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rod knock or something else?

bluegtp91 said:
Well...in order to swap the flexplate either the transmission has to be dropped out...or the motor has to come out the top...so if your replacing the flexplate...you might as well swap the bottom end...and get headers...and cam it...and put a supercharger on it LOL
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:th_laugh-pointup:What about the paint and the interior? Should I do anything there since the flex plate is bad? Of course that is just going to make the siding on my house look bad and you can't side the house and leave the shingles like that. LOL
 


It's a Grand Prix...just drives it until it assplodes again...and fix it for like 30 bucks...ha.

Actually...For a flexplate replacement...techinically all you would need is new TTY Bolts...because I've tried reusing the factory bolts...and OMG, yeah, doesn't work there LOL
 
mainjet said:
Yes LOL. second to the last line of my OP. I checked it and it's clean. it was a little bit overful so I drained some out. Now it's right on the button.:th_thumbsup-wink:
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Why was it overfull? I have a feeling coolant is getting in it and creating the overfull condition. This is of course assuming you do the oil changes and know for a fact you did not overfill it last time.
 
During an oil change some people may forget to add oil before they start it. The damage done is not noticed right away. As time passes the rod slowly begins to beat itself to death. My brother-in-law's firebird 3800 started knocking just after he passed someone, and it was well maintained. It had about 120K on it.
 
No I just got the car Saturday so I never have changed the oil in the car. All the other oil changes were done by shops or the dealer. It was not over by much it was a little less than a half quart over.

I don't see any coolant in the oil.
 
wow that motor sounds horrible....just like mine before i replaced the engine in my 01 gtp. guess what i think i may have knock again. :th_crying1: its a 99 gtp motor with 45000miles on it. you cant hear it from on top of the motor....but when you crawl under the motor compartment you can. its not realy a faint noise, noticable up closer but is does come n go in like a wave patern. i noticed this when i was replacing my resonator yesterday. i dont gain oil on my dipstick but rather loose it....not fast but enough to have to add alil before next oil change, which i do myself on time, every time(oil pan is always wet so i imagine thats where its going). it doesnt smoke out the tail pipes but rather alil steam on start up which is most likely normal. i havent messed with the antifreeze....its orange and near the bottom of the resivor(no indicator as where the fluid should be either) but my car doesnt have cooling problems. and i always use 93 octane fuel with lukus fuel stabalizer. what do you guys think...is my motor gonna go soon....again?
 


I found an engine for my car. It's out of a 99 Grand prix and it's the supercharged 3800. It hass 122,000 on it. I am going to check it out at the salvage yard this weekend. Is there anything that I need to check to be sure that it is a direct replacement other than what I already metioned about it? The yard says that the motor has been tested.

Before I put it in I am going to change the spark plugs. LIM gasket, valve cover gaskets/grommets, oil pan gasket and injector O-rings. Also the SC gasket and the throttle body gasket. Is there anything else that I should be changing as a general rule of thumb before dropping it in?

Lastly, should I prep the engine in any way to lubricate it since it has been sitting on the shelf?
 
I would change EVERY gasket. Seriously.

You don't know the kind of shape that motor was in or how it was treated before you got it.
 
Seems like is not good enough. Unless you want to possibly take the engine apart to replace the head gaskets. More work and money. Consider it cheap insurance to replace the head gaskets now. That way, it gives you an excuse to gasket match, port and polish. :D
 
Okay so it's a rod knock for sure, the motor locked up yesterday LOL.

So I am preparing to pull the old motor. Couple of questions that I cannot find in search-

1. I assume that the crossover pipe has to come off to get to the trans bolts?
2. I saw that one guy likes to take the alternator and bracket off as well as the oil filter. I guess that the filter holder can stay on? Can the Supercharger stay on?
3. It was said to take off the TB - Yes? Necessary?
 


Thanks for all the help guys. she lives again!

Got the engine in and it started right up and idles smooth.

Now I need to fix the tail pipe at the "Y" because that is broke and then off to get emmisions tested. Once that is complete I can get the plates.

I got all the gaskets changed and replaced the lower motor mount and vacuum lines. Cleaned the throttle body, replaced the SC oil, changed the plugs and wires and filters. I also got all the old dexcool out and took the radiator to a shop to be flushed so I could put some regular "any color" coolant in. I replaced the radiator hoses, cap and thermostat.

Hope it was all worth ot and it stays running good for a while.Thanks again for all the suggestions and helps along the way. This has been a great site.
 
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