• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Some more top swap questions! Yay!



No alot of the time is during idle and will clear up when you give it throttle. Remember that picture of that bent rod I showed you when my motor hydro locked when it was N/A? Well I'm not saying you have the same problem but I did what your doing I changed everythingggg then I did a compression test and it was low in cylinder 5 I didn't find the issue untill obviously when I pulled the motor and gutted it but the misfire wasn't even hardly noticeable and if any it was during idle like your car the only reason I knew it was misfiring is because it was throwing a code.

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Lol dude I had a bent rod... it would have blown up if I drove it and hammered on it are you crazy? Then the block and everything would have been junk

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If something major is wrong which I'm leaning towards that considering you changed everything else you can end up with a bigger paper weight then what you have not even trying to sound like a ass hole I'm being honest don't F it up more then it is by driving it untill you figure out what's wrong

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Ya i get that but really i havent looked in what all it would take to rebuild the bottom end but im pretty sure you could just buy a used motor for cheaper if thats what you were going to have to do

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Well see what the compression tests say if i had money on anything id say the valves werent seating properly as of right now i dont have any signs of a blown piston or piston ring

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Yeah hopefully it's the valve I don't feel like it's the rings I'd say chipped piston or valves the fact that you had 4° of kr and your running lean makes it seem more of like a chipped piston to me it could be a really small hole

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Ill take fd up valves all day if thats my options lol. Just out of curiosity how hard is it to replace a piston?

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Take it somewhere don't do it yourself it's not something you should be doing if you never done it before. If it is the piston I'd change them all and put new rings in at the minimum it's dumb not to

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suitercrew said:
Ill take fd up valves all day if thats my options lol. Just out of curiosity how hard is it to replace a piston?

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You dont on a 3800 unless you have one hell of a machine shop sitting in your shed. From what I recall, 3800 cranks wear in an egg shaped style, add a perfectly round new rod to that and you have a spun bearing a week later. Just a piston maybe, but generally people just go to the Jy and buy a motor lol. I went through 3 of them :)
 
Tonkin2000GT said:
Take it somewhere don't do it yourself it's not something you should be doing if you never done it before. If it is the piston I'd change them all and put new rings in at the minimum it's dumb not to

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So if u were to take it somewhere i would dfeffinately assume the price would be crazy expensive and id be better off buying a used l67 and not having to worry about compression.

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Yeah but the problem with that is you could end up with problems like you said you can't find a motor with less then 200,000 miles F that if you build your own you know it's brand new and you should never have to worry about it. Make some phone calls get a estimate it's not as much as you think if do most of the manual labor normal crap yourself.

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I know of at least 3 hell stories of people going to local shops to get motors done and coming out with a spun bearing or tossed rod in a few weeks. It's just easier to get a JY motor and be happy. I made 550+ on a 160k mile motor. Unless you are going for some insane build, its more economical to just go JY
 
Yeah where is this? Some back yard mechanic? The problem is trying to find our motors with lower miles even then your still going to want to go through it and change gaskets while it's in front of you.

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