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Sadness today....but nerding jacked my thread so its better.

WarStryker13

I break things.
Brief back story: replaced ball joints, tie rod ends, and stabilizer links, learned some very upsetting news. German mechanics from before I got this car had replaced hubs without new spindle nuts. Impact wrench... -_- so I replaced them myself, new spindle nuts this time, and I'm still very upset. The wheel bearings are wearing out again after 2 months. On top of the boot that decided to separate itself from the outer joint... So is there a bigger problem causing things to break or did I forget something important? The threads looked to be fine, uniform and clean all the way to the splines. But hubs are expensive to replace every time I change the oil... So I need some advice.
 
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Re: Sadness today....

Brief back story: replaced ball joints, tie rod ends, and stabilizer links, learned some very upsetting news. German mechanics from before I got this car had replaced hubs without new spindle nuts. Impact wrench... -_- so I replaced them myself, new spindle nuts this time, and I'm still very upset. The wheel bearings are wearing out again after 2 months. On top of the boot that decided to separate itself from the outer joint... So is there a bigger problem causing things to break or did I forget something important? The threads looked to be fine, uniform and clean all the way to the splines. But hubs are expensive to replace every time I change the oil... So I need some advice.

Here's a very good question. What brand are you using?
 
Re: Sadness today....

and why are you buying new axle nuts? ive never replaced them, been through 2 sets of front hubs so far, thanks 3 year warranty.
 
Re: Sadness today....

Spindle nuts??

Are you talking about the 3 long bolts that run through the back of the knuckle into the beraing ears to hold it tight against the knuckle??

I never replace those and those do no harm when not replaced, sounds like you got crappy bearings if they go bad that quickly.
 


Re: Sadness today....

no he is talking about the spindle nut, which goes on the the cv axle. they always come with new ones so you can replace them, but its not always necessary
 
Re: Sadness today....

most of us will only use moog, tmken, or skf, all of these have a 3 year warranty. and cost like a 100 a pop.

go to advance auto on line, add a discount code and get money off.
 
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brand name wasn't as important as getting to work without losing a wheel...but "Value Pro" sounds legit, right? lol

THERE is your problem, Using cheap ass brands like that are going to fail very quickly. When it comes to hubs, choose Timken, SKF, or Moog. Timken is very popular on this site and considered the best in bearings/hubs. I personally have run SKF and like them. SKF has an X-tracker ball bearing design which is nice
 
Re: Sadness today....

no he is talking about the spindle nut, which goes on the the cv axle. they always come with new ones so you can replace them, but its not always necessary

and not these... :( but I doubt impact wrenches are good for spindle nuts that rely on the strength of the material and torque to hold themselves on............ :P
 


Re: Sadness today....

brand name wasn't as important as getting to work without losing a wheel...but "Value Pro" sounds legit, right? lol

THERE is your problem, Using cheap ass brands like that are going to fail very quickly. When it comes to hubs, choose Timken, SKF, or Moog. Timken is very popular on this site and considered the best in bearings/hubs. I personally have run SKF and like them. SKF has an X-tracker ball bearing design which is nice. I hate Moog for valid reasons that I don't care to list because some members will probably get butthurt over but moog is ranked 3rd in my book because I would use it over cheapo brands

Edit: sorry for the re-post lol
 
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you torque them nuts to 118 fp, and never look back. air gun just zaps them on, no real harm as a lot of guys here use air guns.

cheap bearings was your issue. hell even the good name brand ones fail. why im on the second set of hubs my self.

oh, its a gp, get used to changing hubs, its part of ownership.
 
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Im in the zip it on with an impact club, but i have a crappy impact so i also had to use a breaker bar to tighten it more.

Sent from BFE
 
Re: Sadness today....

you torque them nuts to 118 fp, and never look back. air gun just zaps them on, no real harm as a lot of guys here use air guns.

cheap bearings was your issue. hell even the good name brand ones fail. why im on the second set of hubs my self.

oh, its a gp, get used to changing hubs, its part of ownership.

Cuz ur running moogs thats why lol.

When you purchase SKF hubs, there will be a notice in the box that says to torque the axle nut to 151 ft lbs which is OE spec
 
Re: Sadness today....

and I've got to wait for the moneys that I'm owed in order to order stuff that I hope somewhere will ship overseas without charging an arm, and a leg, and a left nut. But beyond that, I have to winterize my car for Alaska within the next year...so would it be better to just go all out now with the suspension upgrades/mods/things I can do that make things better? or just fix what is wrong now and upgrade things as I go along?
 


Re: Sadness today....

Cuz ur running moogs thats why lol.

When you purchase SKF hubs, there will be a notice in the box that says to torque the axle nut to 151 ft lbs which is OE spec

OE spec is 118 ft lbs. GM and mitchel and all data all say 118 ft lbs.

Only 1 year had something different even though the axle, hub, nut, knuckle never changed and that was 2001 where it says 159 ft lbs. But it's wrong, I even asked GM about it and they didnt know why it was changed because the very next year it was 118 ft lbs again.
 
Re: Sadness today....

and I've got to wait for the moneys that I'm owed in order to order stuff that I hope somewhere will ship overseas without charging an arm, and a leg, and a left nut. But beyond that, I have to winterize my car for Alaska within the next year...so would it be better to just go all out now with the suspension upgrades/mods/things I can do that make things better? or just fix what is wrong now and upgrade things as I go along?

FIX NOW then upgrade later. Also hubs are something you should try to buy local to make warranties much easier. Let's say you purchase a quality hub online and for whatever reason it fails under warranty, you need to take it off and pay shipping and wait for the new one to come in. While waiting for the new one, you won't be able to drive your car
 
Re: Sadness today....

OE spec is 118 ft lbs. GM and mitchel and all data all say 118 ft lbs.

Only 1 year had something different even though the axle, hub, nut, knuckle never changed and that was 2001 where it says 159 ft lbs. But it's wrong, I even asked GM about it and they didnt know why it was changed because the very next year it was 118 ft lbs again.

its a typo lol had that once on a truck it said it chould tow 13,500 lbs but it would have tore the truck in 2 so they were forced to do a recall on it.
 
Re: Sadness today....

OE spec is 118 ft lbs. GM and mitchel and all data all say 118 ft lbs.

Only 1 year had something different even though the axle, hub, nut, knuckle never changed and that was 2001 where it says 159 ft lbs. But it's wrong, I even asked GM about it and they didnt know why it was changed because the very next year it was 118 ft lbs again.

Alldata says 151 ft lbs and SKF asks for that amount for THEIR bearings. Also if you purchase a SKF hub at NAPA, the receipt tells you to torque 151 ft lbs. I would just go with what the manufacturer of the hub says. I believe Moog asks for 118 ft lbs but that what Moog suggests for THEIR part. I'll get my scanner hooked up 2morrow and scan my receipt and upload it.


I'm surprised you use mitchell on demand FFDP. I ****ing hate that software
 
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