SLP Header Installed

[J_Ferguson]

Well that was a fun day.... :roll:
Got the SLP Headers done and only took me 6 1/2 hrs to do it....
Car sounds just a bit louder then it was this is good....
Now here is the problem i have a studdering problem.. well i don't the car does lol
as soon as you step on her she she does a - - --- -- - .
I had this happen before and found that the plug wires were off .
It is to dark to be messing around out there tonight to check further on
this but they all seem to be tight....
Now could this be because i still have the stock plugs in the car ?
I realize i need a colder plug with my mods now 104's or ..

Anyone have any info on this for me thanks..

By the way i did not do the EGR Delete....

My Mods are..
DHP tuned
3.4 pully
3" pipe back to the Y
Flow Master 40"s
SLP Headers 3" DP
Stock plugs
Shimmy's Plug wires. 4 Core

 

[VinnieGTP]

Did it start right away? The rear plug wires come VERY close to the primaries and arc after the jacket melts off causeing a killer missfire. Usually it's #3 or 5.

 

[J_Ferguson]

yes it fires up no problem and i have the metal boots
covers on the plug wires and have the wires them self moved away from the headers so they do not come close to touching...
Thanks for the responce but am going out in a few to check and scan the car
to find out what is up...

 

[IndeedSS]

Did you disconnect your battery while you did the install? This would reset the fuel trims.
As mention above probably just a plug wire. It's possible you cracked a plug especially on the rear 3. Scanner ftw.

 

[J_Ferguson]

Well no scan for me tonight
as my Daughter took my Laptop to school with her today..
so tomorow will find out.

I did not see the need to disconnect the battery for this install
so did not.

Car runs fine and even went out for a boot normal driving no
problems but step on it and it begins to chug.. let off and is fine

It was a tight fit so could be a cracked plug or the plug wire on the back has let lose after tying them back...

I realize i need new plugs now anyways so going to get the BRISK Plugs
as i have heard alot of good reviews on these...

These plugs have the same rating as the Autolite 104's
thanks for the feed back..
John

 

[Reptile]

Depending on how old your wires are, they could easily be damaged when you take them off, then bend them to re-route them again.

 

[VinnieGTP]

Well....keep us posted. Hopefully it's a misfire and a cheap fix.

 

[J_Ferguson]

Depending on how old your wires are, they could easily be damaged when you take them off, then bend them to re-route them again.

I will check these also, but
No i replaced then they are new, but i am going to check them tomorrow
anyways just to leave no stone unturned.

 

[J_Ferguson]

Well....keep us posted. Hopefully it's a misfire and a cheap fix.

Thanks i will and i'm hopping it is just a plug..
Like i said it feels like the last time this happened and that is what it was
a lose plug wire..
But i am still learning so is better to ask those that know alot more
about this..
thanks all for the responces..

John

 

[SyntheticShield]

I realize i need new plugs now anyways so going to get the BRISK Plugs
as i have heard alot of good reviews on these...

These plugs have the same rating as the Autolite 104's
thanks for the feed back..
John

I would consider it a huge favor if if you would give me as much detailed information about those plugs, how they work for you, gains, losses, idle quality and all that good stuff. I have really been wanting to try a set of those but just havent heard much about them from the GP community.

I sidegap my plugs (AL 605's) to get the same electrode exposure as those plugs and I would love to have a set of plugs that just came already like that.

Anyway, any information you can give would be much appreciated. Particularly if you have any information as what AL 104's, 605's and so on would be in that particular plug, as in part numbers, etc.

 

[Meemperor]

Brisks are pretty good, Haven't used them yet but I will in the summer.

Anyway, it sound like a plug wire is broken or loose !

 

[J_Ferguson]

Hi Scott,
I will send you all the info i have for these plugs,
and from the 3 ppl that i know that run them swear by them.
Not only do they improve on gas milage but you can feel the difference
in the car because of the plugs...
Now that is quite the statement to make right...
Well since i have a very hi millage car with .. see pic

i do a oil change every 3 to 3 1/2 months and this includes plugs
filter and inspection of car wires hoses ect..
so gets costly..
These guys have been running the same plugs for over 1 year now
with no drop in there performance that they can notice...
This to me sounds like a plug that i need and worth looking at ...

I will know more about them on the weekend when i pick them up
and will do a follow up on them over the next 6 months after i install them..

Here is the web site for the plugs
BRISK
Brisk Racing :: LGS SPARK PLUG

 

[IndeedSS]

If I have my info right, here is a cross-reference:

BRISK # GOR17LGS – TR55IX – AL 606
BRISK # GOR15LGS – TR6IX – AL 605
BRISK # GOR14LGS – TR7IX – AL 104

Please research further as I know the TR55IX is an OEM plug and comes pregapped at .059, the TR6IX is one step colder and is pregapped at .039.

 

[SyntheticShield]

If I have my info right, here is a cross-reference:

BRISK # GOR17LGS – TR55IX – AL605
BRISK # GOR15LGS – TR6IX – AL 104
BRISK # GOR14LGS – TR7IX – AL 103

Please research further as I know the TR55IX is an OEM plug and comes pregapped at .059, the TR6IX is one step colder and is pregapped at .039.

Thank you so much, the both of you. We need to get this posted somewhere permanently.

 

[J_Ferguson]

Here aremy scan results from this morning..

Results of the scan this morning....

this is after the code was cleared and refreshed

I get a DTC because i have a hole in my tank that needs to be replaced
NOTE the E-Vap P0442 code..

can someone shed some light...

Thanks John

 

[Fish]

You have a hole in your tank?? Thats interesting. I am actually throwing a P1442 which according to my list is

Evaporative Emission System Flow During Non-Purge.

 

[SyntheticShield]

What in the world are you using for a scan tool? That looks pretty sweet.

The emission status will show Not Ready and Not Complete after you clear a check engine light and will show that until the next emissions test is run by the computer. In fact, in states that do ODB II emissions testing will fail you if they see this. I forgot exactly how long it takes before it runs another test but it wasnt very long.

 

[J_Ferguson]

That is the Autotap scanner Scott

I like it gives you lots of info ....

Now i just need to learn how to use it right lol

I should have a new tank and gas lines in by the time i have to
go for the tests and will be ready for it ..

 

[MTXGTP]

i want but i was looking over it and nothing seems to be abnormal but im no pro

 

[IndeedSS]

Thank you so much, the both of you. We need to get this posted somewhere permanently.

A note on those plugs. They look very similar to something JCWhitney used to sell in the 70"s called splitfire plugs iirc. Those were proven to be a gimmick. I believe that since current will travel the path of least resistance that more than likely these plugs will only fire one direction or eventually will. Realizing someone here knows a couple of people with good results, I'm still suspicious of things like this.

There doesn't seem to be much information etc on that website. Also these are $14.00 each? One would think that if this was such a good design that the big name guys would be all over it, trying to leg-up one another.

I almost ordered these as my 103 racing plugs are probably at the end of there life. Something told me not to, and just use the Autolites or NGK's

This should have it's own thread so we don't crap up the OP request for help.