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Secondary Air Pump Code P0411 Help

H

hx214

New member
Working on my sisters 2006 Grand Prix Base with 3800 engine.

It threw the secondary air pump code P0411.

Couldn't hear the pump running, so picked one up from Rock Auto and installed it. When I took the old pump out, I dumped about a soda can full of nasty water out of it. Kind of confused me as to how that happend, but put new pump on, cleared the code, drove for 20 miles and no light. (Light used to come on as soon as you drove it down the street with the old pump) so I thought I fixed it, and gave it back to her. She takes the car into town, does a few things and heads home and the light comes on again throwing the same code.

I've since read that the water in the old pump was most likely cause by the check valve. My sister doesn't live very close to me, so I want to hit all the issues this code could be throwing so I don't have to keep chasing ghosts and bringing the car back and forth. I told her to run it at a minimum so we don't get water back in the pump.

I ordered the check valve here...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_i=507846

And I ordered the correct relay replacement from Advance Auto.

So with the pump, check valve and relay replaced, could I be missing anything else that might be tripping this code? (aside from burnt wires or connections, or a bad hose, which all checked out)

I'm going to check all the grounds for loose wires, but anyone fimilar with this system know if there are any other inline check valves or soleniods along this system?

Also, I've read that this check valve install can be a bigger job. Read to unhook front engine mount and slide everything forward to get access to the valve? Can anyone confirm?

Thanks for any help!
 


The valve is easy to replace, just rock the engine forward like you mentioned. With the engine mount dog bones taken off, the e-brake off, and the car in park, push the car forward and back. That will make the engine rock forwards and backwards, and when it jumps forward, slam the e-brake. That will hold the engine forward without using straps.

The hardest part is taking out the two lower bolts that hold the bracket and valve to the engine, they're against the firewall basically. Then two nuts that hold the metal tubing which are down in the same spot, but are actually visible.

To find the rear bolts for the bracket, I just follow the bracket down to the end and feel for them, they actually hold both of the brackets on the rear of the engine.

That's basically it, the rest you'll figure out as soon as you see it. I've had mine off a bunch of times, but now I'm getting that code too. I hate how vague the code is, basically anything can be wrong in the system. I'm hoping the exhaust leak in my downpipe gasket is the cause. I'm pretty sure it's just the pump, relay,and check valve on the 04+.
 
nik12937 said:
The valve is easy to replace, just rock the engine forward like you mentioned. With the engine mount dog bones taken off, the e-brake off, and the car in park, push the car forward and back. That will make the engine rock forwards and backwards, and when it jumps forward, slam the e-brake. That will hold the engine forward without using straps.

The hardest part is taking out the two lower bolts that hold the bracket and valve to the engine, they're against the firewall basically. Then two nuts that hold the metal tubing which are down in the same spot, but are actually visible.

To find the rear bolts for the bracket, I just follow the bracket down to the end and feel for them, they actually hold both of the brackets on the rear of the engine.

That's basically it, the rest you'll figure out as soon as you see it. I've had mine off a bunch of times, but now I'm getting that code too. I hate how vague the code is, basically anything can be wrong in the system. I'm hoping the exhaust leak in my downpipe gasket is the cause. I'm pretty sure it's just the pump, relay,and check valve on the 04+.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Nik,

I figured it was going to be one of those 6 bolts that you can only get 1/8 of a turn of the wrench at a time jobs. No really hard, just a pain.

I'm going to attempt the swap out this afternoon. I'll try to repost how it goes and any info that can help future forum members out.

After doing more digging into the part swap, I found an older post on this forum that has great info, http://www.grandprixforums.net/air-injection-check-valve-replacement-57088.html#post751569 . Should help out anybody in the future.
 
That's a good find right there, if my exhaust leak isn't the problem I'll have to look into that thread :D

It's extremely helpful to have a ratcheting box wrench for those bolts, but I don't have one in whatever size those bolts are, so I'm always stuck doing the 1/8th turns as well.

I may actually open my valve up while it's off the car (in the middle of a LIM gasket replacement), it's just a few torx screws. I've heard the valve can get rusty and seized due to moisture, causing water to flood the air pump like yours was, so I'll spray some wd-40 in there and push the valve back and forth to make sure it moves freely. Luckily I still hear the pump activate on cold starts.
 
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