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Require Assistance hooking Supercharger back up 98 GTP

C

csloone

New member
The following is in regards to a 1998 Grand Prix GTP with Supercharger - all stock from the factory as purchased (no mods). I had some noises coming from it before a long trip and my mechanic told me it might just be best to unhook it for the time being...I didn't have the money to diagnose and repair at that time...plus I did get a little better gas mileage for my trip too!

Fast forward ~4 years and I am now getting around to hooking it back up. I am pretty handy, but this is my first time delving deeper into the automotive realm. I have a few questions but am definitely new to all of this so please bear with me :)

1. Are there any concerns I should have when hooking the unit back up after a long period of inactivity? (things to lube, tighten, test, etc)
2. I am unsure what was "unhooked" (I was told the belt was removed and it was disconnected from the "computer") what else needs to be plugged in besides replacing the belt, if anything?
- I have looked for electrical/wired connections that are not plugged into anything, but I cannot find any such connections.
3. If I make the assumption that all "connections are in place", and I hook the belt back up right now....start the car...if my sensors and other connections actually are NOT plugged in, will it damage the supercharger or car in any way?

My plan is to check that the supercharger is still in working order, and then replace the nose/snout, coupler, and oil. Thoughts? Suggestions? Answers to the above? I appreciate any input you experts can provide!
 


My apologies if my above post was confusing.

The mechanic "unhooked" it all, not ME. I am trying to hook it back up.
 
Just put the belt back on.

Its impossible to disconnect the Supercharger from the computer system because its a piece of metal.

I just hope you never beat on the car with no belt on it for 4 years, that car was hurting big time.

If the supercharger makes a rattle sound at idle and sounds kinda funny, thats the coupler going bad and does nothing to hurt the car in anyway.
 
What were the noises? Mechanics used to misdiagnose rattling in the SC as bad bearings all the time. I was advised (by a mechanic) to stay away from supercharged GP's because of poor bearings in the SC and would cost $1500 to replace it. Turns out, it takes a $35 coupler and 30 minutes of your time
 


As I remember it - it was a rattling sound and, yep, they told me it'd be like 1300 bucks to replace it with a refurb. After lots of research, I came to the same conclusion Keith and FFDP, probably the coupler. I was gonna replace the snout as well...or is that a bad idea?

So...according to FFDP (nice name by the way!), I can just put the belt back on and rock n' roll? If so, that's frickin awesome. I'm just confused as to why the mechanic would have told me he "unhooked it from the computer" then... is that just to sound like it was a HARD process so I'd be more appreciative and/or pay more?

I'm still a n00b for sure...aren't there sensors or anything that are connected to the SC (like on a vacuum hose or similar)? Apologies if that is a stupid question.
 
replace coupler, dont replace snout, be sure to fill it back up with fluid and to make sure none of the fluid seeps between the snout and case...enough said
 
Roger that - coupler, fluids and anaerobic sealer and NO snout.

dsmuts - if the bbv were unhooked, what should I be looking for exactly?
 


The bbv solenoid It's on the front of the sc by the tb. It's a little piece that has a vacuum line on it from the fuel pressure reg.
 
I wanted to at least close this thread out - replaced the belt on the 'ol S/C and she works like a charm. Now to take her apart and swap the coupler! Thank you all for your help
 
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