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Serious part throttle kr and stalling.

if you had an HP Tuner, you could disable your ac compressor and then see what happened, I'm not sure if DHP can do that.
 


suitercrew said:
Do you know if O'Reilly or autozone does that? I know they test the batterys but Idk about alternstors?

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They do. It's also free. They have a test machine that it plugs/bolts up to and they put it under typical load conditions.
 
Well thanks guys. Looks like I'm taking a trip to oreillys and taking the car apart in their parking lot ☺

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Well I replaced my fpr today since I had a spare and I was getting a fuel smell from the vacuum hose connected to it, no change like I expected. The slow response for my front o2 sensor code came up again I'm just not sure I should go spend 60$ on something when theres a good chance its something else. Plus ministering o2 data it looks farely normal and does shoot up to the 900s when I go heavy throttle

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Swapped plug wires from cylinder 2 & 4 with no change keep in mind I'm seeing misfires in all cylinders at least on startup cylinder 2 is just the most prominent one. Also changed fuel filter and that didn't change anything. When I was relieving the fuel pressure to do the filter though towards then end it was still pressurized but only air was coming out of it? Does this mean my fuel pump is sucking air and maybe that's my problem?

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Does anyone have knowledge of where the orings are in the fuel system. The problem has finally gotten bad enough that I can tell its going lean with the wideband and more importantly the car is running worse after changing the fuel filter which wouldn't make any sense except I noticed the oring on the filter was not looking to good but figured I'd re use it and check for leaks. There are no visual leaks but before I replaced the filter the system was atleast somewhat holding pressure and now its not holding pressure.

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I went ahead and replaced it just because I found one that would work in my collection. I hope to get a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to it tomorrow. I'm gonna pull the pump out tonight just to inspect it though

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The first thing that comes to mind is maybe your o2 sensor/ commanded fuel is getting messed up. I had a problem when using my plx wideband gauge to send the signal back to the pcm. But because the wire was relatively un shielded and running next to my amp power. It woukd go out of whack every now and then. It would work fine and then go whacky. Once it went whacky my car would over fuel, lean out sometimes and stall. Dont know if you are using your wideband to send the signal back to the pcm... but just and idea

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w3tbanana said:
But in general it sounds like a fueling problem. Injectors all good as well?

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Ya I don't have my wide band connected to the pcm. I did get an o2 slow response code but am nervous about spending 60$ on something that I really don't think will fix the problem. The o2 data is only used in closed loop which is basically normal cruising around town or at idle after your warmed up. My problem is at idle before and after warmed up but I have zero problems and zero misfires cruising around and then at wot when the o2 sensor data is once again not being used I have issues. So Idk man I'm going insane. I think its fueling but if it was fueling why would it happen at idle with such a low load on the engine but then be fine cruising around town at basically anything under 40% throttle. It just doesn't make sense. Hppefully my dad can come over tomorow with his fuel pressure tester and compression tester. I'm just really hopeful its not a chipped piston or something but when I pulled the spark plugs they all looked perfect. No build up or deposits on them. Basically brand new with a hint of burn on them. Ive had the car over 2 years and never replaced the crankshaft or camshaft position sensor I know normally the car just won't start if one is bad but I'm wondering if I have one that is just half dead or something.

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Try just unplugging the sensor. If it still runs fine at idle, you can rule that out. I drove my Buick with no 02 sensor for a month before finally getting things back to normal. I use the stock sensor, and tapped my down pipe for the wide band. Damn is it hard to find taps that big in Kanuckistan

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w3tbanana said:
Try just unplugging the sensor. If it still runs fine at idle, you can rule that out. I drove my Buick with no 02 sensor for a month before finally getting things back to normal. I use the stock sensor, and tapped my down pipe for the wide band. Damn is it hard to find taps that big in Kanuckistan

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My innovate wideband came with the bung but I guess that's just because I'm cool haha. I'm going to the junkyard tomorrow to pick up whatever random parts I think might help. Like a new map sensor. An alternator. A non venturi fuel canister. Hmm any other ideas I should grab while I'm there that could potentially help me out. Like maybe a new friggin engine lol

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So I just went to start my car and it started fine but I noticed the dic, stereo, and cel codes were all reset like the battery had just been pulled or something. But I haven't touched the battery??

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Dear geez people ok. So I seemed to have 90% fixed the problem. I added 8% to my fuel trims and upped my timing advance a couple degrees and now the misfire at idle is gone and going wot is sometimes perfect and sometimes has a little hick up but nothing like it was before. The problem is I'm now running a 10.1 afr and I still am having random cylinder misfire according to the aeroforce I just can't really feel it. So why did adding a butt ton of fuel bandaid my problem?

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