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smallest S/C pulley with no other mods

Ok, so I have a gt and i am doing a top swap soon with a ported SC. what is the lowest I can go when i top swap with the mods i have: cold air intake, u bend delete, after market muffs with 2.5 from y to muffs, and these at time of swap (180 t stat, plugs, wires, and obviously a good tune)??

then later on if i choose to get down pipe and 2.5" out the back or downpipe and cutout what then?
 


Scimmia said:
Massive KR could very well make the car slower than with a stock pulley. Not only that, you start chipping pistons with all of that pinging and I guarantee it's slower when it doesn't move.
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i will take your bet. stock gtp vs gtp w/ONLY a 3.4 pulley.

i bet the pullied car wins over and over and over.
 
Hey, I said nothing about a bet, only that it could very well be possible. The car with the 3.4 only may very well be fast, atleast for a while.
 
eh, ive been beating on my car for a while on the 3.4 untuned. if i scanned it i would assume that with the cold weather i could get up to 5* of knock.

i need to fill up my meth tank, stat. then i need someone to program in my happy knob to i can use moooooorrre timinggggg.
 
Bio248 said:
i will take your bet. stock gtp vs gtp w/ONLY a 3.4 pulley.

i bet the pullied car wins over and over and over.
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Been there done that on my black GTP a couple years ago. I started off with a used Thrasher CAI, AL104s, and a DUB setup with a stock size 3.8" (yes DUB makes a 3.8", i've had it for years. I have a 3.8", 3.4", 3.25", 3.0", 2.9"). On a couple track outings I tested this theory while momma was racing it. There was a constant .3 and a couple MPH difference in each run. The 3.8" was faster every time period, the 3.4" made it knock more and slowed it down. I had a Scanmaster, It had a couple degrees of KR w/ the 3.8", it had around 5-7 degrees with the 3.4". Guess what pulley that car stayed with UNTIL it was properly modded? Ummm yeah.

Believe what you want, but this was real world testing done on the same night with the same car. The 3.4" NEVER made the car any faster, it just made more noise. Me actully driving it with the 3.4", I thought it felt slower. I probably still have the slips somewhere. You can clearly tell which ones had the 3.4" and which ones had the 3.8".

The car is actully a little bit of a different animal now. All on a budget but done right too...
 


MNGP07 said:
Ok, so I have a gt and i am doing a top swap soon with a ported SC. what is the lowest I can go when i top swap with the mods i have: cold air intake, u bend delete, after market muffs with 2.5 from y to muffs, and these at time of swap (180 t stat, plugs, wires, and obviously a good tune)??

then later on if i choose to get down pipe and 2.5" out the back or downpipe and cutout what then?
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With an intake, dp and a canned tune i had 12+ degrees of knock, so like a 4.2 maybe.........tune, headers should go on with a top swap, I mean think about it, a top swap is a 100% intake mod, you've gotta adjust the exhaust to make up for it..... and cat-backs do very little power and flow wise on our platform
 
02BlueGT said:
With an intake, dp and a canned tune i had 12+ degrees of knock, so like a 4.2 maybe.........tune, headers should go on with a top swap, I mean think about it, a top swap is a 100% intake mod, you've gotta adjust the exhaust to make up for it..... and cat-backs do very little power and flow wise on our platform
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Damn!!! ok so if i got headers as well.....then what are we talkin??
 


12* of knock i would say 103's till you get things straightened out. wires are up to you, stock work just fine its just that there a pain to deal with, get on and off
 
blowfishRus6 said:
12* of knock i would say 103's till you get things straightened out. wires are up to you, stock work just fine its just that there a pain to deal with, get on and off
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Im assuming i wont have that much knock when i do top swap, but obviously i dont know yet....
 
blue gt said he had 12* that is alot. top swaps have more compression because of the bottom end making more power on the same amout of boost, but also more knock
 
only point of having a smaller pulley is to keep your boost up after doing free flowing mods that make the engine flow better. thats the way it makes power otherwise you wind up getting serious knock and you wind up boost stacking.
 


2000GTP said:
only point of having a smaller pulley is to keep your boost up after doing free flowing mods that make the engine flow better. thats the way it makes power otherwise you wind up getting serious knock and you wind up boost stacking.
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there is no such thing as "boost stacking". that is a stupid term to refer to making too much boost because of too much flow restriction. the m90 is ALWAYS "boost stacking" otherwise it wouldn't make boost. ;)
 
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