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RWD l67 guy

G

Gutless

New member
New here but not to the interwebs. Traffic died out of a few other sites so there was no ideas exchange anymore. So now im here! Haha!

Have a 97 firebird that has a l67 swapped in. 97 l67 out of a GTP. Rebuilt long block (one i bought originally ovaled the front main and ate the oil pump) S1X, LS6 springs, gen 3, lightly ported heads, 60lb's, NA 3800 ecm so its kinda funky running the 2 BAR GTP map. 4l60e, alum driveshaft, posi 3.42, 3440 lbs.

Did the L67 swap over the summer when I was 17. Been my winter beater/summer crasher since until last winter when I replaced it with something that has 4wd. Car has a lot of rust, has been wrecked a few times (only once my fault) runs mid-high 13's on 87 octane. Shooting for 12's on corn. Drivetrain is going in a Vega/Astre wagon or a lowered 2dr jeep cherokee when the chassis either rusts out or gets wrecked or something.



 


I'd probably rather see the Cutlass! Naw, that Firebird is cool as can be. I had not seen the L67 set up in one, thanks for posting. What a tight fit!
 
did you build the adapter for the intake to bend around from the supercharger to the throttle body? looks pretty fun, how has the 4L60 held up?
 
Yeah, I built the U bend. Its 3" Sch. 40 90's off Mcmaster welded to the back. I did the machining and cutting. Had a former coworker of my dad weld it. Its sad, the welds are beautiful and you cant see them. Tucked under the cowl.



60e has held up fine. Still stock with 160K miles. Car has made 320ftlbs for like 3 years. Bumped the boost 6PSI and went to corn and went to 420ftlbs according to hptuners so im a little worried now.

Had the cutlass since I was 15. Has a drawthrough 3.8 turbo carbed setup out of a 80 Turbo Monte. I painted the car at the same time I was doing the l67 swap in the fireturd.



I actually bought all the GN conversion stuff last week. I'm a forced air V6 guy!
 
I wouldnt really trust what HP Tuners says for the calculated torque, it's kinda just guessing and uses that number if TM is needed.

But I bet it's making 300-350 ft lbs of torque to wheels with running E85 and the boost you are running.

The 4L60e can handle that pretty good though it's still weak. What is saving you in the way it gives the power and fact that the car is really light compared to others vehicles that run the 4L60e. In a truck it would likely be slipping by now.
 
that fab work does look really good. did you have to use the fuel logs, or would the rails have fit? I bet spark plugs are fun to change on that thing. was the intake fab work the only custom fab work done for the L67 swap? what size pulley are you running?
 


nice work. looks like the ac is hooked up in the bird too. two thumbs up!

your welder rules too, shame you dont get to see it.
 
All my stuff has AC. Whats the sense in having a fun car if your going to sweat!

My 04 5.3 rainier has a (probably factory) 60e with 190K miles. It shifts funky and doesnt stick in gear firmly. Probably going out. Yeah, the light weight is whats saving it.

I machined up a semi-returnless style log setup. The factory rails were heavily modified in the first iteration of the build. Cleaned it up a lot with these. I machined them up. There is a vette regulator/filter in place of the factory filter. Single line from there to the rails.




The thermostat neck also had to be modified, along with the throttle body, intake tube, and cutting some of the motor mount off the coil bracket.

Oil is filled in the factory front cover like factory but I turned the filler neck 90 degrees and use a funnel with a hose.

Corvair, i guess that would be interesting, never looked into them.

This is the worst part of the swap. Basically have to do this to change the thermostat. Broke a valvespring last fall. Had to do this to fix it.
 


I guess I could make them. They are fuel rail extrusion, some old stop sign for brackets, and some tapping, drilling and cutting.

The aeromotive ones are $250. Would $125-$150 be an attractive price for just the rails?
 
i think those would sell. if they were powered coated or something that would also help the looks. (or polished) paint works, but you know gas and paint hate each other lol


i love you fab guys. damn artists really all of you. keep it up.:th_biggrin2:
 
they would sell like crazy if you did a return style and they didn't ever leak, especially for that price. zzp sells modified fuel rails to clear the supercharger housing when people add intercoolers for 110 but they have poor quality control sometimes. the fuel logs they sell are 400 for a series 2 return style.
 


I'm was going to say I was surpised that a lifter hasnt **** the bed yet in the 5.3 rainer, those early DoD motors are so problem prone lol but your buick was like the only model to not get the DoD system.
 
I would probably just make a universal style rail in -6 (-8 is someone really wanted them). The reason I had to go returnless was to keep it clean and I didnt have the clearance behind the rail since the U bend was so tight. There really shouldnt be any difference between a return or returnless just fittings and hoses. A RWD car feeds from the blower snout side where a FWD would feed from the TB side. Line going to a T, crossover to the other rail. Simple brackets to attach and thats about it.

Sucky part is I'm a senior engineering student so I really dont have tons of time. My room mate actually has a stock GTP with a blown engine so I have the car to jig it off.

This is how the fuel delivery WAS set up just to get the car running. Using stock L67 rails modified with brazed on fittings.



This is my other project i have stashed at home. 6.0 with a GT500 M122. Was going to design and fab an intake and drive system.


Other fab stuff ive done
Stainless downpipe for my cutlass


Designed and CNCed a 7" propellor injection mold for a class last semester


Windows, doors, dash for the drag cutlass


9" made from a towncar with astrovan disks for same drag cutlass


Dad helps a lot too! Kinda why we end up with wierd, slow stuff instead of fast, catlog stuff.
 
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