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Seeking advice on rear wheel bearing



when the wheel is off, can you grab the caliper and make it move any, side to side like its supposed to move on the slider pins?

they should move a bit. if they are tight after hitting the brakes something is holding them up.
 
No Scotty there was not much movement at all from the floating caliper bolts.
SOO I went out and bought an new bracket and new pad clips (incase the new ones I had on already warped with the 400º temps) . I noticed the pads went on with less effort and move a little more freely with the new bracket. And you can now move the caliper on the floating bolts.
Took it for a short test drive of 12mi, doing mostly 50mph. Rotor still got to 135º, the strut where it mounts to the knuckle was 120ºF, caliper 95ºF. The other rear wheel was only 60ºF at the rotor.

Now everything has been replaced. I'm worried about my brand new KYB strut getting destroyed. Can't be good for them to get to 125-200ºF. Tomorrow I will get it on the highway again and see how hot it gets. I'm about to take a belt sander to the pads and take 1/16th off of them. I don't know what else to do, quite frustrated..its been weeks.
 
any chance you have the old pads laying around? if so toss them on and see if they drag.

or grind the new ones like you said.
 
Take your calipers off the brackets, and see if there's grease on the sliders. If your rotor is that hot, it isn't the fault of a bad wheel bearing. If you really had a bad wheel bearing at an earlier point, it most likely caused excessive wheel runout, causing the brakes to drag and create excessive heat, which can bind up sliders.

Grease the slider pins with high temperature grease, as well as coat the the shims that hold the brake pads with copper anti-seize and/or clean them of rust.

The only time you'll get high temps in rotors is when you have pads, calipers, or something of the sort dragging in your braking system. Heat created in wheel bearings won't radiate that much heat to your rotors.
 


I might have them.. I know i threw a couple away I don't recall if they were F or R.
I still wish I had some sort of reasoning as to why I may have to grind the pads on the driver side but not passenger. Front has been great I'm still not used to the brakes being so good, along with the pass-rear.
Driver-rear...Makes no sense. Everything is new...
 
Your reading of 135° isn't abnormal, when a car comes in the shop for brakes I have to wear gloves since they were always just on the road, they will burn. They get hot naturally. What were the other readings on the other side at the time it was 135?
 
02NavyBlue said:
Your reading of 135° isn't abnormal, when a car comes in the shop for brakes I have to wear gloves since they were always just on the road, they will burn. They get hot naturally. What were the other readings on the other side at the time it was 135?
Click to expand...
Oh and the otherside was at 65ºF at rotor. Yea I wouldn't be concerned Blue if it hasn't reached 330ºF and 400+ a couple times already.

BUT It might be fixed, but the steady rain & 35º Chicago temp has me skeptical.
Drove 6mi averaging 45mph, stopped to take temps: Driver-rear was 105ºF at rotor / 95ºF at knuckle-strut mount. Pass-rear was 70ºF at rotor / 72ºF at knuckle. THEN jumped on expway for 2mi @ 70mph: Driver-rear 125 at rotor / 85 at knuckle-strut mount. Pass-rear was 79 at rotor / 70 at knuckle.
Stopped at store for 45min then got back on expway for 7mi at 63mph: Driver-rear was 110 rotor / 105 knuckle. Pass-rear was 75 rotor / 68 knuckle.
It was raining real steady all the way home tho so these readings are definitely affected.
 
I'm not sure why one side would be hotter, but since you've replaced everything there really can't be something wrong with that wheel. I don't think anything else can cause brakes to drag if everything is replaced and greased. Given that the bracket replacement changed the temps majorly I'm sure you can consider it fixed though.
 
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