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Shaking and braking

Calipers are easy to replace but it it is sticking and that hot I would say you probably ruined the rotor as well I am leaning towards the sherrife theroy actually it was what I was going to suggest but he beat me to it
 


for some reason i couldnt get all the pictures except for this one to copy from the repair manual but i hope this helps some



Front Brake Caliper Replacement (First Design)

[h=3]Removal Procedure[/h]
  1. Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
  2. If the brake fluid level is midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, then no brake fluid needs to be removed from the reservoir before proceeding. If the brake fluid level is higher than midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, then remove brake fluid to the midway point before proceeding.
  3. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
  4. Remove the front tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
  5. Hand tighten 2 wheel lug nuts to retain the rotor to the hub.
    showGif_zps66e21916.png
  7. Install a large C-clamp (2) over the top of the brake caliper and against the back of the outboard brake pad.
  8. Tighten the C-clamp until the caliper piston is pushed into the caliper bore enough to slide the caliper off the rotor.
  9. Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.
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  10. Remove the brake hose-to-caliper bolt (1) from the caliper. Discard the 2 copper brake hose gaskets (3). These gaskets may be stuck to the brake caliper and/or the brake hose end.
  11. Plug the opening in the front brake hose (2) to prevent excessive brake fluid loss and contamination. Important: When servicing the caliper, the first design hardware will be upgraded to the second design with the revised hardware kit, which includes new caliper pin bolts.

    %5CDocuments%20and%20Settings%5CAdministrator%5CDesktop%5CDocument%20ID%20795445_files%5CshowGif%282%29.png

  12. Remove the caliper bolts (3) and discard.
  13. Remove the caliper (1) from the rotor and the caliper bracket (2).
  14. Replace the first design disc brake hardware. Refer to Front Disc Brake Hardware Replacement .
[h=3]Installation Procedure[/h]

  1. %5CDocuments%20and%20Settings%5CAdministrator%5CDesktop%5CDocument%20ID%20795445_files%5CshowGif%283%29.png


  2. Install the caliper over the rotor and onto the caliper bracket. Ensure that the caliper pin boots are not pinched.
  3. Apply lubricant, GM P/N 18047666 or equivalent, to the caliper bolts (4). Do not lubricate the threads.
    %5CDocuments%20and%20Settings%5CAdministrator%5CDesktop%5CDocument%20ID%20795445_files%5CshowGif%284%29.png


    Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
    Important: The leading caliper pin, or top pin, has a bushing as part of the assembly. The trailing caliper pin, or bottom pin, is a solid design.
  4. Install the caliper bolts (1). It is important to note which caliper pin is designed for the correct bore. The leading caliper pin, or top pin, has a bushing as part of the assembly. The trailing caliper pin, or bottom pin, is a solid design. Ensure that the bolt boots fit securely in the groove of the pin bolts. Be sure not to pinch or tear the boots. If the boots are damaged, they must be replaced. Tighten
    Tighten the bolts to 95 N·m (70 lb ft).

    %5CDocuments%20and%20Settings%5CAdministrator%5CDesktop%5CDocument%20ID%20795445_files%5CshowGif%281%29.png


    Important: Install NEW copper brake hose gaskets.
  5. Assemble the brake hose bolt (1) and the NEW copper brake hose gaskets (3) to the brake hose (2).
  6. Install the brake hose-to-caliper bolt to the brake caliper. Tighten
    Tighten the bolt to 54 N·m (40 lb ft).
  7. Remove the 2 wheel lug nuts retaining the rotor to the hub.
  8. Install the front tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
  9. Lower the vehicle.
  10. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level with clean brake fluid. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling in Hydraulic Brakes.
  11. Bleed the brake system. Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding in Hydraulic Brakes.
  12. Inspect the hydraulic brake system for brake fluid leaks.
 
radiating heat is a indication of IMO a warped rotor which could be caused by numerous things...emergency stops overly aggresive braking. I would go with getting the rotor turned, which is cheap and go from there the brake place will also be able to tell you if your caliper is seized or not. but since youre selling id just go with getting the rotors turned in front. the heat issue would be the caliper first then if need be replace wheel bearing
 
i didnt write it. i copied it from the GM Repair manuals...i cant take credit for something that good haha
 
I didn't get your instructions in time, but am going to save and file them for next one I go to do. Finished it yesterday, in the pouring rain, and I mean pouring (wasn't raining when I started, actually quite nice for canada in January). Right when I was finished and ready to put the wheel back on, the rain ended up washing the ground out from under the wheel chocks and jack stands and dropping the car, luckily when the jack stand fell, it fell sideways, so the frame came to rest on top of that and my brand new shiny rotor was just barely touching the ground, which was liquified reground asphalt at the time, so didn't even seem to scrape the new rotor. Luckily my brother and law happened to pull up at the time with his tiny little foreign car with it's tiny little jack, which was just tiny enough to fit under the car enough to get it up high enough to get my dolly jack (the one I never use because it doesn't even jack the car up high enough to get the jack stands that came with it into place, yay canadian tire), but jacked it enough to get the tire on and bolted. Oh, and I reused the copper washers, as the video I found at the time said it was okay, but just some advice to anybody doing this in the future, the brake hose fitting has a coppery color to it, make absolutely sure that the coper washer is on there, it looks like there's one even if there isn't (especially in the dark in pouring rain). If you don't, when you try to bleed you could get a face full of brake fluid, and that stuff tastes nasty, trust me. Anyway, turned out the rotor was horribly warped and the caliper was seized closed (not seized really, would only tighten and not let go) and now my mileage (according to that incredibly accurate onboard computer) has gone from 17mpg to 35mpg. Went from looking like a cv joint/bearing/02 sensor job to a simple caliper/rotor job, which I can't complain about one bit. Thank you all for your help btw.
 


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