:
-Cancelled-Replace lifters (I have them from trying to fix blown engine)
-Mod LIM, remove coolant passages, open up coolant passage at the end cap, possibly port the LIM to match the Supercharger
-Port Supercharger, not going crazy here, just going to open it up a little bit, clean up rough edges and polish surfaces. (Pulley change in the future.)
-Replace all gaskets from taking down top end
-180º Thermostat, have this already so swapping it over
-Cancelled-Replace rod bearings, again, I bought these when trying to save the old engine. Never ran them in the engine so I figure I should go ahead and stick them in here. (I know its not as simple as sticking them in there)
-New oil pan and gasket
-Might hold off on this if rest of engine/inspection looks good..Remove timing cover, inspect chain and replace oil pump gears/components, once again, parts I have from trying to rebuild other engine.
-Ordering speed daddy exhaust headers
-Ordered hardened 4th gear shaft and TransGo shift kit
-Tune PCM

This has about maxed out my budget but I'm open to suggestions/ideas. Just for the headers, I'm probably going to have to wait another two weeks to have the funds so there might be a little extra money there for something.

Sent from my Tab3
 
Last edited:
"-Replace rod bearings, again, I bought these when trying to save the old engine. Never ran them in the engine so I figure I should go ahead and stick them in here. (I know its not as simple as sticking them in there)"


HAVE YOU LOST YOUR F ING MIND??????!!!!!!!!

how about this, change the lim gaskets if they need to be changed. if metal dont touch it. change the valve cover gaskets, maybe the oil pan gasket if its wet.


forget the 180 t stat too, waste of time. does jack sh it.

dont you dare touch the bottom end, or the lifters, leave running well enough. drop it in and enjoy a running engine in your car.
 
^hot damn I agree with Scotty nothing wrong with the bottom ends of these motors until they get touched. Also 180 does nothing unless your tuned for it. And obviously the lim and all those gasket will need done. So better off just doing it now
 
Scottydoggs said:
"-Replace rod bearings, again, I bought these when trying to save the old engine. Never ran them in the engine so I figure I should go ahead and stick them in here. (I know its not as simple as sticking them in there)"


HAVE YOU LOST YOUR F ING MIND??????!!!!!!!!

how about this, change the lim gaskets if they need to be changed. if metal dont touch it. change the valve cover gaskets, maybe the oil pan gasket if its wet.


forget the 180 t stat too, waste of time. does jack sh it.

dont you dare touch the bottom end, or the lifters, leave running well enough. drop it in and enjoy a running engine in your car.
Click to expand...
Easy now. Thats why I'm posting this **** on here so I don't **** up or do something I shouldn't. I've said it before and I'll say it again here, I'm accepting of feedback/suggestions both positive and negative. Havent lost my ****ing mind, looking for advice.

Sent from my Tab3
 
you got some then lol :th_jester:

you never open up the rods or mains on a good engine. its the kiss of death. take those bearings you have and return them to the store.

if your taking the tranny off to do work on that, re do the engine rear main seal and the plate back theres gasket. so it dont leak later on or it fixes a current leak.
 


I was just about to chew your ass out when I read that you were going to replace the rod bearing. Thankfully Scotty saved your ass. Sheesh
 
to late, i quoted it already its there for everyone so see. lol

your not the first one thats had to be set straight. some wont listen. dont worry. just leave the rods and mains alone.
 
Scottydoggs said:
to late, i quoted it already its there for everyone so see. lol

your not the first one thats had to be set straight. some wont listen. dont worry. just leave the rods and mains alone.
Click to expand...
Damn it, lol. Busted, for all to read. I wasn't just set straight, you beat me down man, lol. It's okay, I've recovered. Not touching the rods. Keeping all the parts though. Just to make sure the engine is running well. If all is good then they'll go back to the parts store. Thanks for setting me straight.

Sent from my Tab3
 


i was being more sarcastic then harsh lol


thing is most think these engines are like a small block Chevy, bust it open slap new bearings in and life goes on. that dont work on a 3800. you open up the mains and the block will twist. then it needs shop work and crank work, then new bearings.

for the most part if you change the oil this engine can run for 300,000 plus. lots of us over 200,000. im one of them.
 
Scottydoggs said:
i was being more sarcastic then harsh lol


thing is most think these engines are like a small block Chevy, bust it open slap new bearings in and life goes on. that dont work on a 3800. you open up the mains and the block will twist. then it needs shop work and crank work, then new bearings.

for the most part if you change the oil this engine can run for 300,000 plus. lots of us over 200,000. im one of them.
Click to expand...
It's all good. Will probably give some a good laugh and others will shake their heads and then BillBoost will just sit back and say WTF!!! LOL. I know not to open up the mains, just guess I didn't know that I couldn't put some new bearings in it without causing issues. Lesson learned on that and my GPF education continues.

Sent from my Tab3
 
REDCOMPG said:
Now would be the time to check the oil pan for any leaks and clean it up and throw some rtv on it if needed.
Click to expand...
Yep, got a brand new oil pan and gasket I'll throw on it. After dropping the pan with the engine in the car, I know it is something to do while it is out..should be much easier.

Sent from my Tab3
 
So if I buy this engine/Trans I was planning on doing the hardened 4th and a TransGo shift kit. I mean the whole thing will be out of the car and it just seems like a good idea to take care of it as preventative maintenance if nothing else. So thoughts on that 1st of all. Second, if I'm going to have the Trans opened up, should I replace the solenoids I've seen others talk about in other transmission threads? Or should I wait and see how it drives? Engine/Trans is a 2003 so I'm talking about something like this...

Alt URL: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4T65E-TRANSMISSION-SOLENOID-KIT-shift-epc-2003-UP-NEW-/330441669618
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top