Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
see how wet the block is around the rear cover? time to re gasket that. and the pan. and a new seal there too.
Sounds like a flexplate noise, if so pulling Eng/Trans
- Thread starter Stoenr
- Start date
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
covers fine, all that dragging was done on the seals lip. and its wet back there, if its wet, its leaking. otherwise it would be dry. the cover and the pan are common leaks, id change em both while its out.
get a lower conversion gasket kit, its the pan front and rear covers oil pick up two new seals, the oil filter housing gasket and water pump.
both the front and rear cover you rtv the bottom 2 inches of both sides of the gasket, the oil pan rtv both sides of the whole thing. and i used thread sealant on the pan bolts.
get a lower conversion gasket kit, its the pan front and rear covers oil pick up two new seals, the oil filter housing gasket and water pump.
both the front and rear cover you rtv the bottom 2 inches of both sides of the gasket, the oil pan rtv both sides of the whole thing. and i used thread sealant on the pan bolts.
Stoenr
New member
Thanks. I already have an oil pan, pick up, new WP and gasket, oil pressure switch, oil filter housing gasket. front timing cover is dry, and around the balancer, rather not even mess with that since its dry on that side. If the cover looks fine, ill just get the cover gasket that comes with the seal.
That brings me to this next question. whats the difference in these 2 sets. Obviously some other straight "gaskets" WTF are those for?
That brings me to this next question. whats the difference in these 2 sets. Obviously some other straight "gaskets" WTF are those for?
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
i think you want the one on the right.
try another parts store and see what part #'s they list to compare part #'s.
the rear covers bolts have small plastic spacers, try not to break them. some might be cracked already, as long as you have a few your still ok.
use blue thread locker on the bolts and snug them up nice, you'll see they are very small bolts and they are likely like hand tight right now. the tq is super low, like 6 in lbs. why i just snugged mine up nice in a X pattern.
take the pan off, then do the cover, use a straight edge across the block and rear cover to make sure its flush with the block. install the new crank seal in the cover before you install it.
edit: remove the low oil sensor from the oil pan before you remove it, or you'll break the sensor.
try another parts store and see what part #'s they list to compare part #'s.
the rear covers bolts have small plastic spacers, try not to break them. some might be cracked already, as long as you have a few your still ok.
use blue thread locker on the bolts and snug them up nice, you'll see they are very small bolts and they are likely like hand tight right now. the tq is super low, like 6 in lbs. why i just snugged mine up nice in a X pattern.
take the pan off, then do the cover, use a straight edge across the block and rear cover to make sure its flush with the block. install the new crank seal in the cover before you install it.
edit: remove the low oil sensor from the oil pan before you remove it, or you'll break the sensor.
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
Stoenr
New member
Today's update. Scraping gaskets with a razor sucks! Wish I still worked at a shop.
some progress today. Not a full day in, late start(story for another time).
Anyway, got he SC coupler swapped out, Oil filter housing off, cleaned and new gasket, back on, new hoses, new water pump on, crank seal and cover on. Got the oil pan and pick up off, cleaned. Not back on yet. Called it a night.
Onto the fun stuff. New crank seal was being a bastard child to get in, decided to change it as it did not look so good upon further inspection. (pics above)
well after fighting with it, something just didn't seem right, it should have gone in much easier. Thinking about it, I think between it taking all that rubbing from the flex plate, and looking at it, and the nasty crap I pulled off the old housing and just below the crank seal on the inside, this thing was actually on fire!!!! That metal had to be glowing!
I pulled from the inside bottom of seal area, what I think was burned, and hardened oil? It was crunchy and just disintegrated in my fingers, smelled AWFUL. makes sense when he smelled something burning the last trip he took in it.
Off to the dealer where my buddy is the parts manager, had a new cover in stock, but no gasket, of course, making for an extra stop to another dealer. Ended up being a 2 hour trip with accidents on the highway, and rush hour traffic. Yaay Chicago-land. OE gasket was nearly 25 bucks!! Holy Jebus! (no discount there) The cover was only $51 with my discount.
Old cover, cleaned up some, with new seal. New cover new seal on the right.
some progress today. Not a full day in, late start(story for another time).
Anyway, got he SC coupler swapped out, Oil filter housing off, cleaned and new gasket, back on, new hoses, new water pump on, crank seal and cover on. Got the oil pan and pick up off, cleaned. Not back on yet. Called it a night.
Onto the fun stuff. New crank seal was being a bastard child to get in, decided to change it as it did not look so good upon further inspection. (pics above)
well after fighting with it, something just didn't seem right, it should have gone in much easier. Thinking about it, I think between it taking all that rubbing from the flex plate, and looking at it, and the nasty crap I pulled off the old housing and just below the crank seal on the inside, this thing was actually on fire!!!! That metal had to be glowing!
I pulled from the inside bottom of seal area, what I think was burned, and hardened oil? It was crunchy and just disintegrated in my fingers, smelled AWFUL. makes sense when he smelled something burning the last trip he took in it.
Off to the dealer where my buddy is the parts manager, had a new cover in stock, but no gasket, of course, making for an extra stop to another dealer. Ended up being a 2 hour trip with accidents on the highway, and rush hour traffic. Yaay Chicago-land. OE gasket was nearly 25 bucks!! Holy Jebus! (no discount there) The cover was only $51 with my discount.
Old cover, cleaned up some, with new seal. New cover new seal on the right.
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
smokin!
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
whats this gasket and cover deal you speak of? ive not heard of a upgraded rear cover at all.
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
i see the two tabs there, but it still looks to be installed from the out side.
Stoenr
New member
Small update, Both of us been busy with work and him school on top of it.
Got a question before putting on the new flex plate.
8 holes, 1 is oblong, and there is an offset to one of them as well. you can install the flex in only 2 positions, so that all 8 holes are lining up. But which of the ones
is the correct? There is an X on the flexplate in between 2 of the holes, next to the oblonged hole, and the holes that are a tad farther apart.
Got a question before putting on the new flex plate.
8 holes, 1 is oblong, and there is an offset to one of them as well. you can install the flex in only 2 positions, so that all 8 holes are lining up. But which of the ones
is the correct? There is an X on the flexplate in between 2 of the holes, next to the oblonged hole, and the holes that are a tad farther apart.
BillBoost37
New member
All bolts should line up in only one position when started and snugged up by hand only. I've done the 180 off due to someone egging a hole, no fun pulling it again lol. You'll be fine...just go easy and it'll line up correctly.
On those rear cover bolts. I would not leave them loose. Personally I used to torque them a pound or two above original spec with blue or red loctite. Loose is bad because you have oil and coolant being sealed at that cover.
On those rear cover bolts. I would not leave them loose. Personally I used to torque them a pound or two above original spec with blue or red loctite. Loose is bad because you have oil and coolant being sealed at that cover.