s/c and thorttle body paint
- Thread starter Matt Palm
- Start date
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
me too, but add a car quest, a strauss auto, a pep boys, 3 auto zone's, 2 advance, and another 3 napa's to boot.
these are all with in 10 miles or less of me, 3 of them are less then 2 miles. and theres more smaller mom and pop stores, but are becoming harder and harder to find. as they all get bought up by one of the big boys.
these are all with in 10 miles or less of me, 3 of them are less then 2 miles. and theres more smaller mom and pop stores, but are becoming harder and harder to find. as they all get bought up by one of the big boys.
coolone
New member
http://www.grandprixforums.net/my-baby-2000-silver-mist-gtp-57086.html#post718730
I lost a big reply so have to type again, will shorten it this time
Look at the pics for the finished product there but know that it can be any color you chose.
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First things though, there is a reason for TORQUE spec's... So that all the bolts can be tightened consistently to the same tightness... SNUG or TIGHT can mean different things to different people/hands and unless you are familiar with taking the top end off and experienced with the feel, I would suggest the torque wrench as its not a big deal to use.
The prep is easy, just simple green bath the manifold, valve covers and I did the overflow bottle too, overnight soak. Then I scrubbed the SC with SG that was sprayed on with a small brush to get in all the crevices. Afterwards they all got sprayed freely with brake cleaner until completely clean. There's no reason to sand anything and I don't see why that would be done. If you go that route you might as well just get the SC polished, lol.
Primer is not needed if everything is cleaned properly and might even give too heavy a coat for paint, some even clear coat after painting and I don't like that either... The wrong clear coat will turn color from the heat over time. Just FYI.
I cleaned and painted the fuel rails as well (all high heat ceramic paint).
Personally, if you are going to do all this have you considered porting the SC & TB while you have them off?
I would...
Anyways, good luck!
I lost a big reply so have to type again, will shorten it this time
Look at the pics for the finished product there but know that it can be any color you chose.
-----------------------------------------
First things though, there is a reason for TORQUE spec's... So that all the bolts can be tightened consistently to the same tightness... SNUG or TIGHT can mean different things to different people/hands and unless you are familiar with taking the top end off and experienced with the feel, I would suggest the torque wrench as its not a big deal to use.
The prep is easy, just simple green bath the manifold, valve covers and I did the overflow bottle too, overnight soak. Then I scrubbed the SC with SG that was sprayed on with a small brush to get in all the crevices. Afterwards they all got sprayed freely with brake cleaner until completely clean. There's no reason to sand anything and I don't see why that would be done. If you go that route you might as well just get the SC polished, lol.
Primer is not needed if everything is cleaned properly and might even give too heavy a coat for paint, some even clear coat after painting and I don't like that either... The wrong clear coat will turn color from the heat over time. Just FYI.
I cleaned and painted the fuel rails as well (all high heat ceramic paint).
Personally, if you are going to do all this have you considered porting the SC & TB while you have them off?
I would...
Anyways, good luck!
Matt Palm
WHERES THE LAMB SAUCE?!?!
yeha im not gonna have it ported even though i thought about it. and yeah i looked at your thread last night i really like the way it looks. i got black and gun metal grey. i literally drove 40 miles looking for silver or white and i couldnt find any so this will do. also i have a parts cleaner bin im gonna put everything in and let it soak for awhile. i decided to change my plug and wires while i had things torn apart. and my supercharger kinda fell off.
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
take those platinum plugs back to the store, asap, and get some iridium plugs.
Scottydoggs
Killa Bee
i got autolight iridium plugs myself.
the plats will misfire all over the place.
the plats will misfire all over the place.
TLSheff
New member
I like my NGK TR55s but they are more expensive than the Autolights.
I only suggested the sanding because I used cleaner on my valve covers and it still peeled. With the high temp enamel and clear, but the supercharger is still fine, just oil soaked valve covers suck. Without proper prep they will crack and peel. Supercharger is good to just clean and spray tho.
I only suggested the sanding because I used cleaner on my valve covers and it still peeled. With the high temp enamel and clear, but the supercharger is still fine, just oil soaked valve covers suck. Without proper prep they will crack and peel. Supercharger is good to just clean and spray tho.
coolone
New member
Maybe I was lucky then the valve covers had some oil but not too bad. I just think the sanding might make things worse as some people (like me) would keep sanding thinking it looks better and then better still and then crap... What did I do... Lmao!
OP, don't soak the SC itself... The grease bearings won't like that much... I also took all the throttle plates, brackets and all off. A little more work but better for paint coverage. I think I might have pics of the things all taped up, if I find them I'll post. Again, can't stress the LIGHT touch when applying paint, you'll see when you first spray... But you can apply again pretty fast, I waited 15-20 mins between coats, did 2 and then next day light spot spraying on any missed spots or nooks, let it dry, then final coat...
I think snout is hard to clean, but I had axle boot throwing grease on it so maybe yours will be easier.
Fuel rails were tricky as the tight inside/underneath spots were a little hard to get enough paint on to cover without spraying too much that'll drip. So I would recommend doing those first with just spot sprays, quick little spurts, let dry then cover the rest.
OP, don't soak the SC itself... The grease bearings won't like that much... I also took all the throttle plates, brackets and all off. A little more work but better for paint coverage. I think I might have pics of the things all taped up, if I find them I'll post. Again, can't stress the LIGHT touch when applying paint, you'll see when you first spray... But you can apply again pretty fast, I waited 15-20 mins between coats, did 2 and then next day light spot spraying on any missed spots or nooks, let it dry, then final coat...
I think snout is hard to clean, but I had axle boot throwing grease on it so maybe yours will be easier.
Fuel rails were tricky as the tight inside/underneath spots were a little hard to get enough paint on to cover without spraying too much that'll drip. So I would recommend doing those first with just spot sprays, quick little spurts, let dry then cover the rest.
