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Serious part throttle kr and stalling.

suitercrew

suitercrew

New member
So today when I was driving I was getting a ridiculous amount if part throttle kr. I'm talk anywhere from 1-10* which before today I never had any part throttle kr. I tried going WOT A couple times and I didn't get any kr but the engine was bogging down / cutting out. Then I am coasting to a stop light and wham car dies. After a couple minutes of cranking it I was able to get it going again. Things you should know: It was driving perfectly fine last night, the only thing I did between last night and this morning was put 3 gallons of e54 in it that I had sitting in a regular gas container for about 2 weeks. My aeroforce isn't showing any new pending codes, it is also not showing that I'm misfiring on any of the cylinders. My fuel trims are ridiculously out of whack completely random I can be idling and my trims go -20 then at the next light stopped and idling they could be +15, in general cruising they seemed to be on the lean side of +10/+15 What the heck is wrong. I just installed aem e85 pump maybe a month ago. Fuel filter is kind of old but I'd fine it weird it would all of the sudden go bad rather then gradually. Plugs are autolite 104s with about 10k on them which I recently pulled and they still looked good so I put them back in. My wideband #s look pretty normal. Generally speaking it idles perfectly normal, not like its misfiring and jerking.

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I also done have any obvious vac leaks and vac gauge is reading a normal 18-20ish at idle

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FordMan77 said:
I'd think maybe you got some bad gas? Maybe try burning that out and filling it up with some fresh.
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That's what I'm thinking when I filled the gas can I also filled my car and the car ran fine which means something would have happened to the gas while it was sitting in the canister.

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Scottydoggs said:
fuel pump could be weak, no fuel and you'll see kr. and lean ltft's.
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Ya its just a practically brand new pump so that just seeks unlikely. Engine temp got up to 220 today which is why I'm always complaining about my pos 5/8 radiator. But anyway once it cools down im going to for starters unplug my fp hotwire wireless and plug back in the stock wiring just to check the wiring. If there's still a problem in going to run the pump and drain all the fuel out and refill with new. Luckily I have under a 1/4 tank

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pop a pressure tester on the rail, see what your getting, you need 43 or more to run well.

i got a 5/8's rad a 195 t stat, fans tuned to 180, and i dont get much over 205. same as it ran with the one inch rad that cracked. same temps with the l67 that is as. and the same now with the bottom swap set up now.

your rad might be clogged up, or the water pump is rotting away. or your fans dont turn on as they should?
 
Radiator, and water pump are less then a year old I have a 180tstat and fans tuned to turn on at 180 I have checked fans as well. I'm telling you man its this **** ass 120* weather in a black car cr*p. Its like there's this certain breaking point. It could be 100* and the car will stay right at 180-185 but anything hotter then that and engine temp just goes out the window and don't even get me started on a/c. Can't even use it because temps creep into the 230+ range with that running.

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maybe your ac compressor is pooched and putting a drag on the engine? mine dont care if the ac is on or not, black car too. lol damn thing is like a oven.
 


When was the last time you blasted some water through the condenser and rad to clean them out? Maybe they're getting plugged with road junk and cutting cooling efficiency.
 
FordMan77 said:
When was the last time you blasted some water through the condenser and rad to clean them out? Maybe they're getting plugged with road junk and cutting cooling efficiency.
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I haven't since they were replaced a year ago but if I can figure out this stupid part throttle kr and stall issue next week I will be installing a intercooler, which I then had plans to do a full coolant system flush and switch to the green coolant then.

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Hey Scotty you want to look over a dhp scan I just took? I also popped a p0133 pending cel (slow response bank 1 o2 sensor) but I was monitering the sensor and it looks like its right but I'm not an expert.

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Ya even that o2 is less then 6 months old. Can a bad o2 really cause such severe problems?

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check the wires to it. if they are good, replace it. i just had one go bad that was not really old, nor did it have many miles on it.
 
O2 sensor wire get burned on header / manifold? intermittent contact causing screwy readings = poor fueling
 
You're going to need a bigger radiator in those hot temps if you have an intercooler. Get at least a 1" radiator.

Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? I'm leaning towards a bad pump. Aem pumps don't have the greatest reputation.

A bad o2 will cause it to die, but it won't keep it from restarting. It should fire right back up and run normal for 30 seconds or so.
 
GTPpower said:
You're going to need a bigger radiator in those hot temps if you have an intercooler. Get at least a 1" radiator.

Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? I'm leaning towards a bad pump. Aem pumps don't have the greatest reputation.

A bad o2 will cause it to die, but it won't keep it from restarting. It should fire right back up and run normal for 30 seconds or so.
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Ya Idk I swapped my fuel pump rewire back to stock wiring and didn't seem to change much. Although I wasnt getting any kr at all last night when I took it for a drive around the block but when I was checking things out last night I found a metal clamp broke and was sitting on the exhaust rattling around. So now I'm barely certain the kr was false and would explain why it was happening more at highway speeds with that stupid thing blowing around. Now I just need to figure out the stupid pump. It is non venturi in a venture canister but I have run it like that for a while with no problems.

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