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Replacing the lifters on a 2006 motor with 268K on it ?

W

wb22rules

New member
I have what I believe to be a lifter ticking that has over the last few weeks gone from subtle and intermittent to pronounced and fairly steady and now it sounds like two of them are doing it. Since the noise became less than subtle I have stopped driving it for now. The motor has 7000+ hours and 268K miles on it but other than this issue runs great. It has low oil consumption (less than a quart over a 5K change interval with synthetic) and I have replaced everything on the left side of the motor that spins including the timing chain, gears and adjuster (had to take the cover off to fix a leak and figured what the hell while I was in there) and would like to keep it going. Can I just replace these lifters if the cam still looks good and figure on going about my business or is there a more that should be done in order to trust that the engine is good to go again? The pushrods aren't that much and could be replaced as well. I believe the rocker arm bolts have to be replaced once they are removed. So I am thinking about getting lifters, pushrods and bolts for it and keeping her going as I really like the car. I would hate to drop a bunch of money into it (it needs tires as well which I will get if the motor sounds healthy again) only to find out I have another significant issue just waiting to appear. The only things I think I should have to expect soon would be the coils at some point, or the valve springs, which if I keep the revs down I am hoping to avoid. I can live with those pending problems but don't want to have to get into anything requiring pulling the motor apart significantly.
I guess I will need valve covers gaskets. Do I need to pull the LIM or can the lifters be replaced by just pulling the covers and the rocker arms? \Thanks in advance for your thoughts/advice.
 


Wouldn't hurt to just give the whole motor a freshening up. Im about to hit 200k and I'm looking at getting brand new heads and I figure since I'm in it I'll do new lifters and rods and every gasket from block up is being replaced along with oil pan gasket. It's getting new timing chain and water pump (going out again) that way I'm good for another 200k and in that time I'll probably be building entire new motor for it. Getting a gtp trans built as well here soon. That's what I'm doing.
 
the rear cover gasket leaking is a possibility but at that mileage id guess you no longer have dex cool/organic acid coolant so you should be able to see a leak.

yes you can easily replace just the lifters n pushrods. id suggest the pushrods as the rocker end wears quite a bit and shortens the overall length that combined with rwornout plungers means you have slack inthe valvetrain.
 
In looking around I see I can get lifters from 5 bucks and up price wise, none of the manufacturer names sound familiar so I am not sure which ones to get. Kind of afraid to go cheapest but i don't even recognize the manufacturer of the ones that cost twice as much.
From Auto Parts Warehouse listed as a cam follower - "Mahle" for $16.95 each
From RockAuto listed as a valve lifter - ENGINETECH for $4.94
From RockAuto listed as a valve lifter - DNJ ENGINE COMPONENTS for $6.63
From RockAuto listed as a valve lifter - SEALED POWER for $9.sumthin
From Autozone listed as a valve lifter - Melling for $10.99

Anyone here a fan or a hater of any these brands and care to share why?

Thanks
 


wb22rules said:
In looking around I see I can get lifters from 5 bucks and up price wise, none of the manufacturer names sound familiar so I am not sure which ones to get. Kind of afraid to go cheapest but i don't even recognize the manufacturer of the ones that cost twice as much.
From Auto Parts Warehouse listed as a cam follower - "Mahle" for $16.95 each
From RockAuto listed as a valve lifter - ENGINETECH for $4.94
From RockAuto listed as a valve lifter - DNJ ENGINE COMPONENTS for $6.63
From RockAuto listed as a valve lifter - SEALED POWER for $9.sumthin
From Autozone listed as a valve lifter - Melling for $10.99

Anyone here a fan or a hater of any these brands and care to share why?

Thanks
Click to expand...


Just go with factory GM LS7 lifters. You can get a set on eBay for cheap. I paid $85 with free shipping. Search PN: 12499225. They come in sets of 16, but are much cheaper than buying individually and you have 4 extras if you ever need them.
 
In the interest of both time and money would be worth it to try to clean them without removal to see if that would get them flowing oil freely and moving again and possibly avoid/postpone replacement for a bit?
It seems removing the rockers and spraying B12 Chemtool down the push rods has quieted them for quite a few people. Of course changing the oil thereafter to remove the Chemtool.
Having to pull the LIM means the task is going to take more time and gaskets than I thought to do correctly, I was hoping that wouldn't have to be removed.
I ask because if go after replacing them I wont be able to get the tires (about to fly off the car, literally afraid to go over 35mph with them atm) this things needs for a while after the cost of the lifter replacement done right and I won't have the car available for some time as there are other tasks ahead of this car on my must do list at the moment. Its not my DD, but my other alternative to my work car, that I can't drive for errands and such on the weekends, is a 25 yr old truck with a straight six that drinks gas at a high rate.

Thanks for the advise so far, I appreciate it.
 
268k miles... Sorry to break this to you, but **** is worn... Could be lobes, could be tired lifters, worn push rods, etc.

It's real simple... If bottom end is good, a small investment on top is worthwhile. I may be crazy, but replacing cam, lifters, pushrods, lim gaskets, VC gaskets and rockers is a plus in my book, lol... If you do it yourself, take an afternoon, it won't cost much at all either.

good luck!
 


So I have a 205k on mine and it runs fine. I've replaced everything on the left side that spins aside from the P/S pump. I've done LIM overhaul all the typical sensors that go bad and all the ignition components, Transgo kit, etc. As I creep up in mileage what things should I be looking out for. I know some people do preventative items like changing heads, but if there is no loud or growing lifter tick or other obvious abnormal noises can I assume just to keep driving it. I don't believe I have bad oil consumption and certainly want to keep going as long as I can. Should I do a compression test to see where I'm at now.
 
I agree on the 268K it owes me nothing at this point, but with the oil consumption low as it is I think with some care I can limp into 300K ville if I am lucky. As you said doing the whole valve train would be great, but to be honest I think I should not invest too much into this motor until it gets pulled and has a proper refreshing. I can deal with a coil or two, but if it breaks a valve spring I will just decide it is time. And I am on the fence about the lifters as the cost is bordering what I think might be too much. Tough call for me.

I want to replace them all along with the rods and rocker bolts, but I think I will have to try to shake the sticky ones free with cleaning and see what happens. I know whatever I use to break stuff loose has the drawback of breaking something loose that then clogs a bearing journal and causes a bottom end failure, or causes some seal to degrade causing leaks or consumption, so I am kinda torn on which way to go. I have to do something as cant drive it now and don't want to get rid of it.

Decisions Decisions lol
 
Well, you wouldnt even want to remove any bolt of the bottom end. You remove one rod cap or one main cap and that motor is machine shop bound with more money out of your pocket.

Dump some trans fluid the oil and run it for a while, couple hundred miles or more and see if things clear up. Trans fluid is like Tide for motors, cleans everything.
 
If you're not going to go through do a compete lifters rods rockers springs no point at that mileage.

Sent from my SM-S820L using Tapatalk
 
Did an oil change and added one quart of tranny fluid to the oil that went back in, after 100 miles done over a few quick errands the ticking is much less pronounced. Hoping in a few more hundred it will clear up. The oil still looks new, so we will see.
Thanks for the tip ;)
 


After 150 miles of short trips for me the ticking seemed reduced. Last weekend I let my son use it to go to Charlotte and bring it back a week later. All went well going down, but on the way back he noticed a sound at idle when he got to his apartment. He brought it out and it sounds like those two lifters have collapsed, makes a knocking sound at idle now from that spot. Sounds fine over 1400 rpm, but at idle you can hear them. Guess its time to take a look and see if it appears some lifters and springs maybe could buy some more time.
 
Well I am at the point where I have to say good bye to this car, I don't want to have to get rid of it but I have two other old vehicles here that run and I don't have the room or time to do an engine swap or get into this one.
I know this thing probably has no value more than junk money (200 around here) to any one but me, but I hate to send it off to the crusher. I am now wondering if I should try to find someone looking for a parts donor car. Everything that spins on the outside of the motor has been replaced, wheel bearings were done around 220k, it has two rear tires with one trip to Charlotte on them and everything but the back light for the radio works on the inside. I would like to get a little more than junk money to fund some parts for an old Yamaha enduro I am resurrecting, about 350-400 or so would get the last batch of parts I need for that, does that sound possible or is that a reach? I am not really familiar with trying to offload a vehicle with a major motor issue.
Thanks for the opinions/advice in advance.
 
Make a separate thread in the FS section with pictures... You may find better response than posting in your unrelated thread.
 
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