• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

So, what do I do now?

What option for a shortblock?

  • Mild performance rebuild

    Votes: 8 61.5%

  • Find a decent used shortblock

    Votes: 4 30.8%

  • Aftermarket rebuild

    Votes: 1 7.7%

  • part it out

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    13
  • Poll closed .
alkygto

alkygto

New member
Sounds like the GP has a death knock. :eek:

What is the best option for a shortblock? Mild performance rebuild to compliment the mod list in my sig? Junkyard jewel? Aftermarket rebuild with warranty?

I'm planning on a mild cam, should I remove the balance shaft? I was planning on match porting the LIM and heads, good idea or no? forged pistons? any suggestions there. I have'nt set a budget yet, but i don't want to drop a fortune on it. Trans is stock BTW except for a shift kit, and the car has 150,000 on the ticker.

Oh, I guess the last option is to part it out, I just bought a new car and this would be used as a 3rd car/toy. Yeah, with the new Mercury, that makes a family of five. 2010 Milan, 2002 F-150 , 1997 GTP , 1983 Riviera , 1969 GTO.
 


What mods? Pistons? should I use factory rods, upgrade the fastners? Who's the best source of parts? I have an EPW right up the street and I can get the wholesale prices through a friend of mine, so I guess I need a recommended parts list, if anybody has any suggestions.
 
Factory pistons...as in L67 or L32's...your call. Rods? L32. No question there. Bearings? Whatever...if you run a cam that is aggressive and plan on revving it past 6200 your going to need way stronger valve springs...like 105's to 130's. You should get a new timing chain and dampner...unless you plan on going bigger than an XP you don't need a Double Roller. Heads? Get 'em ported at least on the exhaust side...let it breathe. For the balance shaft...you have to yank it out and on the rear side of the motor there is a oil port that needs to be plugged where the gear sat in. If you plan on taking it apart or want something a little stronger for this time around...head and main studs from ARP are well worth it...

So...list?

ARP Main Studs
ARP Head Studs
L32 Rods
Cam/Main/Rod Bearings from company of your choice
Hastings Piston Rings (or whatever company)
Cam of your choice...S1X or XP are great cams
Stronger valve springs (Crow #105's or Manley #130's if you want to rev it high)
Roller Rockers in 1.6 Ratio if they are in your budget
Machined Block so the mains will line up correctly with the studs...might as well have them put in few oil galley/freeze plugs in there so you know its been done right; trust me. Have it all cleaned out and ready to go. I'd have your valves cleaned up too and the heads reassembled with Comp Locks/Viton Seals and new valve guides.
 
Thanks Blue. I guess I'll start putting together a price list.

What is the best source for the L32 rods?

Will the tranny live? I've just got the shift kit and an external cooler (I know) but I've had no issue's with it.

I don't have it yanked out yet, what are the odd's the block is trashed?

At least I've got time on my hand's, I plan on storing the Goat at my inlaws this winter, so I'll have a free bay in the garage. I enjoy working on my own junk, just not when I have to :th_laugh-lol2:. My goal is just to do this right, do it once and not create an undrivable monster. I've already got one of those. lol. At least now I can take the Optima battery out of the GTP and put it in the Goat, that's all I need, and some methanol!
 


Ive been curious about a zzp short block I know how much a full rebuild costs a warrenty wouldnt be a bad thing Guess it all depends on need s out of the car and budget...
 
There isn't anything wrong with L67 rods, so if you have a hard time finding L32's, those will still work just fine.
 
Well.... for cost reasons I am considering stock pistons (if I can get away with standard bore) and stock rods with ARP fasteners (reconditioned rods) main studs, XP cam with stock rockers, a stock replacement chain and good quality bearings and rings.

Are there any little "tricks" to do to the shortblock for reliability and power? Windage tray, crank scraper, polish the stock rods etc.?

ZZP's shortblock is tempting, but with a new car payment, I'm gonna have to do this myself. Are there any good writeups on this?

I've built other engines before, but this is my first 3800 build, so I want to do it right, I don't want to say gee, I wish I would have done ______ while I had it apart. :th_winking:
 
IMO, a simple stock bottom end will do with a mild setup. Stock bolts, pistons, rods, all that. ARP Studs in the bottom end really doesn't make a difference to me, and when I put my motor together, I only went with the head studs. Couldn't be happier.
 


Hey Reptile, my cars a 97 and I have an extra computer, can I mail it to you for a tune after the cam and stuff?
 
Yea if moneys an issue Id say get a low mileage short block. when I did my block machine and gaskets,oil pump,lifters, and so on were 1200 alone Now if i had it to do over I might have considered a zzp block But hell it was worth the experiance
 
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