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RJ's Dirt Track GP

Jkotsi

New member
Ray and I (Jim) have started prepping a GP for some fun on a 1/3 mile dirt oval for next summer. This will be a real budget build.

The GP has a solid body, it's a 2004. Engine has a few issues, leaking water pump, 3/6 coil and possible power steering pump leak. Sounds good, starts easily, stopping...well brakes will need some work.

Partially stripped the interior. Getting ready to change water pump, pull AC, flush system and a 180 degree stat.

I'll post some pics shortly

Cheers Jim
 


Ray and I (Jim) have started prepping a GP for some fun on a 1/3 mile dirt oval for next summer. This will be a real budget build.

The GP has a solid body, it's a 2004. Engine has a few issues, leaking water pump, 3/6 coil and possible power steering pump leak. Sounds good, starts easily, stopping...well brakes will need some work.

Partially stripped the interior. Getting ready to change water pump, pull AC, flush system and a 180 degree stat.

I'll post some pics shortly

Cheers Jim

Be sure to use thread sealant with PTFE on a few of the bolts for the water pump.
 
This is where it begins,
image_zpszygndtpq.jpg



The replacement pulley for the AC


image_zpsyt70y4dv.jpg


Started stripping out the interior
image_zpsjtq3az6c.jpg
 
Looking a replacing the pulleys on the water pump and alternator to oversized pulleys any recommendations?
 


If you have dark leather door panels I need the back passenger one my dog put it's nail through it in one spot

Sent from my SM-S820L using Tapatalk
 
nitrous

get the mustang ~70mm ish nitrous tb plate kit from C list fer cheap, blockoff tb coolant passages at LIM, rig between tb and sc with all thread and rtv and even tightening.

75 shot wet and you can tap into the rails for the fuel solenoid.

remove crossover pipe, cutoff rear portion and weld flat cap, install to block rear manifold crossover opening.
take remainder of x over, turn 90* and run it straight up through the hood so you can see the exhaust temps clearly.
this of course can also be done on the rear manifold for 3 separate exhaust pipes, or with the dp opening blocked, just two. its easy to pull a couple crossover from the junkyard to hack and fit for some sweet dual exhaust through hood dumps for the ability to see how the motor likes the nitrous, I have like 16 in my back yard scrap pile...

do yourself a favor and lock the bbv closed, your going to want a more static power output vs the fairly slow reacting vac can muddling things up as you go in and out of throttle, your not giving a **** about fuel economy here....

get a dual bottle bracket, put 20lb extinguisher in empty spot

profit???
 
iirc you can pull the parking brake cover off and if you look at the mech there's a spring and cross pin that you can grind off to remove the latching mech for a manual dumb pedal

if you see hoe the pawl locks on the initial apply youll see the parts you need to hack out, ive seen guys just hold it released with a screwdriver and then gobbing a weld on the side of the pawl and the side plate.

pick yer poison
 


If your selling the leather front seats let me know, I'm located about 3 hours from you and if the price is right I can come and get them?
 
Ohara72 PM sent, I'm in Engalnd until the 18th.

Yes the car is NA, mods are very limited, unfortunately no nitros. Removing the Cat and resonator should be ok but need to keep the mufflers. I was thinking a dual exhaust 6 into 2. Possibly with a cross over tube.

Ray swapped the water pump, power steering is out and going back in this week.

Ill be be starting the roll cage by the end of the month, thanks Dezebe1.
 
I like the parking brake mod but the rules have the parking brake completely removed. Setting the car to over steer will take some effort.

Looking for 17/18" steels for the RH side with a greater offset than the left.
 
the mustang rims are a little more pokey, i dont think the jeep/chrysler stuff will give you much more over that, you may have to use spacers if your not trying to be too obvious....or older ford RWD rims.

get a used line lock and put it inline with the RF brakes on a trigger button to lock it out of the circuit so you can apply the LF and both rears using the pedal to initiate oversteer. on the upside it also helps turn you in if you dont go nuts with the pedal stab
 


I wanna see this - any videos?

nitrous


75 shot wet and you can tap into the rails for the fuel solenoid.

remove crossover pipe, cutoff rear portion and weld flat cap, install to block rear manifold crossover opening.
take remainder of x over, turn 90* and run it straight up through the hood so you can see the exhaust temps clearly.
this of course can also be done on the rear manifold for 3 separate exhaust pipes, or with the dp opening blocked, just two. its easy to pull a couple crossover from the junkyard to hack and fit for some sweet dual exhaust through hood dumps for the ability to see how the motor likes the nitrous, I have like 16 in my back yard scrap pile...


profit???
 
It's been a while but finally got the car on the track Aug 6th.

http://rs38.pbsrc.com/albums/e114/jkotsi/Mobile Uploads/image_zpsiqk5jksq.jpg?w=480&h=480&fit=clip

Being my first race I was gridded at the back in the heat and final, finished 8 out of 10 and 10 out of 16 in a 1/3 mile dirt track at Brighton Speedway. Happy with the result and the car.

The only mod was STB and slight wheel size changes. A 195/55/16 LR and a 215/55/17 RF the other were stock 225/60/16's

the power steering line started leaking a lot so it's being replaced with a short line from pump to steering rack. Since the front sway bar needed to come out it will stay out for the next race Sat. If the camber bolts arrive we will try and adjustment as well as two different tires.

My GoPro has been packed away to get ready for a move, I'll try and have it ready for the next outing.

Cheers Jim
 
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